Reaper

I hope I did this right. I'm soo used to using Cliff's
website.
So a little intro. This is my 86 SE Fiero I bought
earlier this year. It has no rust on it (except the
usual..cradle. Fixing it this summer). It did however
house a/multiple families of mice and whatever else so it
has seen it's share of virtually every cleaning agent. I
had a parts car that I took most of the parts from to
restore this one. ALL the interior and the motor from the
donor (127k). Exterior is excellent. Yes it does need a
wash and a wax but I'm more concerned with making it
roadworthy first. Near the end of the day I was finally
able to start it up. Shot out alot of fluff and stuff.
Running in the high teens. around 1800 I figure. Can't
tell for sure because all the gauges aren't working.
Those mice better not be at fault.. *shakes fist* I took
a video but because it's revving so high the mic can't
capture it at all. So far what I have done to it is as
follows. Replaced the washer fluid tank, washer fluid
pump, installed 6000k HID lights, black round fog lights
(yet to be mounted), LED driving lights (Haven't made the
holes in the front clip and mounted them.), relocated the
battery, installed smoked side mount signals, new rotors
and pads, serviced the front bearings, changed the door
hinges, wired the lights into the interior (Haven't
decided/figured out where to mount the switches), rebuilt
the shifter, painted the speaker covers and door handle
covers matte white, wired in a 500k capacitor, 800W amp,
1200W 12" subwoofer, 150W 10" subwoofer, aftermarket
stereo (getting shipped to me from my uncle), new shifter
knob, cold air intake (yet to be installed), new parking
brake, cables and springs and new reverse lights (yet to
be installed, removing the rear fascia reflectors and
installing reverse lights there). The rest of the stuff
that I have done to the car was basically rip out the
rotten stuff and reinstall some good second hand parts.
Redid the vacuum lines on the motor and I think that I
have a couple wrong. It would explain my high idle
because before the swap the motor idled beautifully.
Anyways just thought I would share.
I hope you enjoy and look forward to the finished
product!

Cheers,
Cody

Alright update time. I've fixed the idle. Haven't fixed
the hiss but I'm pretty sure of what it is. I cut my
springs today (rear) the front ones are coming off
tomorrow (I guess that's today now..) and they'll be
getting some zippy disk treatment as well. Anyone have an
easy straightforward method of removing the front
springs? I'll be checking PFF in a moment. I was just
going to get a clamp do-hicky (I know the name. Just
having a brain fart) and clamp it and remove the lower
control arm and remove the spring. Might change the plan
when I actually start doing it. That's just my guess from
glancing at it on the way out. I've also started tackling
cut wires. I think I've almost got the stereo rewired
right but something isn't right. I've got power when I
turn the key but when I hit the power button..nothing.
I've also got a few extra wires left. A lime green one, a
kind of dark/turquoise blue one, 2 grey ones and a tan
(maybe paled pink?) one. Suggestions? According to my
wiring diagram I should have a working stereo but these
wires are not connected and I still have wires from my
stereo to reconnect to the harness. I noticed that on my
wiring diagram a grey wire goes up to the gauge cluster.
Could that be the reason for my speedo and tach to not
work? Personally I don't think so but it never hurts to
ask. Anyways I think that's all for now. I'll take some
pictures tomorrow once I'm done.

Cheers guys/gals,
~Cody_O~

I really do like that colour.

Ok so I changed the game plan on removing and installing
the front springs. I decided to use a floor jack, undo
the lower control arm, balljoints and lower the jack. Was
the easiest job in the world.. Getting them back in
however. That was tricky. Figured out that I had to jack
up the rear part of the A-arm, put the bolt through, jack
the front part of the A-arm and put the bolt through.
Next put the rotor back down (had it sitting on a jack)
and remount it to the lower control arm. Like I said it
was a cinch once I figured out the trick to it.
Everything leading up to it however...(!#&&)*@!!
My clutch will be done tomorrow and hopefully I get to
test drive it! Still have the axle seals, gauges, stereo
and driving lights to fix/install yet.
Sorry I didn't get a chance to pop the doors and get some
shots from inside but I'll grab them tomorrow.

Before

After







Enjoy guys/gals!
~Cody_O~

UPDATE









Took the motor off the cradle and reattached it to the
car. Going to take it to work, throw it onto the hoist
and do the shocks and struts as well as new calipers and
rotors (do they make a drilled and slotted rotor for the
Fiero?) and pads all around. Replacing all the ball
joints and mounts and bushings with poly, new radiator
(previous owner jacked up on the rad support. Thanks
PO!!! A$$hole.) and if I can afford it I'll be putting in
new sway bars front and rear. Putting in longer studs on
the rear for my other set of wheels that require spacers.
Lastly he requires an alignment because the rear is still
out by 2 inches and the front needs to be toed in cause
it's dead center. I also need to torque my clutch housing
bolts and transmission bolts. I noticed a bit of surface
rust on my gas tank as well so I am going to drop it and
see how far it goes. If I can buzz it off with a wire
wheel can I just rust coat it, paint it, undercoat it and
re-install it? Also going to undercoat it once I power
wash the bottom clean. Will jack up the rear and put it
on jack stands, clean, undercoat, then lower it back
down, jack the front and repeat the rear's procedure.
I'll be satisfied with that until I'm done rebuilding the
3800 I'll have shortly and then I will set out to prep
that for installation into Reaper.