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Patrick
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| Posted: 29 July 2010 at 11:15pm | IP Logged
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So, are you sharpening your skills on the Fiero so that you can use them on the tractor? 
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 04 August 2010 at 10:28pm | IP Logged
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Well I got the exhaust installed and trunk all patched up and finished and that is all fine and dandy.
But now I think theres something wrong in the transmission.
I got a permit today and started driving around and it is really really sluggish when I start moving. The SES light came on I believe when it was shifting while going uphill.
It seems like there is a lot of slippage in the transmission, it takes much longer to get going when its uphill.
Any ideas? I will hopefully get to borrow a scantool tomorrow so I can run the codes and see what the computer has to say. I also couldnt get the speedo working so wonder if its possible the sensors not working, would that cause any isssues like this?
Here's a video I took today with the exhaust installed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-685gWXNsb0
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Dr.Fiero
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North Delta
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| Posted: 05 August 2010 at 6:12am | IP Logged
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Save me having to read numerous pages... what trans?
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 05 August 2010 at 6:54am | IP Logged
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4t60e from the 1995 oldsmobile 88 obd1.
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Dr.Fiero
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North Delta
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| Posted: 05 August 2010 at 8:17am | IP Logged
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Yeah, GOTTA pull those codes!
I have a chart if you can.
If you have no VSS input to the ECM, it'll have no idea if you're moving (etc) so it'll definitely cause shifting issues.
Luckily you only had a day permit, or I was going to say "Stop driving it!" before you really toast the thing.
The wiring - is it 100% from the donor car, as is the ECM etc?
94/95 was a very strange time for GM, and a LOT of changes were going on. Fair warning - it's probably OBD1.5 (the connector could be a 12 or 16 pin connector - and MOST scan tools won't read it).
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Patrick
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| Posted: 05 August 2010 at 9:23am | IP Logged
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Or is that an old truck in the background (with probably its engine in the foreground)?
Patrick wrote:
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So, are you sharpening your skills on the Fiero so that you can use them on the tractor? |
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 07 August 2010 at 11:37pm | IP Logged
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That's the "other truck" in the background. The engine is for yet another truck that might get restored eventually. It's all my dads WWII stuff, we take the good truck to quite a few events every year and sets up displays. Most of the time it lives at their museum on CFB chilliwak.
I had the codes checked yesterday and it was in fact the VSS not feeding the PCM, causing it to go into limp mode and stay in second gear. I did reroute all the wires in the engine bay and to the computer and tested them all following the pin outs on the gmtuners site and everything checked out.
Looking again at the VSS plug, I connected pin A and B where it said to put them but the colors were opposite. Today I switched them around but have yet to test them since I'm all out of tranny fluid after changing the filter.
I also fixed the CV boot clamp that popped off and sprayed goo everywhere and installed the temp sensor from the 2.8 so I can have a working water temp gauge.
Tomorrow I will test it again and see if swapping VSS wires fixes the issues or if the VSS itself is faulty in which case I will grab a spare or 2 from pick-a-part on our way out to chilliwak.
And here is a quick phone video with exhaust installed, I have yet to make a better video that includes more than just idling .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-685gWXNsb0
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Dr.Fiero
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| Posted: 08 August 2010 at 8:53am | IP Logged
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Just yank the VSS, and spin it up with a drill while watching the speedo and your scan tool (to make sure they're BOTH seeing it!).
I hate CV grease. Bleah. That sh*t gets everywhere, and is like spray on glue!
Oh yeah, and if you don't see a reading on the computer or speedo, hook your volt meter up (on AC) to the vss and spin it up again. At least then you'll know if it's the unit, or the wiring.
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 09 August 2010 at 8:12pm | IP Logged
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There's nothing really to spin on the VSS, it's just s solid cylinder with a magnet.
But I did hook it up to a voltmeter while pulling it close and far to something magnetic and was getting a reading with the original VSS.
And I am stumped, replaced the VSS with one from pick-a-part, (I got a few spares as well) and no change, I hooked up a volt meter to the VSS wires at the ECM plug and spun the wheel by hand and it got a reading. I tried switching the wires since then and no change. When I had the scantool, we drove down the block and it was getting no signal at all from the VSS.
I also opened up the ECM case and took out the circuit board and inspected it for any broken links and found nothing.
I really don't know what else it could be, I emailed Ryan at GMtuners since he programmed my chip for his input but in the meantime, anyone got any more ideas?
