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New Owner 86se, few questions

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Dawg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2010 at 4:22pm
My vote is 3.4L motor.  To my knowledge, it's the biggest motor available that can use the stock intake and ignition system.  Easy swap with more than enough power for most regular people.

DG
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Patrick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2010 at 6:02pm

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

what a peice of work this has turned out to be so far!
...got discuraged on keeping track of exact oil consumption but it was a little over 2 litres going van - southern bc - christina lake - jasper - prince george - van

Sorry to hear that the "fresh rebuild" wasn't so fresh, or so rebuilt after all. 

Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

Dunno what to think of this car better yet the guy who sold it to me.

There are a few honest people, but realistically, you can't believe anything you're told by the seller of a car.

I'm always dubious of claims, for example, of a "new" clutch. So many used cars on the market (with manual trannys) are advertised as having a "new" clutch. When you dig a little deeper you find out that the clutch was indeed "new"... five years ago (or longer)!

Kind of similar to the following...

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

fresh rebuild on motor...

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

I talked with the gentleman out of Courtney who rebuilt the engine 4ish years ago.

 

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cam2510 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 August 2010 at 9:25am
so the 3.4 it is.... though i am not a normal person since I enjoy things like a lowered 3cyl sprint on stock donut tires thus you can feel that tire roll!!!

is a stroked 2.8l same as a 3.4l from the late 80's? what would be the most power id hope to see?

see the funniest thing is the previous owner actually had no idea, brought him over showed him the front an rear cracks and he lost it!!! He got so angry i was actually walking around the car away from him. All in all we have agreement that when the time comes for the new block he is doing the labor at no charge and until then he is going to make the re-builders life hell. yay for stout fiery french people.
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Dr.Fiero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 August 2010 at 9:37am
a 'real' 3.4 is more or less (though there's more to it) a bored and stroked 2.8L


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 August 2010 at 9:39am
Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

My vote is 3.4L motor.  To my knowledge, it's the biggest motor available that can use the stock intake and ignition system.  Easy swap with more than enough power for most regular people.

DG

If I'm not mistaken, the 3.4 does have it's own intake system, seperate than that of the Fiero, does it not? A more bulbous, smooth looking intake...
Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 August 2010 at 9:43am
I think that's the aluminum head 3.4 that has the funky intake.

There's an iron head 3.4 that's a "drop in" replacement for the 2.8 (though it's hard to find).  Got used in FWD mini vans, and possibly other applications.  You'd still want to swap over the upper exterior Fiero bits just to keep it looking right (or use the other parts which worked better!).

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 August 2010 at 10:58am

 

  The 3.4 you want is from the Camaro the front wheel drive 3.4 is a lower compression version and has less power.  I have the Dyno slips here from a recent chassie dyno of a 3.4 Camaro I belive you can expect 190hp from a 3.4 in a Fiero.  You use all the stock Fiero parts intake and such on the 3.4 it is a direct swap over.

Here is info copied from the Fiero Factory's website.

We had a drill guide plate manufactured that allows drilling and tapping starter mounting holes on an assembled 3.4 longblock. After that it is simple to redress it with all the Fiero V6 parts so that it looks EXACTLY like the original engine. The 3.4's have a plug where the distributor installs (even TDC, but head is in the way, tried that to see if we could run TDC with Fiero computer). Just remove plug, install distributor, and you'll find the distributor hold down bolt hole is even threaded! There are a few easy bracket modifications to do or that we furnish.

The 3.4 needed is used in 93-95 Camaro's and Firebird's. It is also available new from GM Performance as a replacement for S-10 and Blazer. Larger flow rate injectors have to be used and don't come with the "crate" engine. These would have to be purchased separately. They will come with engines pulled from wrecked cars.. Must use the 3.4 injectors, or 305 chevy (both will "clip" to the Fiero fuel rail). We also use an adjustable fuel regulator to be on the safe side. Have found different engines (depending on cam and exhaust headers) like different pressures.

There are a few other minor mods as well as the major one of changing starter sides. We are charging $450 to modify the block. If you are auto, part of the 3.4 needs to be cutaway to clear the trans. Not necessary for std trans. The bolt hole that takes the bolt from the pass side, lowest bellhousing one toward the trunk, is threaded in the 3.4 and needs to be drilled smooth. The oil pressure sensor tube needs an adapter, 3.4 blocks are minus one of the bosses that the engine shock mounts to. That boss is also where the a/c adjusting bracket bolts. Cure is: shock mount bracket with bolt welded from the back to become a stud. 88's will then need 85-87 a/c bracket.

A modified 85-87 front engine mount bracket must be used on the 88 engine cradle if you use the 3.4 oil pan. 87-88 timing covers will work with 3.4 pan, otherwise use cover and pan from 85-86 2.8. 3.4 dampner needs to aligned with the 2.8, and new timing mark cut. Lower bellhousing bolt hole (trans side) is threaded on 3.4. Drill out threads for bolt coming from opposite direction to transaxle. Reducer bushing necessary for oil sensor tube. Clip wires from 3.4 cam and crank sensor and leave installed, is easiest way to plug these holes. (crate engines come with plugs) Remove 3.4 oil cooler, and install 2.8 filter adapter. 3.4's need neutrally balanced flexplate/flywheel which 88 2.8's already have. A 4-5 lb heavier flywheel available for 3.4TDC from Chev for about 1/3 the cost of 88 Fiero. (They are identical except for weight).

