2.8 Engine
Printed From: West Coast Fieros
Category: Buy / Sell
Forum Name: Engines / Transmissions and Related Parts
Forum Description: Please use FS: (for sale) WTD: (wanted) in the title of each post
URL: http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1887
Printed Date: 25 November 2024 at 2:45am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 2.8 Engine
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Subject: 2.8 Engine
Date Posted: 02 June 2010 at 9:24pm
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Iam at a stand still with my car,its got a bad rod! no1CYL.Ive got it tor
down to the to the point that theres one head left-the rear of the car one,the-FWD- one is off,as well as everything else above it.when i got this car i had to put a fuel pump in it,got it fired up but it had a small knock! bad lifter i thought?i have two fresh 2.8 heads ported an polished ready to go back on,but when i pulled apart this motor it was a bad rod,not a lifter as i thought,the guy i bought it from said it was a bad lifter.so know at this point do i pull the motor out through the top-or drop it out the bottom? realy it the wiring harness that i worry about,do i have to start taking the inside of this car apart,i don't want to do that.how does the two main cuplings come out through the fire wall,or can i leave all the wiring in the ENG bay when i pull the motor.i would like to keep this car total stock Fiero.any pointers would be greatly appreciate.thanks O yea? iam looking for a 2.8 short block to build,i know theres two sitting at the wreckers@PICK A PART,they got a $159 ENG specials this month. ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Replies:
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 02 June 2010 at 10:44pm
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When you say rod, you must mean connecting rod, not push rod right? Maybe someone else will comment on this, but... If you can get the oil pan off, you can disconnect the rod end from the crankshaft and push the piston out the top. Then you can figure out if it's the crank end or the wrist pin. If it's the wrist pin, fix it up and reconnect it. You can check out the crank bearing and get a new rod, then plastiguage it when you put it all back. You could save yourself the work of pulling the engine, and while you're there you can check out the rest of the crank bearings. If you do need to pull the engine, it comes out the bottom. The idea is to pull the wheels and brake calipers off, then drop the car so that the cradle weight is supported on a dolly, or just some wood blocks. Get it as low to the ground as is practical. Then, remove the front and rear cradle mounts and lift the car off the cradle, leaving the engine, tranny, cradle and exhaust in one piece on the ground. It's a bit tricky, but after practice I've gotten it down to 2.5 hours or so (With an overhead crane). If your car is an 85 or newer, disconnect the electrical at the ecm and feed the wires through the firewall towards the engine. there is also an electrical connector by the battery which needs to be disconnected. If it's an 84 then the connectors are the same for the ecm, but the third connector is in front of the engine near the middle of the car (Buried!). Chay Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 02 June 2010 at 10:45pm
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To get to the ecm connectors you have to take out the rear part of the center console...the one with the glovebox in it. The ecm is behind it. Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 03 June 2010 at 7:31am
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As above, and.... It'll be a rod bearing. It always it. The crank will be trashed. I've done 100 of 'em. The engine you get from pick-a-part will end up with the same problem in-between 180 and 220K km's (my statistic from data gathered over the last 15 or so years) from new, depending on maintenance. It will cost you roughly $2500 to rebuild what you have (totally) with machining and parts costs, if you do all the rest yourself. If you DO decide to keep that basic engine, AND do a total rebuild, at least go buy a new Eagle 3.1 crank with matching pistons (rods are all the same) - and only do a .010" overbore if that will clean it up. More than .030" and the cylinder walls want to twist out of shape due to thin castings. |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 03 June 2010 at 7:09pm
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Thanks guys for the in put,sorry about no specs,tryed to post pics but looks
like i screwed up some how? JPG file130k? Its a 87 auto GT,2.8 stock.the car is vary clean! an i wan't to keep it stock.i do have a 1990 3.1 chevy lumina,iam keeping that for my other car,86GT. but if i drop that in my 87 it won't be stock any more.i all so have another 2.8 short block but its in the 86,same problem! and i would have to take it out all so.i guess i have to pull the 87 out.so for the ECM i have to pull the glove box out an push the harness out through the fire wall,is that right?Thanks again for all the help. ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 03 June 2010 at 9:00pm
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Yes that is right. If you look at the side of the center console, there is a vented looking portion. that is where the ecm is. Remove the center console and you can't miss the ecm. Detach the ecm plugs, then push the firewall plugs to the rear (they clip in) and feed the whole thing through the firewall into the engine bay. C ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: Capt Fiero
Date Posted: 03 June 2010 at 9:36pm
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If you use a 2.8/3.1/3.4 V6 in the Fiero, they are
