Does anyone have a part number for a duke water pump with a metal impeller?

I don't want one with a plastic impeller as they are known to be inferior. (The plastic impeller often works loose from the shaft and then doesn't do anything.)

It's for an '84. I suspect the pump itself is the same for all years. (The '87-'88 dukes have a different pulley.)

While we're discussing pulleys, what is the best method of removing the pulley from the old pump and installing it on the new pump?

So now I've got a few things to do to this car...

1) Drop the cradle to fix whatever is preventing the clutch release lever from moving. (I suspect the clutch fork isn't positioned in the throwout bearing properly.)

2) Drill out a broken starter bolt which has snapped off in the block.

3) Re & re the timing cover to pound out a dent that is rubbing on the timing gear.

4) Replace the water pump which is dripping coolant out the bottom weep hole.

Will it ever end?

Geez, I've never even seen one of those types of pullers before. Hopefully one of the club members closer to Vancouver has one and can swap pulleys for me.

I also wasn't aware that there were differences as to whether the impeller was open or closed.

Man, I didn't realize a degree was necessary to replace a leaking water pump!

Thanks for the info, Cheese.

So did you bother unbolting the "elbow" from the block and then remove the pump from it, or did you leave the elbow attached to the block?

                    The one and only time I have ever done a water pump on a 4 popper, I only removed the pump section.   As for the pulley, I can't remember it was so long ago, but either the pulley was already on, or I was able to change it with an impact gun, as I know I did not have a puller and I didn't have to go anywhere.  IIRC I was really surprised at how quick a job it was compared to a V6 pump.

Capt Fiero wrote: As for the pulley, I can't remember it was so long ago, but either the pulley was already on, or I was able to change it with an impact gun, as I know I did not have a puller and I didn't have to go anywhere.

Yes, apparently some replacement water pumps do come complete with pulleys.

Cheese wrote: The pump you buy might come with them too, so if you get them you might as well take it all out and replace the old gaskets, although I don't know if there's any real benefit to that if they weren't already leaking.

Actually, the "benefit" I was wondering about was whether it actually might be easier in the long run to remove the four mounting bolts that hold the elbow to the block, and then remove the pump from the elbow when it's off the engine.

However, from the sound of it though, it seems like it's not that bad of a job to just unbolt the pump from the elbow while it's still on the engine.

Besides, I'll probably be doing this with the cradle dropped  (to fix a clutch problem), so access shouldn't be an issue.

Dr.Fiero wrote: If you do indeed need a 'power steering' puller installer, I've got one.  Well, I did the last time I looked anyhow.

Okay, thanks for letting me know John. I won't be needing it for awhile as I have to first figure out how and where I'm going to drop this cradle.

     Ya know Patrick maybe its just, but I still don't think you have ever gotten the hydraulics operating right to verify the clutch movement.  You said you pushed the pedal and "nothing" happened at the back, well if that is the case, then the hyd stuff is not working.  Any movement from the master should result in movement at the slave.   If the pedal won't move at all, then the master is seized, if it moves halfway to the floor and hits a brick wall so to speak, then the 1st gen master has failed and needs to be replaced.    If the pedal moves freely to the floor while attached however there is no slave movement you have air in the system.

                If you were "just some kid"  and neither myself or him really cared, I would just walk away and let them have at it, however I know you don't want to go through work you might not have to do.  If you want, drop me a PM with your home address, and if I can work it into my Burnaby run, I'll stop by and take a look first hand.     Maybe I can save you the nightmare of dropping the cradle.

Dave, I appreciate the offer (and I'll probably take you up on it!), but did you have a good look at those pictures in http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?FID=1&TID=1533&PN=1&get=last - This thread ? I don't believe there's enough room for the clutch fork to pivot before the clutch release lever would hit the bellhousing on the gimped '84. For the clutch release lever/fork shaft to already be that far rotated, I believe the fork must be positioned beyond where it's supposed to be.

In regards to the hydraulics, nothing would happen when the pedal is pressed if the clutch fork is jammed someplace it's not supposed to be. I'm pretty sure this is what bent up the pedal so bad. I suspect the previous owner must've been standing on the pedal trying to get it to move!

Here's the '84 pedal I took out compared to the one from my '87 I'm "borrowing" to put in the '84.

I haven't got the slave installed at the moment, but when the weather clears I'll put it in and have you over. In the meantime, now that the weather is ugly, I'll return to editing that special video that I know you're interested in.

Better... of course.

Easier... not a chance!

Easier solution to the easy solution: Win the lottery and hire a shop.

Honestly Patty, must I consider every detail for you? lol