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Post Options Post Options   Quote Borteep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Big Thanks
    Posted: 15 November 2007 at 3:23am
To the Captain for helping me out of a jam tonight!

I had my alternator belt tear off on the way to a show. Dave came out and gave me a quick lesson in their replacement, and then diagnosed a couple other issues that need attention as well. Thanks so much!

Kind of a new issue on the way back home that I could use some second opinions on, though.

John (a friend of mine who had ferried me out a new belt) followed me into New West for some grub. On the way there my temp light came on, so we added some distilled water to the overflow, which looked a bit low thanks to a brief overheat as I coasted to the side of the road when the belt broke. Everything was looking good after that, so while John went home, Alexis and I continued to Richard's on Richards to catch the band. No more problems.

After the show, on the way home on #1, my temp light came on again while my coolant temps were showing normal (almost right between 40 and 105). I pulled over and shut the engine off for 15 minutes or so and then continued after the light went out.This happened near Burnaby, and a second time once I was across the Port Mann. After the second instance, I took my next exit to limp home through Surrey and the temperature light stayed out for the rest of my trip, even though I was probably working the engine harder with constant acceleration cycles at stop lights.

Through all of this, the coolant temp was behaving completely normal, raising and lowering related more to engine load more than vehicle speed, and remaining on the left side of 105.

Has anybody encountered anything similar to this?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2007 at 7:45am
The temp light and the gauge both feed from the same sender (it's split inside the physical unit).

ONE of the two halves is lying.

It takes something like 230F to kick on the over temp light.  If you drive for any distance like that you're GOING to cause damage. It's possibly a bunked switch/sender.  Possibly an air pocket in the corner (the sender is at the tranny end, trunk side of the head).

When the engine is COLD (!) and it's sitting level, pull the thermostat housing cap off, and check the coolant level there, then report back.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2007 at 11:44am

Well from what I gatherd from you last night, you said it was burbeling when you shut it down.  I would bet you have an air pocket in the system.  I would wait until it is cold, then pop the rear coolent cap and top up the fluid.  As well as make sure the front res never goes empty.

 

Oh and when I pointed out your exhaust leak was frying your sensor.  That sensor just happens to be the same one that sets off your temp guage and warning light.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2007 at 10:01pm
If it's frying the sensor, it could have also cooked the harness.

If you just happen to now have a short to ground on the right wire, you'll set off the over temp light.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Borteep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2007 at 4:39am
I'll have to take a look at all those possibilities. If the coolant temp gauge is operating absolutely normally, then it's almost certain that it is the engine temp sensor, right? If I had a bubble near the sensor, could that be bad for the engine? Should I check that immediately?

And are the exhaust manifolds as bad to remove as my gut is telling me they are? There's no way I can just loosen that one port and slip a new gasket in, is there?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2007 at 6:12am
You need to remove the whole 'log' (manifold) from the crossover pipe, then replace the gasket (it's one big one that does all 3 ports).

The manifold should be gone over for cracks, and checked for flatness before being reinstalled.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2007 at 1:17pm

John, could you please post the thread size and length of the exhaust stud conversion.

(Dr. Fiero is John)

 

Borteep, do yourself a huge favor and when you do that manifold gasket, install the studs that the good Doctor will let you know the size of.  This all but eliminates the issue with broken off manifold bolts and makes the re-installation of the new gasket and manifold a breeze.  You remove the old bolts and blown gasket, then install the studs.  Then just slip the gasket over the studs, slide the manifold over the studs and spin on the nuts with lock washers.  

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 November 2007 at 7:48am
The thread is an 8*1.25
Stud length...  Ummm...   40mm?


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Borteep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 November 2007 at 4:57pm
Alright, I had a chance to look at the engine. Coolant level under the thermo cap is basically as high as it could be without spilling. I guess I could still have bubbles somewhere that need burping.

I also inspected the wires coming from the temp sensor and they appear to be in good condition, no visible damage to their insulation.


I am inclined to believe the problem is caused by either an air bubble or possibly a short due to some driving tests where I was able to turn out the light by rocking the car suddenly (hard accel/decel) which suggest either the sensor getting hit by coolant and being cooled or the short losing contact. I am further inclined to believe it is a bubble because it would predictably return if I continued driving after rocking the car.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Borteep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 November 2007 at 12:23am
I got to check it out a bit better today thanks to the clear weather. Parked it on level ground, double checked the rear coolant level which is staying as full as it possibly could be. Idled the car for some time, got coolant expansion in the front overflow tank as well as warmth in the radiator lines. Ran it long enough to get to normal operating temperature, but didn't get the temp light on. Seems to only happen at higher speeds or on longer trips or something.

When I checked the overflow tank in the front, I realized the gasket in the cap has lost a chunk. Do I replace the gasket or the cap, and does anybody have a part # handy?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 November 2007 at 12:35am

The gasket in the cap is not a big deal.  I would not worry too much about that.

If the car is only acting up at higher speeds, I would check for crushed coolent lines or hoses that are collapsing.

When you have some time bring the car over to my place during the day and I will take a look at it.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Borteep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 November 2007 at 1:13am
Wow! That's an incredible offer, Dave! I'm sending it off to get some more of the theft related stuff fixed this week,but when I come by for the headlight springs, if you have time I'll gratefully take you up on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2007 at 9:57am
Let me know how the car is doing and when you want to schedule some time over here.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Borteep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 November 2007 at 7:04pm
I got it back last Friday. On Monday it started making a rattling noise like tin cans in the trunk. While trying to find what was loose I noticed the trunk-side exhaust log heating up enough to glow pretty soon after starting so changing that gasket has become a major priority. With any luck I'll have that done tomorrow. Then I need to jack it up and see if the shields on the bottom are loose or if the catalytic converter died and solve that rattle.

Please PM me and let me know if you have some time for me to come by next week to pull those headlight springs.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Borteep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 December 2007 at 2:29am
Ugh, so the exhaust bolts are in horrible shape. Can't do anything with them without air tools or dropping the engine, so it's going to a shop. 
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