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Suspension and Balance

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Romeo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Suspension and Balance
    Posted: 11 September 2010 at 10:06pm

Before I go in for my alignment, I had wanted to run some figures through my simulator to see if I can't make some improvements here or there. Please, feel free to respond if you have the answers to any of the following:

Weight split front-to-rear.

Centre of gravity in the y-axis (Height).

Toe spread at 100KM/H (Or if not, stock toe figure).

Stock spring rate.

Stock ride height.

 

Thanks in advance!

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Colby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 12:04am

Weight distribution I think is 43/57.
Not sure about CG, but you could approximate it by taking a height near the middle of the car but down a bit.
There are a couple different springs you may have and I don't know your car well enough... but even if you knew what it was from the factory the springs will probably be softer from the age.

I'm not too sure how much a simulator would help. Even if you found the perfect numbers, the adjustments you can make are pretty limited and you likely won't get there without modifying your car.

Here's the stock alignment specs for 84-87:

Front camber +0.5 deg
Front caster +5.0 deg
Front toe +0.15 deg

Rear camber -1.0 deg
Rear toe +0.15 deg

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 9:56am
Thanks bud. And I'm thinking with a sensible amount of mods, camber should be tweakable. And toe is adjustable stock. I can't think of a way to dial in more caster, so I'll just have to learn to love it.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 11:42am
One of the ways to get more camber adjustment is to replace your bushings with ones that have an offset centre so you can bring the whole control arm in or out. I'm not sure where you can find some though. If you find a different or better way I'd be interested in hearing about it.

For the caster, you can replace the two 6mm thick washers at the upper control arm with a bunch of smaller washers that give a total thickness of 12mm. Not perfect but it works.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 12:07pm
Okie dokie. Thanks for the heads up Colby, I think I'm going to look into both of those, I like the concepts.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 3:30pm
Moog makes an adjustable upper ball joint for chamber.

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Originally posted by Cheese Cheese wrote:

If you find a different or better way I'd be interested in hearing about it.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 3:33pm

Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

Moog makes an adjustable upper ball joint for chamber.

Don't confuse the boy. That would be "camber".

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 4:01pm
Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

Moog makes an adjustable upper ball joint for chamber.

The Dawg

Originally posted by Cheese Cheese wrote:

If you find a different or better way I'd be interested in hearing about it.



I know, but those really don't provide enough adjustment if you want more negative camber, especially on a lowered car.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2010 at 4:54pm
Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

Moog makes an adjustable upper ball joint for chamber.

The Dawg


Originally posted by Cheese Cheese wrote:

If you find a different or better way I'd be interested in hearing about it.



Already have it, but it only adjusts within 0.5 degrees, which will not be adequate if the front is positive camber, seeing as how my preliminary results show that -0.4 degrees will allow the tires to roll over flat during heavy cornering.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 2:00pm

Found a site Here with some good explanations and diagrams.

When I removed the rear struts on my '84 prior to chopping a couple coils off the springs, I discovered that there was one eccentric camber bolt on just one side. That didn't make any sense to me, so when I reassembled the rear suspension I used all regular strut mounting bolts instead.

Clynt and I then just did a "rough" camber and toe-in adjustment on the suspension (front and rear) when we put the cut springs back in. It's not bad, but I'd like to see if I can get it a bit more precise. I'll probably eventually take it into an alignment shop, but I'm curious to see how well it can be done at home.

For those of us who have lowered our suspension, how necessary is it to use eccentric camber bolts on the rear struts in order to preserve/adjust the correct camber?

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 4:23pm

The mentions the primary issue with alot of positive caster being overcome by modern cars. It should be noted: It will not be corrected by our cars. The article was written for cars with power steering, something our cars lack. Any increased effort will be the driver's job to fight with our cars.

