Hot Runing 2.8
Printed From: West Coast Fieros
Category: Technical Topics Forum
Forum Name: Technical Questions and Discussions
Forum Description: Got a technical question about your fiero? ask it here.
URL: http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2770
Printed Date: 22 November 2024 at 6:23am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Hot Runing 2.8
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Subject: Hot Runing 2.8
Date Posted: 03 December 2011 at 9:36pm
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Just wanted to up date my overheating problems.there has bin some good advise here an i thank all of you,but i still have overheating problems an will have to fix it,or find it first! an yes ive looked an looked @ Fiero 2.8 overheating problems? an checked the obvious-Vac an there all tight.how i checked is with the Eng running,i pulled each Vac hose off an the Eng-Rpm would change! next,with the Eng running i use O2 from my torch an flooded the top of the motor? no change in rpm? HUM! Free rev it up to 3000-+rpm an the manifolds turn cherry red,all ports do it,not just one or two.I built the motor stock,but did a little porting to the heads an intake,ive red that the Fieros intake is restrictive an should be opened up,so i did,all so what goes in has to come out,so i opened up the Exhaust all so,may be to much? and back to the over heating,only @ idle will it, an just peek on red line coolant temp,rev it a bit an it drops like a rock! back to norm op/tmp.timmeing is set to 10.when it was @15 it was worse,red hot vary quick.so this is why i was wondering about an ELE-12v Circulation Pump for extra coolant flow.an i did find it,Every BUS has one or two of them in them.My Fieros /Eng fires up nice,no strange noises.Exhaust is clear,took it all apart an flow checked,its all good no plugged cat.Ive only put 146k on this car in the 3 years ive had it.i will keep on it until i solve it,thanks for your time. an the pic is inspirational-cheers uploads/ARTIC1/2013-02-19_193516_HOT_Fiero.mov - 2013-02-19_193516_HOT_Fiero.mov -update @ the bottom 
------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Replies:
Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 04 December 2011 at 3:28am
| Is this the magic bus Christopher McCandless "Supertramp" went to? |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 06 December 2011 at 10:40am
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Looks like a nice 5 spoke wheel in the door! Some tires in the middle...gold mine! Maybe I've been watching too much storage wars. To me it sounds like you have two problems. If it were a boat, I'd say your coolant temp at idle issue was a bad impeller, but the same can't be said for the car. It does point to a lack of circulation through the cooling system though. Possible issues:(Not in any order) Bad water pump (partially blocked or broken vanes??) Blockage in the rad, or any of the lines Bad thermostat Idle too low in the first place What happens if you pull the thermostat and let it free flow? The high idle/overheated exhaust sound like a lean issue. Does it happen all the time of just when the engine is warm (IE: Closed loop only, or all the time?). If it happens when warm only the 02 sensor is a likely culprit. Otherwise I'd start by blocking the egr at the intake manifold and see if it makes any difference. If not, I'd put some propane or propylene gas in there to check for a vaccuum leak. I don't think o2 will modify the idle if it gets sucked in there. I've never tried it, but all the posts I've seen use a fuel for testing, not a oxegenator. You could test it by putting the 02 into the throttle body and seeing if it changes the rpm. Other lean culprits: Poor fuel pressure (Definitely check this 1000%) Dirty injectors (All 6?) Extremely low voltage (Affects injector pulse width) Poor ecm grounding (It fires the injectors, so the grounds have to be good) Bad MAP sensor I don't think your porting has anything to do with it. I ran the stock stuff on a 3.4 with ported intake and exhaust and didn't notice any glowing parts. I did have a variable pressure reg set 3-4 psi higher than stock though. One last thing; I have a really hard time reading your posts. Please feel free to use the enter key now and again!! Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 06 December 2011 at 7:14pm
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Thats great info Chay.an yea what i havent looked at is the fuel SYS, an yes Manifolds heats up on warm up real quick.but after its up to normal op, temp it takes a bit more to get them red. ive changed the 02 sensor to a known good one,an the map. Useing the return key,i see what u mean. Fule rail, an injectors came out of a car that sat for 5 years. i should pull an check them,an fule press/reg all so. Some where here its bin done,use diesel an a fule pump a pop jug. than power up each injector for = amounts of time. all should be the same amount of fuel an have the same spray pattern. an the EGR works, at idle,when i lift the plunger on the EGR with my finger the Engine Rpm drops an it picks up a tad of chop,let it go an normal steady idle. I think the fuel system is next,an thanks again Chay ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 06 December 2011 at 8:57pm