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Romeo
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| Posted: 09 August 2010 at 9:27pm | IP Logged
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Grab an electrical diagram if you can, then that should help you pinpoint exactly where your fault lies.
__________________
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-There's no 'u' either, so if I'm not on the team, and you're not on the team, NO ONE'S ON THE TEAM.
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 09 August 2010 at 10:18pm | IP Logged
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I have the diagrams for my engine but out of an olds ninety-eight instead of the 88 but it's all been the same so far except the purple and yellow wires are in the opposite spots in the VSS plug.
I have traced the entire length of wires sensor to the ECM with no problems.
The only thing I have left to try is one of the speed sensors i grabbed from the junkyard had the yellow and purple wires reversed in pins A and B. I don't expect that to change anything but I might as well give it a try. I am pretty sure my original VSS worked anyway and the problem lies elsewhere.
If I were to connect the VSS directly to the speedo as it was stock, would the speedo do something? Just to make sure a proper signal is coming from the VSS down the wires. I know it wouldn't be accurate anyway because of the 4000/2000ppm thing but would it do something?
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 17 August 2010 at 9:19pm | IP Logged
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So I have done everything else and decided there is something wrong with the ECM. So off to pick-a-part again this weekend and hope there is a superchaged series 1 car with the ECM still in there.
I found a nice intake hose last time I was there off a '91 pontiac 6000 that is almost a perfect fit. One end just needed a little modifying to fit over the airbox outlet because it was too small but otherwise fits great. I have a picture on my camera but that is in langley at the moment so I will get that on later this week.
I am currently working on a stronger alternator bracket since my current one has too much flex in it and make me worry about the lifespan of the alternator with all its wobbliness. Borrowing a cutting torch from work tomorrow so I can cut the steel plate I have for it.
I have also been trying to figure out what I can to for a dog bone mount or equivalent.
This is what I had on one of the transmission mounts. I took it off today and it seems pretty worn. I plan on replacing it with a steel rod with an adjustable stop and see if that has much of an affect on engine movement.
Here's a short video of the movement that happens just when shifting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdW_mbdkLI8
One of these days I will take a video with an actual camera and not just the iphone.
Hopefully tomorrow I will get the alt bracket and mount modifications done.
I was down in Washington all weekend but have Septembers meeting marked on the calender so I will be there hopefully with a driveable fiero this time.
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Romeo
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| Posted: 17 August 2010 at 10:34pm | IP Logged
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For the dog bone mount, is it at all possible to simply modify a Fiero dog bone into what you need?
__________________
-There's no 'I' in team.
-There's no 'u' either, so if I'm not on the team, and you're not on the team, NO ONE'S ON THE TEAM.
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 18 August 2010 at 9:42pm | IP Logged
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Well I could use the "U" piece that bolts to the dogbone, but I would have to fab up the rest of the bracket down the the cylinder head. That was my first plan, my dad suggested the torque rod down low. So if that doesn't work, I'll build a dogbone up top.
Today I did get that torque bar done and installed, no pics and i will have to finish my alternator mount before I can test it again but it looks pretty good so far. It is still adjustable if I need to change it.
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D_sensitized
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| Posted: 23 August 2010 at 10:14pm | IP Logged
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I figured out my problem!
The little metal sockets at the end of each wire inside the ECM plug were bent just a little bit wider. So when it was plugged into the ECM, it wasn't actually contacting the pin inside. bent it right and all was good, not a very easy thing to track down...
Here is a picture of my beefed up Alternator bracket I finished this week.
And here is the intake hose I am using from a '91 pontiac 6000
After some more test driving around another code popped up after about 20 minutes riding around. Don't remember the number but its the sensor circuit for the O2 sensor. Could be in the wiring, could be the sensor itself but I will check that tomorrow. I had a permit today and it ran fine so I was too busy playing with it to work on it. 
There is a bit of a shutter in the right rear wheel area. I notice it more on tight left turns. The rotor also binds in the caliper in one spot on that wheel but I've ruled out the rotor itself so I may need to replace the hub. Could it also be the axle?
While I still thought it was my ECM that was broken and then that it was something in my wiring that was breaking them I now have 2 spare ECMs- one with a N/A prom and one with the SC if anyone wants a series 1 ECM.
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West Coast Fieros Forum : Build Threads
Topic: My 3800 SC1 swap