externally identicle assuming you get the ones with Iron Heads, and won't really affect collector status as they don't exactly check the serial number on the block, they just want it to look correct. I'd say as long as the 3.1 is an iron head motor, I'd use that one and skip the 2.8 engines. If you can get complete 3.1's for under 200 bucks, you are set, just use the Fiero intake and external bits and re-assemble everything into the car. Dropping out the bottom is the best bet, even if you just tie a block and tackle to a large tree and hoist up the body that way. The empty back half of the car without engine weighs less than 500lbs. ------------- Capt Fiero 88 Fiero GT 5spd V6 Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd. |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 03 June 2010 at 11:22pm
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the 3.1 is not the iron head motor,it has ALUM heads,an a weird intake-
TB.but the fule rail SYS is the same as Fiero.will this motor work guys. Thanks03_232236_3.1LGoodwrench.gif"> ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 04 June 2010 at 6:33am
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I'm not sure why it worked, but one guy did take a 3.1 with aluminum heads, and swapped the cast top end onto it (which should leave you with a REALLY low CR) but... it worked.... Guess it all comes down to how much you want to throw at this ($ wise). |
Posted By: Capt Fiero
Date Posted: 04 June 2010 at 7:42am
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Someone locally swears they have gotten the aluminum head version to work, however all I have read it should not work. So the short answer is I don't know. ------------- Capt Fiero 88 Fiero GT 5spd V6 Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd. |
Posted By: Romeo
Date Posted: 04 June 2010 at 8:50pm
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The Aluminum heads have much higher compression ratio comparitively, as they're only a 29cc chamber versus 60-something on the Irons. And I was told Chevy 305 (I believe) pistons is the way to go if you want to run mid-tens (CR) for an iron block with aluminum heads. ------------- Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan. |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 04 June 2010 at 9:09pm
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Yup - the heads have tiny chambers. They ALSO have a hugely dished piston to go with them! So the combo nets you something like 9:1. So in theory, those big ass dished pistons, plus the large chamber of the cast head should net you something like.... crap... but.... ???? |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 13 June 2010 at 7:21pm
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iam going to go 3.1 for its the easy,straight swap.got a cuppl of ?,the Fiero
intake,i have 3 an two of them have stickers that say Fiero,an one is engraved.whats the difference!year?allso locking wheel nuts,did the Fiero ever come with factory locking wheel nuts,i just pulled the plastic caps off an found them,an no key-@#&^% to remove them.i don't think the wheels were ever off this car,all 4 rims are mint! never seen a curb.still the original GOODYEAR/EAGLES.they seen better days.if a key is available please let me know,thanks  |
Posted By: Capt Fiero
Date Posted: 13 June 2010 at 8:00pm
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Ok Engraved vs Sticker, 85-86 was Sticker, 87-88 was Engraved, there is no other difference, all ports and sizes are the same. Aside from the brake vacuum port is threaded on one and not on the other. (no real difference) Wheels yes all Fiero's with either 14" or 15" Aluminum wheels had locks, and GOOD LUCK trying to find the correct key. I have seen at least 3-4 different keys. Best bet is get some cheap junk 1/2 drive sockets and pound them on. Unless the car is drivable then you can just take it to a tire shop, they probably won't charge more than 20 bucks to remove all 4. (they have a special tool for removing locking nuts)
------------- Capt Fiero 88 Fiero GT 5spd V6 Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd. |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 13 June 2010 at 8:07pm
ok thanks Dave,going to make my own socket,then ill have it.have to drop
the ENG. |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 14 June 2010 at 8:50am
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Nice looking car! (They all look linda nice compared to mine right now...no nose on it!)
Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 16 June 2010 at 12:15am
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Thanks Clay
The interior of my car is all so in mint shape,its total 87 stock FIERO.The 2.8 is done! an iam going to take Daves advise an put a 3.1 back in.lots of good advise here,thanks all.  |
Posted By: Romeo
Date Posted: 17 June 2010 at 11:01am
Not with the 2.8 rotating assembly they don't, they end up with like 8.5 and that's with a .010" milling on both head and deck. lol ------------- Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan. |
Dr.Fiero wrote:Posted By: Romeo
Date Posted: 17 June 2010 at 11:04am
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If you're near New West I still have my key here, you can use it for as many days as you need until you get them off (Then I'd suggest getting aftermarkets locking nuts). |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 17 June 2010 at 11:08am
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That's going the other way around. I was saying that: Al heads with tiny chambers + dished 3.1 pistons = a good 9:1 (ish) Iron heads with big chamber + dished 3.1 pistons = {who knows but it'll be low!} Or take a 2.8 block with it's flat tops, plus 3.1 Al heads and tiny chambers... should stick you around 12:1? More? Ha! Who knows - never bothered to do the exact math. But if a stock ~80cc chamber nets you around 8.9:1, a 28cc chamber has GOT to be high! |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 17 June 2010 at 11:14am
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Resized all the pictures in this thread to make it readable (especially for Patrick! Figure if it was big enough to bother ME, it'd be KILLING him! Hahaha) |
Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 17 June 2010 at 11:50am
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Much appreciated.