An 87-88 Fiero timing chain cover will work with the 3.4 oil pan. You would need to use both your 85 or 86 pan and cover, as a set. It also requires a Fiero water pump instead of the 3.4's. Most folks want a new water pump installed, plugs, wires, belts, maybe a clutch at this time. Since the cost of transferring all the old parts is included, there is no further labor charge if they are new parts, just the cost of any new parts you might want/need. Can't give an exact price, since it would depend on you, and the purchase cost of the 3.4

Capt Fiero
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Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 August 2010 at 11:51am

Ok I went ahead and posted the dyno information here

http://westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2021

Capt Fiero
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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 1:42pm
thanks for all the great info, your a tremendous help.

is it just me or do these vehicles suspension break easy? I took off did a little 90degree kick and stick to the left(impossible to turn & go without kicking out, starting to think its a sign of a bigger problem) the car rocked a bit though it didn't feel bad now the steering feels soft to the right. even after all the work ive been doing it still wonders on the road, feels like a pushsteer at all times yet it was just aligned. am i trying to achieve something that isn't possible by wanting a car that will drive straight down the road(besides bumps)? if so Ive already waisted twice what the car cost me and gotten nowhere.

I haven't even tried to have fun yet its just too sketchy!

I wish i went to the last meet just to get an idea of what im getting into!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 1:57pm

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

...impossible to turn & go without kicking out

???

Not really sure what you mean. If you want advice on a problem, speak in terms we can all understand.

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

...am i trying to achieve something that isn't possible by wanting a car that will drive straight down the road?

No, these cars handle like they're on rails when they're maintained properly.

 

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Dr.Fiero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 3:52pm
I'm voting you let someone who's owned one for a while drive your car.  It really sounds like you're not sure what to expect.

One of my adages: If you don't know where you're going, it's really hard to navigate there.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Car-2-Lo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 4:49pm
Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

...impossible to turn & go without kicking out


???


Not really sure what you mean. If you want advice on a problem, speak in terms we can all understand.


Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

...am i trying to achieve something that isn't possible by wanting a car that will drive straight down the road?


No, these cars handle like they're on rails when they're maintained properly.


 



I had the same problem with the rear suspension wondering, we're lucky to have experts members Dawg, Patrick, Capt and Clynt that helped
me with that problem, now it rides like it's on rails again.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 5:13pm

Originally posted by Car-2-Lo Car-2-Lo wrote:

I had the same problem with the rear suspension wondering, we're lucky to have experts members Dawg, Patrick, Capt and Clynt that helped me with that problem, now it rides like it's on rails again.

Thanks for the compliment, John. I'm hardly an "expert". If anything, I'm persistent. I just chip away at a problem until it's resolved, whether it's cars or relationships. 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 5:45pm

LOL!!

Yeah Patty, that sounds about right...

Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 5:54pm
yes dr.fiero your right im not sure what to expect though what i am sure of is where i want to go. it drove better when first purchased and its been a battle fixing everything since trying to get back to "normal". plus if its supposed to handle like its on rails something is still completely messed up with mine!

what I mean by the kick and go is when i try accelerate from a stop and turn into traffic per say one tire will always spin and cause a quick kick as i straighten the wheel. I have noticed it only kick to the left when turning right it seems like its too soft.

I would really love to have someone with a little knowledge of these vehicles tell me what they think of her but I am now afraid of what they are going to say!

car-2-lo what ended up being your problem, was it a costly fix?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 6:06pm
Where are you located?

If you want to bring it over to my place during
the day I'll take you for a drive and let you
know what's what.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 1:12pm
I am on saltspring, just a ferry ride away from van vic or crofton.
ya that sounds like a good idea, from my knowledge you would be the only person with experience specific to fiero's to even look at the car never mind drive it! I did just finish a 2 week vacation so my days off aren't for another week or so if that's still cool. Just need to know how to find you, I mean literally cause im from a small town even Nanaimo was confusing to me the first time. I'd probably be best to go buy a gps save myself the frustrations.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 1:17pm
I'm in North Delta.
Google maps is your friend.

When you're ready to head over to the big dirt pile (mainland!) PM or email me and I'll get you some details.  Leave me a ph# and I can call you too (Magic Jack - free LD).

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Car-2-Lo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 August 2010 at 9:36am
Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:


car-2-lo what ended up being your problem, was it a costly fix?


LOOSE NUTS...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBFMLyZ23Wc&feature=channel

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 August 2010 at 9:52am

Originally posted by Car-2-Lo Car-2-Lo wrote:

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:


car-2-lo what ended up being your problem, was it a costly fix?

LOOSE NUTS...

Some guys put a bra on their cars. Johnny's chopper requires a jockstrap.

 

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