Clutch Fun

Sooooo,

I got my car running well again today after some small hurdles...

Now kind of a big hurdle. My new 6-pack clutch won't disengage. I used a clutchnet clutch with the original pressure plate and throwout etc. Everything seemed to go together well.

I'm getting a full 2.5cm (1 inch) on the slave so that seems pretty good. It is extremely repedative and does not bleed down if held.

The clutch doesn't pickup lots of friction until the pedal is halfway out, but it will not fully release at fully in. It will not allow gear engagement at idle in first or reverse.

The pedal feels stiff initially, then eases up at the end of the stroke. It feels like this is the pressure plate characteristic, rather than the hydraulics.

I'm done for tonight, but if anyone has any kernels of wisdom, now is the time!

Chay

Edited by CFoss

CFoss wrote: I plan to limit the travel of the clutch pedal somehow to get me into the sweet spot.

Make an adjustable clutch master banjo. The 5/16"-18 threaded coupler will cost about $1.50 at Home Depot. Works great to either increase or decrease the throw.

Edited by Patrick

Well, did the mod, shortened the pushrod between 1/2 and 3/4" and now it's perfect. It doesn't go to far, and it picks up torque when the pedal is about 1/2" up from the floorboard which is right where I like it.


Thanks you so much Patrick!


Chay

Chay, since I helped solve your clutch problem, it now seems only fair that you help solve my clutch problem.

Have a look Here.

Hey, I'm open to suggestions on this from anyone! 

 

From your thread:

 

"I unbolted the slave.

I grabbed the arm of the clutch fork.

It moves very easily."

It should move easliy in the disengage direction, but in the engage direction is should hit the spot where the throw out hits the fingers of the pressure plate and be VERY difficult to move by hand after that. If not, there are internal issues.

"Of course this doesn't tell me what the clutch fork movement is like when it's pushed another inch or so against the clutch pressure plate fingers."

So from this statement I assume that you in fact have this situation, that it hardens up when the throw out hits the pres plate.

"I put it back together and drove the car a short distance tonight. I didn't feel it binding, but I did hear it "clack" behind me a couple times as I released the clutch. Something is slightly hanging up somewhere.

So, where does does this leave me now? Any ideas?"

So, where exactly, during the clutch throw, does it feel like it's binding...on the way in or on the way out or both? Does it happen in the same spot in and out?

 

It's tough to try and troubleshoot stuff that's inside from what is outside. It's very frustrating and I feel your pain.

My only experience with clutch fork stuff is that I bent one to the point of breaking. I had to remove the trans of course, then I welded it up so strong that it will not ever break again.

Did you install a new pressure plate with the clutch or anything??

 

 

Chay

Edited by CFoss

So, does the pedal stop pushing on you then, like it's hanging up on the way out?

 

It's hard to imagine, with the forces involved, that the throw out would hang up, so clutch fork bent/slipped/broken or clutch fork bushings messed up?

 

I would guess you would feel the bushings when you moved the clutch release handle though.

 

My new clutch is really grabby, but it doesn't bind though. I don't really know what to tell you. Does the lever/cup seem to be in allignment with the pushrod from the slave when it contacts the fingers(Is the cup rotating as to bind the rod?)?

Not really sure.

 

 

Chay

I was thinking...do you know if the fork 'tines' contact the throw out bearing evenly, thus holding the throw out straight?

I was thinking if one got bent it would allow the throw out to torque off linearly on the shaft, causing it to bind.

Just a shot in the dark.

Chay

Yeah. That's a nice amount of scoring on the inside of the pressure plate.

 

Who knows what could have happened.

 

C