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Porsche Club AutoX - Saturday, Aug 30th |
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AllanJ ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 28 July 2010 Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Hi Rich!
Thanks for jumping in. I was going from a combo of an obviously foggy memory when you drove a different time with me in the car and then some theories. I forget how long it takes to cut the fuel in my car if you are braking. Didn't seem that long when I tried it. I trailbrake a lot but then again, I'm also used to longer turns at a racetrack right now so my sense of timing is probably biased towards that, and not the shorter turns in autox. Patrick, keep us posted on what you do. I'm always curious. ![]() Cheers, Allan |
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karnak ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 August 2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 349 |
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Welcome Rich!
as you can see, your run made the best video for quality, although not your fastest run by far, but does show a nice line and driving skill. i enjoyed watching the car go around. i really had a great time! ![]() |
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Patrick ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 19 April 2008 Location: Vancouver Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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You're smooth Rich, very smooth... I didn't even notice. I'm curious about trying out this left foot braking now. I'll see whether an old dog can learn a new trick.
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Rich Sandor ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 September 2014 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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I was doing it in the Fiero. I LFB in any car that I'm
racing. (no need in street car..) And the newer cars respond quite well to it - as long as you're not trying to overlap too much throttle w/ gas. I LFB in the new corvettes and 911s and it doesn't upset the computers at all. |
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Patrick ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 19 April 2008 Location: Vancouver Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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... Hey Rich, welcome to our little corner of the automotive universe. I don't recall seeing you doing the left foot braking when driving my Fiero during course setup/testing. Were you doing it, and I simply missed it, or is left foot braking something you only do in cars you're familar with? Edited by Patrick |
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Patrick ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 19 April 2008 Location: Vancouver Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Gary and I will keep our eyes open for a large abandoned paved area.
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Rich Sandor ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 September 2014 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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The hardest part for me was remembering to go back to normal braking when entering the stop box. Otherwise your left foot is committed to the brakes and there's no way to clutch in... = stall! It takes time to learn, for sure, and for ME, it is faster. However I have seen data for GT drivers in the same car, getting the same times with and without LFB.. however I'm not sure either was going as fast as humanly possible. The advantage is multiplied on a course with more corners (like autox) and not as noticeable on a course with few corners. However, I still think LFB has the potential to be faster. It's undeniably advantageous on older cars with big turbo lag.. I mostly wanted to weigh in because on the previous autocross I was bitching about Gary's 9146 understeering, but I didn't have the problem this time around. I noticed Al mention that perhaps I wasn't trail-braking.. the thing I realized is that I *was* trail-braking, but I was starting too late and carrying too much speed.. the car just wouldn't turn in. This time I was braking earlier and smoother and that let me carry more momentum into the corners. |
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Capt Fiero ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Founding Member Joined: 12 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 4039 |
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I have kept quite in these autocross threads, but thought this to be slightly funny. If you grew up driving in the 60's/70's or just had older cars in the 80s you probably got experience with left foot braking when you came to a stop on a cold day. Fighting to keep that carb'ed car from stalling at stop lights. One foot slightly on the gas and left food modulating the brake as you came to a stop.
I also read on another autocross group of some of the problems with left foot braking, can be loss of engine vacuum. If your right foot never comes off the gas, especially in turbo cars, (yes even with boost check valves) you may not close the throttle enough for the engine to make enough vacuum to replenish the brake boosters vacuum supply. Then losing your brakes. IIRC a number of years ago there was a woman in a Corvette at the Boundary Bay area lost control of her car and lost braking, either went into the crowd or staging area, I can't completely remember the details. So just a few things to think about when it comes to left foot braking. |
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Capt Fiero
88 Fiero GT 5spd V6 Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd. |
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AllanJ ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 28 July 2010 Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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There is a way to have you do a sweeper over and over
again, but it'll cost you a lot of money to book the track. ![]() I do have about 20 cones.... ![]() Re: left foot braking: IMHO, don't bother. It's a skill that takes a long time to learn properly. Over the years of driving you have done, you have developed a super sensitive touch to your right foot when on the gas and brakes. Your left foot just goes in/out on the clutch. The time it takes to develop a sensitive left foot can be quite long. Some modern cars like mine (2004), don't respond well to left foot braking. You can go on the brakes for about a second or two before the fuel is cut off. So trying to use both pedals for any length of time won't work on a newer car. Kids who grow up racing carts learn left foot braking at a young age and can carry that skill to race cars and do extremely well. They will be faster than an old fart like me or you. ![]() learn it but thinking about it more, you may want to play with it if you're curious. Try it when you drive to work, but with nobody close behind you. lol! That pro autox guy I mentioned a while back said that if an experienced autox driver tried to learn left foot braking, expect to be slow for a full year before seeing any benefit. This is also with a much longer racing season that you are currently running now (and tons of practice on the street). Yes, getting alignments can be costly. Make some decisions and get it sorted, man! ![]() |
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Patrick ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 19 April 2008 Location: Vancouver Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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...which is why the BCCC autocross a few weeks ago was rather invigorating when we were entering the stop box at 115 km/h! Al, you've gone over a ton of helpful stuff. Thanks so much. Gary commented that Rich seems to plays tricks with his feet while driving the course. He uses his left foot to brake so as to reserve his right foot for GO duty. Is there some value to learning this technique, or is there a danger of over-complicating things? One thing I haven't mentioned during any of this discussion of my handling issues is the fact that I've never had the wheels properly aligned on my Formula at a shop. Edited by Patrick |
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AllanJ ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 28 July 2010 Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Rich is a great driver. He has great balance when it comes to drifting too. I suck by comparison. lol!
