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Anyone know anything about fixing Fords?

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beken View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote beken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 September 2011 at 5:10pm
Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

...The next time I'm by Anne's place I'll have my multimeter with me to take some readings off the battery and alternator.


You should do it soon. If the battery is still actually holding a charge (it appears to be), it is putting out the wrong voltage.   When the rains come, the battery will drain rapidly.



Beken (aka Ken) - bekentech@westcoastfieros.com   Original and still the owner of an 85SE 2M6 4spd
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 September 2011 at 5:58pm

Originally posted by beken beken wrote:

When the rains come, the battery will drain rapidly.

Rain? What rain?

< Patrick looks out window >

What the heck ??!!!

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote beken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 September 2011 at 7:56pm


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2011 at 12:28pm

Originally posted by beken beken wrote:

Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

...The next time I'm by Anne's place I'll have my multimeter with me to take some readings off the battery and alternator.

You should do it soon. If the battery is still actually holding a charge (it appears to be), it is putting out the wrong voltage.   When the rains come, the battery will drain rapidly.

Ken, I was able to get a reading from Anne's car on the weekend. Before I started it (after it had sat for 24 hours), the battery read something like 12.6 volts. After starting it, the reading was 14.4 volts. I suspect the battery and charging system are fine.

That's great, but now I've still got to figure out why her 2001 Taurus wagon with the 3.0 Duratec DOHC engine is throwing those codes.

Her engine runs fine, but it does do one odd thing. While it's sitting there idling smoothly in PARK, every couple of minutes or so, you'll hear this relatively loud "Bink!" sound. Just once. It's like a small hammer hitting a small anvil. No thud, just a metallic "Bink!". Happens a single time, until a couple minutes later.

Anne says it does this while she's driving as well, and that the engine shudders at the time of the sound. I'm not 100% sure she's experiencing the same thing as what I've observed. It's never done it while I've driven her car.

At first I thought it was possibly a valve kissing a piston, as it seems to me this is what it would sound like. But the engine runs fine, and it only happens once each time.

I'm now wondering if it's possible the ignition timing all of a sudden gets too far advanced just for a split second, and it's actually a single loud "Ping" I'm hearing before the ignition timing automatically backs off again.

I have no idea if this is even possible, but I know nothing about these engines and how they may or may not be controllled by their ECMs.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2011 at 5:20pm

Want to borrow my scan-tool?

As for your ignition idea, it does fit the idea, and I know the modern Ford engines all run an ignition system that keeps on advancing until it detects knock, then backs off one degree. I don't think the last gen Tauri had them though... Could just be that the spark plugs are too hot a heat range. They'd get hot, pre-ignite the mixture, then cool off again. Just a guess, mind you.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2011 at 6:26pm

Originally posted by beken beken wrote:

The P1633 code just indicates low battery voltage.   
The P0000 code means all the other sensors appear to be fine.

I might've found the problem and solution Here.

Quote

P1633 - Keep Alive Power Voltage Too Low Indicates that the Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) circuit has experienced a power interrupt.

Possible causes:

Open KAPWR circuit
Damaged PCM
Intermittent KAPWR Circuit

KAPWR is supplies from fuse 21 - 5 amp in the Central junction box (interior fuse panel). It is hot at all times.

Quote Had the same problem with my daily driver '05 Taurus with the flex fuel engine.
Same a/c problem and the same codes.
After wringing out the wiring with a multi-meter and coming up unfulfilled and highly frustrated, I googled the problem and ended up on this site. I read your thread and said to myself "could it really be that simple?"

Ten minutes later, with a fresh fuse installed and the problem disappeared... thanks bud!

Seems to be too much of a coincidence that the people posting in that thread all had A/C compressor clutch problems (as did Anne's Taurus) immediately prior to throwing this code!

I'll be checking those fuses the next time I'm at Anne's place. Who knows, maybe this has something to do with that odd noise I reported as well (if it has something/anything to do with how the ECM/PCM controls things).

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2011 at 6:29pm

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

Want to borrow my scan-tool?

If fuse replacement doesn't solve this problem... Yes!

Thanks dude. 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2011 at 9:29pm
No problem. That's what young, awesome, attractive, intelligent friends are for.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 October 2011 at 1:40pm

Woo hoo!

I checked the fuses in Anne's Taurus and discovered that the 10A fuse for the A/C compressor clutch and the KAPWR circuit had indeed fried. Put in a new fuse and the Check Engine Light is gone!  

Seems like kind of a dumb idea to put the A/C compressor clutch and the "keep alive" power for the PCM/ECM on the same electrical circuit, but anyway, I now know about it. (I don't have the A/C compressor clutch connected electrically as the system needs to be re-charged, so I wasn't aware that the A/C compressor clutch wasn't getting any power and therefore hadn't suspected that any fuses had failed.)

It's too early to tell if this has also resolved the "Bink!" sound coming from the engine, but I'm hoping it was just an ignition timing issue caused by the PCM/ECM having to re-adjust and re-learn settings (including ignition timing) every time the car was turned off and then on.

