Fiero spitting out COOLANT

As I said in my PM response to you, go to the Paper Based Archives, specifically Here and you should find all the info you need.

InfernoFiero wrote: ...can I get a replacement sensor from Rodney Dickmans store to fix this once and for all?

Works for me.

Patrick wrote: Dickman's 210° on and 200° off fan switch and the factory 195° thermostat.

This is based on the assumption (rightly or wrongly) that there is nothing else wrong with your Fiero.

Dawg wrote: Make sure the fan itself is ok before buying the fan switch.

Damien, I believe he said the fan works, but I'm not 100% sure!

InfernoFiero wrote: I could hear sounds from the front of the car that sounded like "WHIR WHIR WHIR", and I could instantaneously feel it was coolant related.

InfernoFiero wrote: My fan works when I put the a/c on to full blast...

I don't believe "full blast" is necessary.

So I'm curious... when your Fiero appears to be overheating, why don't you activate the rad fan by turning on the a/c then? That's not the solution to your engine cooling issues, but it should at least prevent coolant from puking out of the reservoir (unless there are additional problems).

InfernoFiero wrote: My car overheated again though today while I was doing some driving, I always check my temp gauge, and it slowly creeped above 220, and I managed to pull over at around 230...

As long as you're moving forward, no fan is required to maintain proper coolant temperatures. You still have the air deflector under the front of your Fiero, don't you?

If your Fiero is actually overheating (and it's not just a faulty gauge/sender), then either you haven't burped the cooling system properly, your water pump is faulty (loose impeller), or there's a restriction to the coolant flow (crushed pipes, plugged rad), etc.

One of our club members (who shall remain nameless) used to have a problem with his Fiero overheating worse when his fan came on, and only while he was driving. It would cool down fine when he stopped. Turns out he had wired the fan in backwards and the fan was trying to push air forward through the rad the same time as air was naturally trying to flow back through the rad. The end result was that there was no air flow through the rad (when the fan was running while the car was moving). Took him awhile to figure out the problem! True story.

InfernoFiero wrote: ..or are you just theorizing that the fan is simply not needed when going forward?

It's not just a "theory".

How'd you get it off when you burped the coolant system?

Well, it's not corroded on then. Just use something like a wet rag to give your hands a bit more grip.

You could also use a large pipe wrench, but you gotta be careful. You don't want to deform the cap or especially the neck.

Dawg wrote: Ummm, they don't just screw off.  You have to push fairly hard while turning till you get the lid past the locking tabs.

Do you actually push your thermostat cap down while turning? I never have. I'm aware of the locking tabs you're referring to, but I find if I just turn the cap without cocking it off to one side or another that it'll "click" past the tabs and continue to turn to come off.

Having said that, yes, I do push down on a rad cap when turning to remove it.