The alternator on my '86 GT is in the process of packing it in. The volt light is coming on more often, sometimes dimly and sometimes full brightness. (For this reason I informed Tristan that a drive to Whistler probably wasn't a good idea for me this weekend!)

Anyway, after doing a bit of research, I discovered that my alternator is missing a heat shield. Just thought I'd mention this in case any of you are missing yours as well. With the alternator literally only an inch away from the exhaust log, it's definitely worthwhile having a heat shield in place to help keep alternator electronics temperatures in check.

Here's some images I found at Pennocks...

        Out of all the Fiero's I have replaced alternators on, I have not noticed any perceivable gain or loss when it comes to that heat shield.  If you really want to get an improvement though, find some place that sells the CS wiring adapter and install an alternator from an 88 V6 Fiero.  100amp vs 66/94amp, better low rpm output, only about 3/4th's the size.    Price was right around $100 IIRC when I changed out the OEM one on my 88GT a few years ago.  

Capt Fiero wrote: Price was right around $100 IIRC when I changed out the OEM one on my 88GT a few years ago.

Yes, the CS unit is a nice improvement over the original SI alternator, but if a diode trio solves my problem for five bucks, I'll be sticking with the old SI unit.

       Well if you are going to tear it apart and rebuild it yourself, it would be a hell of a waste to just try the diode, an entire alternator rebuild kit including brushes, bearings and everything was only around 20 bucks the last time I checked.

Tristan, are you referring to power pulley kits such as http://www.rodneydickman.com/87V6powerpulleykits.html - This from Rodney Dickman?

It's debatable whether or not there's any appreciable difference in HP with power pulleys. If I was to use a power pulley kit on my GT, I'd buy just the two pulleys from Rodney (which he's told me he will sell without the other bits) and use them with the http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/039384.html - belt tensioner kit  that Dodgerunner sells.

I have Dodgerunner's custom made belt tensioner on my GT and it's the best $100 investment (for the bracket, tensioner, and belt) I ever made for a car of mine. No more screwing around trying to get the belt tight, and no more squeals... ever!

First

  The pulley kit I am referring to, is a single and double under drive kit.   You get a billet aluminum crank pulley and a billet aluminum alternator pulley.

     The crank only pulley slows water pump and alternator down, then when you add the 2nd under drive pulley to the alternator, it "further reduces" the alternator down.  I believe its a total reduction of 40%.

       Now after you have read all the fluff, go to the link below.  ASP racing is company that supplies, the kits to the various vendors, and are substantially cheaper than most retailers.

http://www.aspracing.com/index.html - http://www.aspracing.com/index.html

Fiero

Year	Engine	Pulley Description	Full Charge	- Info-	Hard CoatBlack Alum
85-88	2.8	25% Crank	900 RPM	javascript makeRemote'images/asp845200.jpg'">  http://www.aspracing.com/ins845200.htm">	ASP845200 https://www.aspracing.com/ezRetail/search/view.php?msg_id=296" target=blank> $59.95
85-88	2.8	25% Crank23% Alternator	1100 RPM	javascript makeRemote'images/asp845202.jpg'">  http://www.aspracing.com/ins845202.htm">	ASP845202 https://www.aspracing.com/ezRetail/search/view.php?msg_id=297" target=blank> $79.95

Click-On Price to Order

Just for price comparison purposes, in May of last year Rodney told me he'd sell the two pulleys for $55.

     You are aware that Rodneys double pulley kit and the one I posted do totally diffrent things right?

No. Explain.

Rodney's power pulley kit allows the alternator to charge at the same rate while idling as the stock pulleys (even with the older, less efficient SI alternators).

If the kit you mention doesn't work in the same manner as Rodney's, I definitely would not buy it for street use.

[EDIT] Okay, I now realize that the double pulley kit you've mentioned requires the engine to be doing at least 1100 RPM(!) for the alternator to be giving a full charge. Sounds like a total pain in the neck to use with a daily driver automobile to me.

Yes exactly, I think you are figuring it out.  

With the ASP kit, your alternator spins 25% slower with the single pulley kit

However with the double pulley kit your alternator spins roughly 40% slower than normal.

For guys that drive in a spirited manor this actually helps the alternator and other accessories.  When I am shifting at oh 6200rpms my alternator and its bearings, or water pump are not screaming for there life.

     I ran the double kit on my old 85GT and had no major issues.  During the winter months I would pop the alternator pulley off and pop the stock alternator pulley on.   However for the rest of the time it was great.  Never once had a dead battery due to the kits.

         My 88, has the crank only pulley on it and again even towing a trailer with extra lights on the trailer, and powering a DC 750w inverter, oh and a stereo system, with sub and amp, and even running the A/C.   I still don't have an issue.

     If your car can't keep up with only the crank under drive, installed, there is something really wrong with your car / charging system or grounds.

     Albeit Highly Unlikely, the possibility would be there.  In order to discharge the system enough to kill the car, you would have to idle it for I'd say at least 3-4hrs without ever touching the gas, the 1st time you touched the gas to creep forward the engine would go above that 1100-1500rpm spot and charge like normal.

    Noting that you would have to be stopped, with the lights on, the brakes on, the stereo on, and the rad fan on, in order for it to even be an issue.

Romeo wrote: Maybe I should look into a double-under and combine with a superior alternator...

Tristan, what do you hope to accomplish with this set up? Don't fall for the hype.

Seriously, do some research at Pennocks and read about people's experiences with power pulleys.

