Transmission problems?

Alright so today I was on my way to go pick up some
Evercoat adhesive/filler for the decklid, on 208th going
up the hill towards the overpass, and go to shift into
second.

Nothing.

I pump the clutch in neutral like a madman, since I'm in
traffic, still nothing. Eventually muscle it into 3rd( :(
) and have to redline to even get it going to get off the
road, onto a side street. I turn off the engine, wait a
bit, turn it back on. Shifts perfectly fine, I head home.
But I hit another hill, same thing happens.

I'm thinking it's related to my previous problems where
my clutch won't dis-engage, perhaps a large air bubble?

Any help would be great, my Insurance runs out on the
14th, so I've got time to work on it with what limited
knowledge I have, but I welcome any help.

1) 5 sp Getrag
2) I don't think they are loose becuase I've been driving
with no problems until today. But I'm not sure where to
look to what you're referring to.. I don't know much about
car mechanicd.

3) I've never had to press to the floor to shift, It's
actually quite easy, probably not even half way.

I'm hoping it's just the fluid, I discussed my clutch
engaging problem with a member at the last meeting, and it
seemed to him to be an air bubble.

I think I'll get all the fluids bled and changed, rebuild
the shifter, and buy new slave/master cylinder. Might as
well get the e-brake cables/arm installed when it's at the
mechanics.

The two rebuild kits you list will help take out a bit of slop in the shifter, but probably won't fix any issues.

Is the fluid for the clutch actually low? The only way it can go down is if something is leaking.

I have a bleeder system if interested to borrow...and I have the console rebuild kit if interested from RD, I also have a new clutch pedal and RD bushing depending on your setup.

This is a nice Fiero Clutch Line Repair Kit upgrade from RD: http://www.rodneydickman.com/retail.html

If you are updating, maybe consider MOTUL, go here and look up your year as I was not sure: http://ew5.earlweb.com/search.php?subset=243&category=6& amp;sector=9&site=41&region=59&language=7&br and=45

Or ATE Blue...of more street this is best, MOTUL if your creating more heat in racing applications: http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/us/en/ate/ate/themes/20_ ate_brake_products/brake_fluid/bf_info_us.html

Good luck...need to rebuild mine soon

 

Arn't you out near Fort Langley.  If you are, I would drive your Fiero up to Euphoria Chocolates buy a coffee and some junkfood, ask for Blair.  See if he'll sit down with you for a bit, explain what your car is doing and see if he might be able to take it for a test ride.  Blair is one of the 3 best Fiero mechanics in the lower mainland.  He chose to get out of Fiero's but I still trust him with just about anything Fiero related.

I am no expert but certainly have learn't from many off this club...and I have had major upgraded to my clutch/trans.  David is right, need to see what the problem is unless you want to do a full rebuild, maybe all you need is a good bleeder system and a good flush...try to reach Blair if you are in Langley...tell him I am still waiting for his new email address...lol

 

I've read your symptoms and regardless of what the cause is, the
cheapest, easiest thing to do is bleed the clutch line. Bleeding a
Fiero clutch line is somewhat of an art form it seems. The best way
is using a good power bleeder. You need to totally flush the fluid for
best results. This insures that all the air IN THE LINE is gone.

There could still be air in the slave cylinder which is where the art
plays a part. Voodoo magic works good too...:)

Honestly, do this before you try anything else. There is a very good
chance it will fix your problem.

Dawg

As I have offered...don't spend the money when someone else has:)...PM and I would be willling to come out with my bleeder system ( http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=200 9&KW=bleeder&PN=0&TPN=3 )

Cheers...