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New Owner 86se, few questions

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Patrick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2010 at 1:02pm

Originally posted by Dr.Fiero Dr.Fiero wrote:

I see!  Got jacked to 150kb.

That's right. Spare no expense, we're big time now!

 

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cam2510 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2010 at 5:16pm
that's kinda embarrassing






there is my first vandalism attack, key to the trunk. and the only other real damage minus the crappy front bumper is the crack in side skirt drivers side.







very clean interior, typical sun expanded rubber on the console though

pretty and red but dirty... dirtiest engine compartment i have ever seen only takes a few hours on the road
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2010 at 7:27pm
Run 0W-20 for a little while and watch how dirty in gets post blow-by.
Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2010 at 8:31pm

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

Run 0W-20 for a little while and watch how dirty in gets post blow-by.

... ???

 

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Dawg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2010 at 9:26pm

Patrick....he's been sniffin' glue again hasn't he?


DG

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

Run 0W-20 for a little while and watch how dirty in gets post blow-by.
You dream it up....I'll make it
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2010 at 9:41pm

Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:


Patrick....he's been sniffin' glue again hasn't he?

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

Run 0W-20 for a little while and watch how dirty in gets post blow-by.

Something about that boy just isn't quite right.

 

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Capt Fiero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2010 at 10:44pm
LOL, though, if you did run 0w20 in a Fiero, for any lenght of time, the engine bay would look like a grease pit in short order, due to both compression blow by from to thin of oil and oil leakage from every seal in the motor.  (unless the motor was a fresh rebuild) 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2010 at 4:30pm
so that would test the rebuild status then? would it really harm the motor?
right now 10w30 every 3000k its dark but not black and lost about a half litre depending on how hard im hammering on it this last one was the first with a small amount of lucas synthetic stabiliser and only second change since ownership.
I have to do a oil change next month but im going on a trip should i wait till after im back?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2010 at 4:56pm

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

so that would test the rebuild status then? would it really harm the motor?

Don't do it!

Tristan (Romeo) was just kidding around, but perhaps he should not make jokes like this to someone who's new here and who might take the comments literally.

Bad Tristan, bad...

Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

Run 0W-20 for a little while and watch how dirty in gets post blow-by.
... ???

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2010 at 7:05pm

Maybe I should have stated what I said a bit diffrently too, 0-20 will kill a Fiero engine.

If you are burning 1/2 liter of oil per 3000k and it is comming out dirty, (not black, but not clean looking)  I would really be hesitant on what was done as to a rebuild.  Your first check to see a basic upgrade is the rockers, remove the oil fill cap and peak in the hole, or feel in the hole for the rocker arm, a stock cheap rocker will have a smooth side at the tip area, a better roller tip or full roller rocker will have a shaft at the very least in the tip and a full roller will have a shaft in the side as well.    

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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 5:50am
it has the shaft in tip don't feel anything in the side but still has a smooth side full length, doesn't seem clean (finger came out black) inside but checked the oil and since the Lucas was added (try recondition gaskets&seals)its lost only 1/4 liter oil per 3000 km. also talked with previous owner and he says the engine probably has some premature wear due to not being conditioned yearly after sitting for 10 (also sounded like he wanted out of the conversation fairly badly so might be a sign of deceit). Dunno what to think of this car better yet the guy who sold it to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 10:07am

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

Dunno what to think of this car better yet the guy who sold it to me.

There are a few honest people, but realistically, you can't believe anything you're told by the seller of a car.

I'm always dubious of claims, for example, of a "new" clutch. So many used cars on the market (with manual trannys) are advertised as having a "new" clutch. When you dig a little deeper you find out that the clutch was indeed "new"... five years ago (or longer)!

Kind of similar to the following...

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

fresh rebuild on motor...

Originally posted by cam2510 cam2510 wrote:

I talked with the gentleman out of Courtney who rebuilt the engine 4ish years ago.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 10:32am
Well if she has roller tip rockers then you know at least the top end of the engine was done at some point, the rockers are either 1.52 or 1.60 ration.  The 1.6's let the engine breath a bit better as well.  I would do a cranking compression test on the 3 trunk side plugs and see what you get.    There are 3 off the shelf options for pistons for the 2.8 8.5-1 8.9-1 and 12.5-1    chances are you have the 8.9's and with a bit of decking on the heads should net you a 190psi cranking compression, assuming the rings are good.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 11:28am
Dude, there's a 12.5:1 piston for the Fiero? Is it like a GM racing part?
Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 1:17pm
Federal Mogul makes the piston.  Oddly enough it was the same price as the 8.9-1 pistons. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 1:46pm
That's pretty sick. 94-octane, or is it only compatable with a straight 100+ octane?
Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 1:51pm

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

That's pretty sick.

Yeah, that's probably how well it would run on pump gas.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 3:58pm
Na 12.5 is doable for pump gas with the correct timing, I usually figure 13 is the tipping point. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2010 at 5:53pm
Crazy talk. I would've assumed that would've been race fuel for sure.
Never shift into reverse without a back-up plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote cam2510 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2010 at 12:22pm
what a peice of work this has turned out to be so far!
-replaced rack twice now, this one seems to be holding
-nearly all bushings front and back
-found a crack in the front of block(welded&painted)
-crack in the rear block not recent but after painting(seeping coolant)

we took her on a trip through lower bc
-blew a lower balljoint again(may have been faulty but I think it was too heavy of a load)
-recharged a/c actually blew cold for 100km then started to make such a racket i was scaring people
-got discuraged on keeping track of exact oil consumption but it was a little over 2 litres going van - southern bc - christina lake - jasper - prince george - van

after tomorrow i believe that I should have only a few select bushing to replace besides the engine&tranny mounts with everything in the front and rear being new except springs. nevermind ive had to replace parts that i have reciepts from previous owner for!

what a prize this car has turned out to be!!! and only more problems to come!

big question whats the easiest and most cost efficient engine swap for power and economy? its only a matter of time before this engine burns itself out now so im forced to jump into the part i hoped to leave for a few years atleast. id like to try achieve a decent amount of power without having to worry about destroying anything else.
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