The positive reports are usually - No noticeable change in power.

The negative reports are - Battery being slowly drained while idling in traffic, slow blinkers, etc.

You can probably get a used set of these underdrive/power pulleys cheap from people fed up with them and going back to the factory pulleys.

  I am sitting here trying to find a way to reply without sound like a complete bastard.

   1st Raise your hand if you haver ever seen my driving my 88GT.

Has anyone ever seen me needing a jump due to a dead battery?

Due to what we believe to be an incorrect cam install, my car does not start very well cold.  I have to crank it over and over and over again.  So my battery has to be in top shape.   

        Patrick do you have "any" personal experience with these on Fiero's.

               Well I do, for the last 9 years.  Its worth between 1 and 2 tenths in a quarter mile race, (thats 1 - 2 car lengths)   Car revs better, gets better highway gas mileage, and although nearly impossible to prove, lower emissions, due to the lower strain on the engine.   

    I can go outside and if you wish, hook a voltage gauge to my car and let it idle, its charging around 13.8v.

          Tristen you have ridden in my car, you've seen how much junk I have plugged in all the time, you have heard how the engine is and seen how high I spin it before I shift and don't have an issue.

    As for upgrading the alternator, the CS is a more efficient design so it uses less engine power to make the same voltage and current. 

Capt Fiero wrote: I am sitting here trying to find a way to reply without sound like a complete bastard.

Geez Dave, why such passion? We're just talking about power pulleys here.

Capt Fiero wrote: Patrick do you have "any" personal experience with these on Fiero's.

No, but does that negate my opinion? I haven't orbited the planet in a spacecraft either, but I can draw from other people's experience that the earth is indeed round.

When I replaced my harmonic balancer (and also installed Dodgerunner's automatic belt tensioner) last year, I was going to install power pulleys as well while I was poking around in there. After researching other people's experience with power pulleys at Pennock's, I decided the hell with it. More potential trouble than it's worth.

If you've had no problems and you've actually experienced a measurable improvement in performance, that's great.

I suppose the driving style should be considered though as well... Most people would say that having the clutch I had now is a "degradation" from stock, but personally, from the way I drive I can't imagine the car any other way. Similarly, I tend to late-shift quite often, meaning the lost accessory RPMs would be negligable, hopefully.

Regardless, the whole discussion is irrelevent for the moment, I need to save moneys for rent now, not performance (That sound you hear is my heart breaking).

Romeo wrote: I suppose the driving style should be considered... I tend to late-shift quite often

Driving "style" really has little to do with whether or not a reduced charging capacity is going to keep up with charging the battery enough. It has a heck of a lot more to do with where a person does the bulk of their driving - highway or city streets.

Someone who drives 90% on the highway will probably never have a problem with their battery staying charged while using power pulleys. That same car used for 90% driving in the city, especially in "bumper to bumper" traffic, may have constant problems with a partly charged battery.

Yes, and I suppose that would be another issue I'd have to consider, albeit, at the moment, the only city driving I do is at six in the morning, and it's very easy to drive like it's a highway. Or Nurburgring.

Regardless, my Fiero will be getting stored for five months, so the whole discussion really wont affect it one way or the other for quite a while.

Romeo wrote: Regardless, my Fiero will be getting stored for five months...

...

I must've missed the memo. Why is your Fiero being stored?

Romeo wrote: Moving to Dawson Creek for a while.

Well geez, how the hell you going to help out at the club meetings while living in Dawson Creek??? 

Romeo wrote: Just long enough for you to miss me.

Heh heh...

So when do you take off?

          If I were you, I'd rent a tow dolly, hitch your Fiero to the back of the truck and head up.    I honestly don't know how far it is or what the winter is like, however the fiero is decent in about 90% of the weather situations.  The 10% being the extreme deep snow, that even my 88 with Snow Tires had issues moving around in last winter.

       Too bad you can't stick around, but best of luck up there.

Hey you... ya you, the owner of "lovely little Getchin". You missed my question.

Patrick wrote: So when do you take off?

I was thinking September 8th, just to allow myself to get settled before I start work.

Romeo wrote: I was thinking September 8th, just to allow myself to get settled before I start work.

The 8th won't work. You'll miss the meeting on the 12th.

Romeo wrote: Fine Patty boy, let me phone up and see if I can push everything back a week. Just for you.

Just a week? Geez, I thought you'd call the whole thing off for me.

Romeo wrote: Hey, unless you're 18, female and rich, that ain't happening. lol

< looks at birth certificate, feels inside shorts, checks bank account >

Enjoy Dawson Creek!

Well, I finally fixed my alternator.

With an automatic tranny and a V6, the alternator wasn't going to drop out the bottom (or out the top or out the side, etc). So I took out the four case bolts and "cracked" it in half while it was still mounted. I was then able to get both halves out the passenger side wheel well.

Went to Edmonds Starters & Alternators, 532 East Broadway, and bought a set of brushes and a diode trio. Total cost - $5, no tax. Such a deal.

Anyway, it turned out that not only was the diode trio shot, but so was the rectifier and the stator! I can't believe the alternator was producing any current at all, but I've been driving around this way for two months (with a dim volt light reminding me that something wasn't quite kosher).

Luckily I had another alternator here that I could rob parts from and I used it's rectifier and stator/front case/pulley. 

I reassembled the two halves while in place on the motor and started her up. Put a volt meter on the battery - 14.45 volts at idle. I'm a happy camper.

Oh, and I put a heat shield on the alternator as well.