Indeed! ![]() speed of autocross is about 60km/h so the car control skills you learn here are directly applicable to city street driving. Skills you learn here can save your bacon! ![]() |
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karnak ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 August 2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 349 |
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![]() ya.. sorry about the noise. I promise I will work on that Rich was keenly interested in how I was driving and carefully watched what I was doing. when it was his turn, he performed maneuvers with the car I did not seem were do-able. by the end of the day, I had applied some bits here and there. he drove it well. the mid engine design car (Fieros, etc..), I believe can be set up well but the driver is indeed the biggest variable. we all need to get out there and apply what we know and be observant. we had old American muscle, all wheel drive, and even an old Volvo there, all swaying to those cones in their own ways. they all were impressive in their own ways. (and if you are still reading this and it does not sound like Bla, Bla, Bla.. then please consider coming to the next event. all these words can be boiled down to some simple things that will help anybody drive more soundly) it is fun stuff! ![]() |
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AllanJ ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 28 July 2010 Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Cool! My ears are bleeding and I feel sea-sick, but cool! ![]() |
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AllanJ ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 28 July 2010 Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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No problem.
![]() This is all general "performance" driving knowledge that I've been mentioning to Gary over time but it still takes a while for everything to gel in your head. It took me a while! One more example from when I was there last time: Rich drove the 914 and felt it understeered. He couldn't get it to turn in without plowing. Gary felt the same way. I was a bit surprised because I thought the car was fairly balanced. So I adjusted the shocks to move the balance a bit so the front had more grip (and the rear had less grip). When I drove the car at lunch, the car sucked! It was oversteering horribly in linked turns. So I undid my change and put the car back the way it was. What was going on between me and Rich? Rich asked me how I got the car to turn in nicely when all he dealt with was understeer. I'll go back to my previous post about weight transfer and grip levels front to rear. When Rich drives the car, he has a tendency to get all the braking done in a straight line before the turn, and then gets off the brakes quite quickly and is back on the gas. So what's going to happen is he enters the turn either neutral weight or even rear-weighted. What are the tires doing? You will have less than desired grip up front and with a light front end (on a mid-engined car), you will often get understeer. Not much weight on those front tires and it's hard to turn. What do I do? I "trailbrake" into the turn. I'll dive into a turn, braking fairly late. By the time I'm ready to begin my turn, I'm still going too fast to make the turn without sliding, so I need to keep applying the brakes. Applying the brakes moves the weight to the front, giving more pressure to the front tires, giving them more grip. No understeer for me and the car is rotating just fine! But as I increase the steering input, I'm taking away from my overall grip levels because the car needs tire grip to turn. So as I feed in more steering, I'm REDUCING the brake level. Simplified summary of tire grip distribution: Braking in a straight line: 100% Turning: 0% Starting turn with 10% steering 90% braking Getting into turn with 25% steering 75% braking Mid-turn 50% steering: 50% braking Max turn angle 100% 0% braking - completely off brakes now because I'm using all my potential grip to turn Time to accelerate out of the turn, reverse of the above Unwind wheel to 90% turn level: 10% gas Unwind wheel to 50% steering 50% gas Out of turn at 0% steering input 100% gas That kind of thing. ![]() For Gary's car, I'd rather it be set up the way I drive it because I believe (and so does every car manufacturer that sells cars in countries that have lawyers) an understeering car is safer. You don't want to make an emergency maneuver on the highway to avoid some debris and end up in a spin! Also, if you have to make an emergency turn to avoid something, chances are you'll instinctively lift off the throttle or get on the brakes and then turn the wheel - an understeering car responds perfectly to this situation. One other thing: when I first autocrossed my GT3 I was understeering everywhere because I drove it wrong. I was overslowing for a turn and then back on the gas at the start of a turn, when I wanted to rotate the car. It's very hard to turn a 911 when only 1/3 of the overall weight is at the front and you are artificially making that be even less because you're on the gas at turn entry. So I'd be plowing through cones all the time. Race like crazy to the next turn - and mow down more cones. It was brutal. It wasn't until I understood weight transfer and how it affects grip levels that I finally drove the car better. Weight transfer is key. Understand how that works and how it affects grip levels and you're well on your way. Edited by AllanJ |
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karnak ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 August 2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 349 |
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Here are a couple more links to some runs but please turn down your speakers...
