slaves and masters

No its not a game .... or ?????? but

Whats the slave of choice on an 85 2m4 with the isuzu 5 speed

Need to get a good one or a new one

Any advise will help in regard to cost and source.

will be checking lordco tomorrow

thanks

 Yep you have no choice the only slave that will work on an Isuzu is the Isuzu Slave, and the good doctor just happens to have bought a few of them.

Speaking of slave cylinders, just finished doing a bleed yesterday, and after making it worse, I think I've only gotten it as stiff as what it was when it started (Not the brick wall it was when David and I installed my new clutch, sadly...)

This is the procedure listed on AllData:

1. Fill supply tank with suitable brake fluid.
2. Remove floor mat or any other object which may impede full travel of clutch pedal.
3. Back out bleed screw on slave cylinder until fluid can be pumped out (approximatel 1/2 turn).
4. Depress clutch pedal fully, then apply three short, rapid strokes.
5. Release pressure to allow clutch pedal to return quickly to its stop.
6. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until all air has been released from bleed screw.
7. Close bleed screw immediately following last downward stroke of pedal when air bubbles no longer appear.
   
   Is that correct?

I would add one step to the procedure that Dave has posted.

After opening the slave bleeder valve, grab the slave rod with vicegrips and push the slave piston in as far as you can, and wedge a piece of wood or whatever to hold it there during the gravity bleed.

When the bleed is done, close the bleeder valve and slowly allow the piston/rod to position itself back into the clutch lever on the tranny.

This extra step gets rid of air trapped in the slave itself.

Dawg wrote: Normally I would agree with this Patrick, but in this case, the air bubbles should migrate to the bleeder side of the slave automatically because the car is leaned over.

Sure, they "should" migrate.

When bleeding Fiero clutch hydraulics, every little bit helps!

You do it your way, I'll do it mine. And Tristan can decide for himself how he chooses to do it.

Tristan, because you won't be sucking air into the system (which necessitates yet more bleeding) using the gravity bleed method, you shouldn't need a lot of fluid. Obviously you want at least enough to fully flush the system if the old fluid is cruddy.

Of course, this is also based on the assumption that your connections are tight and your seals are in acceptable condition, thus not allowing air to be drawn into the system as soon as you start using the clutch normally.

There are probably more threads at Pennock's addressing clutch hydraulic issues than any other single tech topic.

Good luck!

I should be here from 2pm till 5pm, if you wanted to stop by and I'll help you with the gravity bleed.