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I did an injector check something like that here: http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=162 5&PN=1&TPN=10 It may give you some ideas. Chay PS: Much more readable ... thx. ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 10 July 2012 at 6:04pm
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HI All Another year an my Fiero is 98%.Got new tires an bin out for a cruz!. 350K on to now,an feels great  to drive a tight running car.But i stillhave the temperature problm.seem to fix the hot red hot exhaust thing after i pulled the fuel sys apart an found 2 injectors were toast,replaced them.much better know  but at idle is when it gets hot,an just enfugh to bearly turn on the over Temp light.just tap the gas an it drops like a rock back down to 6:00. let it idle an it climbs to fast,to fast.the last thing i have to do would be to change the water pump,its the org/one? looked good when i did the build,so i put it back in.This is a completely stock 2.8 with an adjustable thermostat-turns the fan on at where ever i set it to. right know its set to come on at about 160/170. an works well.Its the rate that it climbs at-that concerns me its to fast.get it moving an it cools off just as fast as it got hot.All so timing,i set it to 8/deg with the jumper in.then with it out i check it an its jumps up to? about-18 or 20. is that to much or norm.thanks for your time. ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 11 July 2012 at 9:15am
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Except for you saying it works well, I would have guessed fan not turning on. If you have air flow, you must not have water flow, or somehow you are producing enough heat to overcome the normal amount of cooling capability, which I doubt.
You must either have a blockage or the pump can't circulate fluid. I have no idea which it is though. I guess I would be temped to try a new pump. They don't usually fail though, leak yes, but not fail directly.
Maybe a coolant burp issue???
Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 11 July 2012 at 11:06am
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Just thought of one more thing. If you have an IR gun you may be able to track the temp at different spots to tell you what is going on. IE: Hot water is getting to the rad inlet, but not cooling at the outlet etc (plugged rad, inneffective airflow), or hot water is not getting to the rad (pump, thermostat, etc). It's all I can think of to gain some visibility into the system. Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 11 July 2012 at 6:48pm
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Thanks Chay Yea it strange! thats why i posted it,an i think its flow.one thing i did do in the build, on the head gaskets is open up the small holes in the gaskets.to get better coolant flow through the motor. It has to push it a long ways to the rad.an as for air in the cooling system,none its good no air.an i boiled the thermostat,it opened. so last thing is the water pump to change.an i guess ill flush the Rad out,it did sit for 5 years.All so there was the ignition timing thing. will the computer bump it up to 18 to 20 deg at idle,no jumper i set it @ 8deg with jumper in,Take it out,check it and its is so hi i cant tell with my timing light way past the tab-?-20 deg. is this ok. thanks guys ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 11 July 2012 at 7:33pm
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That's normal. |
ARTIC-1 wrote:Posted By: Capt Fiero
Date Posted: 11 July 2012 at 7:46pm
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Check under the car for a kinked pipe, at idle a kinked pipe will slow down the coolent however off idle the pump moves fast enough to overcome a bent pipe. ------------- Capt Fiero 88 Fiero GT 5spd V6 Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd. |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 11 July 2012 at 8:29pm
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Thanks i will do that
------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 19 February 2013 at 7:36pm
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Got a nice camera @ Xmass,just right for at dusk footage. I rev it up to get it hot quick,this is from a cold start,an then as the ENG temp comes up it gets a lot better but dosen't go complty away,still has a GLOW  to it.Allways did this,iam working on it.Theres no footage of somthing like this on Fieros on the net so i thought i would get it on tape befor i fix it,or melt some thing-LOL uploads/ARTIC1/2013-02-19_193516_HOT_Fiero.mov - 2013-02-19_193516_HOT_Fiero.mov ------------- SNOW MAN 87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE 88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED |
Posted By: Kennethrogers
Date Posted: 24 February 2013 at 3:46am
I hope you share some of the footages taken by your wonderful camera? Waiting for some pics |