![]() https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9awv5Ww2lc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Le1Fjb-ofQ |
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Patrick ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 19 April 2008 Location: Vancouver Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Wow, lots there to take in! Let me come back tonight after I've had a chance to digest it all. Thanks Al.
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AllanJ ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 28 July 2010 Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Hey Patrick,
I know you want to learn so that's why the peanut gallery spoke up. :) Kudos to you. As my video in the post above showed, a simple lift when you have plenty of steering wheel input is all you need to spin. This is what you did. A lift moves the weight transfer to the front, unloading the rear tires a bit and then they can come loose. That's why you want to get most of your turning done before the apex of the turn so at the apex you are unwinding the wheel (reducing steering demands) while getting on the gas. Getting on the gas moves the weight transfer to the rear, giving you more grip at the rear. This also reduces the weight at the front, giving you less grip up front. Good thing you are unwinding the wheel then. Think of when you don't do this.....what happens? Think of "understeer"; that horrible shuddering or plowing coming out of a turn where you want to get down the straight and are on the gas a bit but your car isn't turning and you mow down some cones at the exit of the sweeper. To help control the understeer or oversteering traits of your car in a turn, you need to fully understand these issues. So in the case of your spin in that tight sweeper, you had more turning to do at the start of the spin (you didn't want to hit that cone at the exit) - so you didn't have enough grip at the rear for that speed and the spin showed you had plenty of grip up front (car "oversteered"; steered too much!). The ideal line there was to get slowed down a bit more at turn entry and get the car rotated more during entry so you could accelerate out of the turn. You simply carried too much speed into the turn and lifted or coasted through the turn while feeding in a ton of steering. The combo was too much for your tires. For tire pressures, you need to play with them. Generally speaking, higher pressures are required for heavier cars, but IIRC I ran 34psi at the rears of my car and it's several hundred pounds heavier than yours. Factory wanted 39psi for the rear of my car for street. That wasn't where the grip was at autox. The race track is different and I run 38psi there with the tires I use. Try dropping the rear pressure a few lbs. The ideal method is to align your car and tune the tire pressure so the temperatures are equal left/centre/right on the tire tread under hard cornering. This shows the tire tread on the outside tires are flat on the asphalt in a hard corner. You need a pyrometer for this and a helper to take the temps immediately after loading the tires and getting them hot. I have a pyrometer. ![]() You might be better served with a slightly stiffer front suspension, but be careful here. A novice mistake is to think stiffer is better. Body roll is fine, as long as it isn't hindering your cornering. If you are hitting the suspension bump stops in a turn, that's bad. Mild roll is fine, and good for the undulating pavement at the skidpad. Especially for the street and a racetrack like ORP. Too stiff and you'll be demanding a ton from your tires and will "skip" across undulations in the pavement, and this lack of grip isn't good. When I was at ORP last time, it was really hot and my grip in the morning sucked. So I softened the shocks and the grip went up a lot and I eventually set a new personal best lap time. Remember what I did; I softened the suspension! Gary is right though. Do one thing at a time so you can better learn how these changes affect the car. I can type and type and type, but if you are anything like me then you will learn best by living it rather than reading it. Keep what I'm saying in the back of your mind and next time you're out there, pay close attention to the car and what it's doing, early in the day. Really learn what it's doing. Cause and Effect kinda thing. Cheers, Allan |
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AllanJ ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 28 July 2010 Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Good. Keep this in mind for the future. Next time this situation comes up you will be more aware about shift timing.