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Posted By: Romeo
Date Posted: 17 June 2010 at 11:43pm
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Iron Block + Alum Heads + 20cc Dished Pistons (3.4L Alum Stock) = 9.3 (with .020" worth of milling)* Iron Block + Iron Heads + 20cc Dished pistons = 7.3 (With .020" worth of milling) Iron Block + Alum Heads + Flat top pistons = 12.9 (With .005" worth of milling)
http://60degreev6.com/content.php/101-CR-Calc?s=692be9f95d824c0d0dcf013263ebd532 - http://60degreev6.com/content.php/101-CR-Calc?s=692be9f95d82 4c0d0dcf013263ebd532 & *That .020" worth of milling is necessary just to get 9.3:1, and brings the pistons within .006" of the head (Which is BEGGING for trouble). ------------- Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan. |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 17 June 2010 at 11:58pm
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Sorry about the pics guys,ive had a @#% bit of a time posting pics here,ill
resize them to a reasonable size,when i figer out why it won't except my .JPG file@135k,sometimes it will load ok an sometimes it won't.so i copy an paste the last file to upload an then change the file number an then it works?i have no idea why?-file is .JPG an under a 150k? ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 18 June 2010 at 8:23am
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I use a freeware program called 'pixresizer' and have had no problems.
Not sure what your issue is, but you might want to try it. http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm - http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm
The nice part is you can do multiple images at once. Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 18 June 2010 at 11:08am
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I've posted here about the following free utility numerous times...
And again...
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Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 18 June 2010 at 11:09pm
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OK ive resized the pics,in hope there ok. not!-all so? will a 2.8 MPFI
ALUM heads out of an 89 Camaro.will my 2.8 iron heads bolt on that block don't know what the pistons tops are like in there,flat or dished. ive tryed to up load pics?-jpg file 135k????? an resized it.so here it is?the file ive posted that worked-MY Fiero pic page #1- is below,an above is the pic ive tryed to post-2.8 MPFI-.what is the different here,user name an another set of numbers an file size--Medium.jpg[/IMG] are added to it.all so DrFiero/2010-06-17_.how that is there iam not sure.any one got any ides,thanks ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 18 June 2010 at 11:48pm
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Did you see the top post on this page? John (Dr Fiero) re-sized all your HUGE images. That would explain why the "user name an another set of numbers" are now different. Snow Man, save this JPG image to your hard drive and then let's see you upload it to your next post. We need to see if you're uploading the images properly without worrying/wondering if the file itself is somehow incorrect. We know this image file is fine for uploading (as I just did it).
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Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 19 June 2010 at 6:35pm
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all right,ive copyed the AKA-cat pic to my desktop an know i will try to
re/post it!lets see18_234650_cat-smile.jpg"> an this is what happins some times. but was able to post some pics on other post? ill figger it out,thanks ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 20 June 2010 at 12:30am
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Okay, we now know that it isn't necessarily the actual JPG image that's causing the problem. When you try to upload an image from your computer to post in this forum, which icon are you clicking on? It should be the tree with the "up" arrow, the one that says Image Upload when you hover your curser over it.
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Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 20 June 2010 at 8:51pm
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Allright! this seems to work so far,but when i try to upload multiple pics it
wont work,anyhow the pic ive uploaded is the new/used eng ive got to do the RE/RE on the dead one in my car,its a 2.8 an it was free,good price.ive had it a cuppl of days know an have got it apart an can see that it will work,wasnt sure if the block was the same.the crank is in good shape an i have 10 good flat top pistons to choose from.a new set of rod bearings an oil pump an back to gether she goes mith my iron heads,ill do a little more than just that.  [IMG]------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 29 June 2010 at 10:20pm
it was my file EXE,to long
 ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 29 June 2010 at 10:43pm
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I have no idea what you mean, but if you've got it figured out, great!
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 11 November 2010 at 4:15pm
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Oh yeah? How many months has it been now? [EDIT] And "poof", it was gone...
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