Caster makes the steering wheel hard to turn for two reasons: One, it directs the weight ahead of the tire patch, which causes the tires to want to stay straight. This can be demonstrated with, of all things, shopping cart. Push the cart normally; The tire will follow behind the pivot point, where the weight pushes down. Now, try and turn the wheel 180 degrees out and push forward. It will almost immediately spin around and continue to follow the weight instead. This is due to a phenominom called implied weight. The other reason caster makes the car harder to turn, is because you're essentially turning one tire "into the ground" and "lifting" the other tire. This can only really be thought of if one thinks in the extreme. Using the diagrams from the site, one can see that at zero degrees, the steering ONLY turns the tires. At forty-five degrees half the effort is to turn, the other half is applied to "turning the tire over" (Altering camber). At ninety degrees, the wheels wouldn't turn left or right, but only lean back and forth while still pointing forward.

It is that final "problem" which is also the most beneficial in terms of performance. By causing the tires to lean, this adds in negative camber, which helps correct for tire roll-over (The tires will try and lean opposite the direction the car turns) by adding negative camber to the outside tires, and adding positive camber to the inside tire, helping to flatten both out.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

For those of us who have lowered our suspension, how necessary is it to use eccentric camber bolts on the rear struts in order to preserve/adjust the correct camber?



I'm not completely sure, but I think those bolts just make adjusting it easier and aren't actually required.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 4:29pm

I believe the use of eccentric camber bolts does offer more adjustment. However, they may or may not actually be required on lowered Fieros. (Probably depends on the amount of lowering that's been done.)

Colby, did you bother with them (even for just the added ease of adjustment)?

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 5:31pm
I didn't bother with them, but I still might get some later on to make adjustment easier. The amount of camber adjustment you can get on the back of a stock Fiero seems to be just enough, the bigger issue is the front.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 8:03pm

Alrighty, well, based upon word-of-mouth estimates on what the Fiero GT's spring rate is, I've plugged in the ride height, weight balance, roll-characteristics and tire type, and run through the simulation, and from the speeds at autocross (And highway) the best camber angle would be -0.9 degrees on the front and -1.7, which brings it to about .15 degrees front and -0.05 degrees rear under acceleration at 60MPH, 0 front and rear without acceleration or deceleration, -0.4 degrees front 0.1 degrees rear under deceleration.

The only thing that concerns me is running -1.7 degrees on a daily driven car... Begging for tire wear.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 8:29pm
I'm a little confused... -0.9 deg front and -1.7 rear but "0 front and rear without acceleration or deceleration". Does that mean the the camber angles you list under acceleration/deceleration are just the change in the angles?

Those numbers are actually pretty close to what I tried to get my camber to, I just wasn't able to get the front camber where I wanted. On my car, rear is about -1.6 deg, front is -0.3 deg. I do mostly city driving so tire wear isn't as much of an issue for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 8:37pm

No, the first figures are the static set rates, the last three are what will actually be translated at the bottom of the tire under the circumstances listed, due to caster, tire roll over and body roll.

And you don't find it wears quicker with the -1.6?

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 8:47pm
Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

No, the first figures are the static set rates, the last three are what will actually be translated at the bottom of the tire under the circumstances listed, due to caster, tire roll over and body roll.


How can the camber be 0 deg under a constant velocity but -.9 and -1.7 deg when stationary? Is there really enough drag (and anything else I'm forgetting) at 60mph to cause the front end to lower and the rear end to get higher, and enough to cause that much change? Or is there something else happening?

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

And you don't find it wears quicker with the -1.6?

Not sure, I've only had it there for a couple weeks and less than 400km. I guess I'll find out eventually.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by Cheese Cheese wrote:

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

No, the first figures are the static set rates, the last three are what will actually be translated at the bottom of the tire under the circumstances listed, due to caster, tire roll over and body roll.


How can the camber be 0 deg under a constant velocity but -.9 and -1.7 deg when stationary? Is there really enough drag (and anything else I'm forgetting) at 60mph to cause the front end to lower and the rear end to get higher, and enough to cause that much change? Or is there something else happening?

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

And you don't find it wears quicker with the -1.6?

Not sure, I've only had it there for a couple weeks and less than 400km. I guess I'll find out eventually.

I listed in my first one that it was during cornering at 60 MPH. That's where the dynamic change is coming from.

And alright. Will wear slower than the way I have it now anyways. lol

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2010 at 9:41pm
Ah, that makes much more sense, I must have missed that part. In any case, it's reassuring to know that the numbers you came up with are pretty similar to what I tried to set my car to. 
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