Don't I know it! ![]() at ORP with hot tires and lifting off the throttle in a turn that has elevation change. Video Link Normally I catch these things but this time I didn't. haha!
A tighter line is a shorter distance which often equates to a lower time. You always need to balance adding distance to requiring carrying much more speed to make up for that extra distance. The more times you have a clear example like this that you experience for yourself, the better. These issues will stick with you and what you'll find down the road is that rather than noticing and correcting issues like this in run #8, you will adapt in run #5...#3, etc. Soon you'll be like other very experienced drivers where you will recognize and adapt your driving right away. ![]() Edited by AllanJ |
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Patrick ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 19 April 2008 Location: Vancouver Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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I'm seriously considering buying a remote audio recorder, such as can be seen discussed HERE. If I get one, I plan to construct a bracket to mount by the rear license plate to hold the recorder in during autocross. I have found in the past (using those cheap little eBay thumb-sized cameras) that audio recorded back there is perfect. The sound of the engine/exhaust and squealing tires comes through loud and clear with NO wind noise. It's... beautiful. It's a relatively simple matter during the editing process to match up the recorded audio file to the appropriate video file. So that frees up where the camera can be mounted big time, as wind noise would no longer be an issue. Hallelujah!
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Patrick ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: 19 April 2008 Location: Vancouver Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Peanut gallery comments are more than welcome. Some sensitive folk can't tolerate constructive criticism. I encourage it! ![]()
I don't believe I touched the brakes at all once I was in the sweep. I try to commit to whatever speed I'm at once I've entered a turn (after having hopefully slowed downed enough prior to entering it). However, I suspect I am guilty of lifting off on the throttle a bit too much at possibly inappropriate times (which is probably taboo for a mid/rear engined car). I often think it would be quite educational to have a second camera trained at my feet so I could see for sure what the heck I was doing at any particular time.
I find it rather confusing to actually find the best tire air pressure, other than to rely on chalking the tires and/or using the little indicators on the sidewalls. I try to adjust the air pressure so the tire tread doesn't roll beyond the specified point. With the '84, 28/front and 27/rear seemed to work best. Using the same tires/wheels on the '88, it's now 33/front and 34/rear. I'm a little puzzled why the pressure needs to be so much diferent, but I attribute that to the fact that the '88 is heavier... with the bulk of that extra weight in the back (the V6 as opposed to to the 4-banger).
Now granted the '84 with the duke didn't have the same power, but dammit, I felt comfortable going into corners. I don't feel this way with the Formula, even though it has the superior '88 factory suspension. The '84 felt much more balanced. When it started to lose traction in a turn, it would tend to just to drift sideways as opposed to having the ass end come around. Now that was after adding a rear sway bar and stiffening all four corners with two coils cut off all springs. The ride was stiff, but I loved it. The car felt predictable. Don't get me wrong, I really enjoy driving the '88, but I don't feel the same measure of comfort going into corners. Yes, I may be going faster now when approaching a corner, and I certainly brake hard to slow down, but I continue to feel like I'm hanging on for dear life in every high speed turn. I enjoy the thrill, but this doesn't equate with getting around the track any faster. Despite my frustration, I am having fun. I'd just like to maximize my potential, whether that be fine tuning my driving... or my car. I have a set of The Fiero Store's lowering springs on the '88. I like the stance, and the ride certainly isn't soft, but it's nowhere near as stiff as the '84... and I'd like it to be. I can feel the '88 rolling a bit when turning sharp and I'd like to get rid of that. There are factory sway bars front and back, with zero lash end-links and poly sway bar bushings in the front. The rear has the factory rubber bushings in the sway bar and end-links. Both cars have basically the same struts/shocks. Gary has convinced me to change one thing at a time (so at least I'll know what has or hasn't made a difference). I'm thinking that installing stiffer springs in the front is the way to go, especially when keeping in mind the way the ass end swings around. The stiffer front springs would reduce the roll, and hopefully help to keep the rear of the car behind me where it belongs. So Allan, please continue to comment on anything to do with my driving or of the car if you think it might be helpful. I value and appreciate everything you've had to say, and I promise my ego won't be bruised no matter what you might wish to add. Edited by Patrick |
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