I want to thank Ken again for putting his code reader on Anne's Taurus and pulling the codes so I at least knew where to start in regards to rectifiying the problem.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote beken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 October 2011 at 2:03pm
Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:


I want to thank Ken again for putting his code reader on Anne's Taurus and pulling the codes so I at least knew where to start in regards to rectifiying the problem.


 



My pleasure. Glad you figured it out.   

Anybody else needing read codes off their OBD II port are welcome to pop by if you need your codes read.   



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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2011 at 10:32pm

Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

It's too early to tell if this has also resolved the "Bink!" sound coming from the engine, but I'm hoping it was just an ignition timing issue caused by the PCM/ECM having to re-adjust and re-learn settings (including ignition timing) every time the car was turned off and then on.

I'm delighted to report (after driving Anne's Taurus this past weekend) that the "Bink!" sound is indeed now gone!

I'd love to have this Ford 3.0L DOHC Duratec engine in a Fiero. It's 200 HP, with an aluminum block and heads, and four valves per cylinder. This engine really makes a full size Taurus wagon move. It would be a great upgrade in my '84 from a duke.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2011 at 11:59pm

How dare you suggest such a transgression!

A Ford motor in a Fiero, you watch your tongue. The only Ford motor I would want to see in a Fiero is the new Scorpion diesel.

On topic though, if you like the Duratec, you should try and drive the SHO Taurus one day. Same motor, but it has a short ram and a long ram intake, so it builds torque, then swaps over and makes HP galore.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2011 at 12:45am
Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

How dare you suggest such a transgression!

A Ford motor in a Fiero, you watch your tongue.

Yeah, and I'm not even a Ford fan.

Anne's Taurus wagon even sounds good when I put my foot into the accelerator. Maybe I should autocross it one day.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2011 at 9:30am
If you think the 3.0 Ford is a great motor, you would love the GM version of that motor.  The 3.4 DOHC motor, 7000 rpm shift points and well over 200hp.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2011 at 1:35pm

Bah, still not as cool as the V6 and V8 SHO engines. Your pick between a 225HP V6 (7000RPM, 3.2L), or the 235HP V8 (7000RPM, 3.4L). Both feature the dual intakes that switch over at 3400RPM.

Yeah. There is a Cosworth/Yamaha V8 with as much displacement as the biggest stroker package for the Fiero.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2011 at 2:11pm

Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

...you would love the GM version of that motor.  The 3.4 DOHC motor, 7000 rpm shift points and well over 200hp.

Too bad the GM 3.4 DOHC still has a cast iron block.

I doubt I'll ever swap an "exotic" engine into a Fiero myself, but I imagine it would be great fun to drive a Fiero which has a lot of power.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2011 at 11:39am
Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

...you would love the GM version of that motor.  The 3.4 DOHC motor, 7000 rpm shift points and well over 200hp.

Too bad the GM 3.4 DOHC still has a cast iron block.

I doubt I'll ever swap an "exotic" engine into a Fiero myself, but I imagine it would be great fun to drive a Fiero which has a lot of power.

 


The DOHC? Always thought it was an aluminum... I think we can all agree that the aluminum block 2.8 from GM beats everything.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote beken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2011 at 4:54pm
Actually, if somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, all the GM 60deg V6 engines varying from 2.8L to 3.4L are cast iron blocks with many variants (including the Fiero) using aluminum heads.

I don't remember GM ever making the 60deg V6 block in aluminum. Even the 3.1L variant designed in conjunction with McLaren was a cast iron block with aluminum heads.

Maybe for custom race applications, they made one, but not for series production.

I've only ever worked on one GM aluminum engine, the 2.3L L4 used in the Vega/Astre, which was a disaster. GM got it upside down. Aluminum block with cast iron head. The head looked a lot like aluminum so I can understand the confusion.   





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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2011 at 7:47pm

Ken and Romeo you are both right.    The aluminum 2.8 blocks were amazing however they were never a production block.  You could buy them from the GM Performance Parts Division.  They were used heavily in the S10 Race Trucks.  The last one I know to exist belonged to Sean Hammit, the major A-SS Hat bastard that now runs the Real Fiero Tech website, which used to be called Pennocks Sucks . com as he was banned from Pennocks for being a rude childish SOB. 

I believe most of the 2.8 Alm blocks ended up being bored out to 2.9 liters and having custom steel sleeves.  The bare block weighed I believe just 40lbs.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2011 at 1:39am
Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

Ken and Romeo you are both right.    The aluminum 2.8 blocks were amazing however they were never a production block.  You could buy them from the GM Performance Parts Division.  They were used heavily in the S10 Race Trucks.  The last one I know to exist belonged to Sean Hammit, the major A-SS Hat bastard that now runs the Real Fiero Tech website, which used to be called Pennocks Sucks . com as he was banned from Pennocks for being a rude childish SOB. 

I believe most of the 2.8 Alm blocks ended up being bored out to 2.9 liters and having custom steel sleeves.  The bare block weighed I believe just 40lbs.


'Aye, that's the one. Apparently they're a skank to get ahold of, from what I hear. Just makes me want it more.

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