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Dawg’s head gasket chronicles

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kharmata View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kharmata Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2010 at 5:31pm
The owners manual for mine calls for a specific filling procedure.  It has worked for me. Also if you still need I have a timing light. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2010 at 5:35pm
Shouldn't take more than 1 or 2 burps and 10 minutes.

Car level (or nose DOWN slightly).
Front cap off, back cap off, t-stat OUT.
Slowly fill from rear until you get a non foamy/bubbly/whatever stream from the front cap.  Slap on front cap right away.
(make sure you've got the right front cap! Most books list the wrong one.  The 'dingle valve' in the cap should be spring loaded CLOSED, not able to dangle loose)
Top off at the rear.
Slap on cap tight.
Run for about 1 minute.
Remove rear cap slowly with a towel wrapped around the neck (saves slopping A/F on your belts!).
Top up as required, then wait a minute for it to all settle.
Replace rear cap, re-run, check, top up.  Repeat as required.
When nothing changes, stuff in T-stat (lube the o-ring!) and replace cap one last time.

Hit the road and enjoy.


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Patrick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2010 at 6:02pm

Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

I'm thinking of parking the car with the front up hill and burping the radiator a few times.

Not a good plan. You've got it backwards. 

Just do what John said.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2010 at 7:43pm
Success!  After moving the car to a more level part of the yard, I did the prescribed method of "burping" and all is well.

Well, sort of.  I bought a low temp fan switch from the Fiero Store a while back and the darn thing is basically on all the time.  It comes on after a few minutes of idling and never turns off.

So you can imagine the result.  It's running too cold.  I also have a 180 deg thermostat in there.  I will try and put the 195 deg thermostat back in to see where it levels off.

As far as performance goes, I'm still at the WOW stage....:)  As I suspected, the performance cam just loves it's new intake.  The car seems to pull hard all the way to where I get scared for it's life.  Which at the moment is about 6000 rpm.  I say about, because my tach is reading too high.

The engine sound up there is fantastic.

EVERYONE with a 60deg V6 should do this, honestly.  If we could ever get enough club members interested, I would come up with a good group rate for this intake combo.  Also, maybe I do the hard stuff and leave out the cleanup and painting.  Then we all get together for a tech day and I show everyone how to detail their own plenums.

The Dawg

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2010 at 8:14pm
By next spring (ish) I'm hoping to get back to work on my red car.

I'll be hunting you down for a manifold and TB then. If you think it's
that much better with just a cam, think what it'll be like with the turbo
(that was fast before!).
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2010 at 11:16pm
I think this is one of those mods that amplifies the results from other mods, if you get my meaning.  Because it's situated at the beginning of the engine, it has a profound impact on whatever comes next.

So yes, I can just imagine what it would do for your engine.

If I had to put a number on it, I would estimate I've gained at least 15Hp.  But it's the throttle response that has changed the most.


Originally posted by Dr.Fiero Dr.Fiero wrote:

By next spring (ish) I'm hoping to get back to work on my red car.

I'll be hunting you down for a manifold and TB then. If you think it's
that much better with just a cam, think what it'll be like with the turbo
(that was fast before!).
You dream it up....I'll make it
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2010 at 7:12am

I think I mentioned to you, that it was the part throttle acceleration that I noticed so much, car would just zoom up to speed and rpms climbed so much easier without struggling.  Made the car feel more Zippy and Fun to drive.   If someone has a totally stock engine, they could always swap the rockers to a good set of 1.6 ratio rockers while they have the top end apart.  Would help a fair bit getting the air in and out, however if the manifolds have not been ported, no mode in the world is going to help.  So make sure your customers know, that if they install this on a car with non ported manifolds, don't go crying foul if they don't see massive changes.

          Personally I really like the one on my 88GT, it really woke it up, Colby's Dad, took a ride in my car and commented on how quick it was. 

          Another recommendation if the people don't want to go to all the stuff like adjustable FPR and O2 meter on the dash, they can always just find a set of good 17# injectors and swap in.  The stock ECM can handle them just fine and will give a great boost in fuel in the higher rpm ranges.  

      P.S. the stock 15# injectors that are now 20+ years old, are probably performing like new 12# injectors, just a side note to think about. The stock 15# injectors when new and in perfect condition can only support 200hp, so the worn out ones will do maybe 160hp. (fine for a stock motor, however getting dangerous on a modded motor.)

Dawg, I have a spare Autometer Air Fuel Ratio gauge here if you want to hook it up and run around with it for a few days.  Very simple wire up.  Power / Ground, plus 1 wire that taps into the ECM / O2 sensor feed in the cabin.   Its no wide band, but it gets the job done to see if you are not staying full rich at WOT high rpms.

Capt Fiero
88 Fiero GT 5spd V6
Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kharmata Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2010 at 9:02am
I wanna do mine with manifolds, intake and injectors but
also likely need rings - then might as well do bearings, oh
and a clutch too. Who's up for some overhaulin?
(i can delete this after you've all heard my whining )
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2010 at 5:11pm
Ideally, there would be a home grown way of simply cleaning/servicing the injectors we already have.

What kind of money is involved in buying new ones BTW?

As for the air/fuel gauge, I think it would be better to wait till I have a variable regulator to play with.  Where do you get this regulator locally?

For now though, can't I get any useful info from my OBD1 reader? 

The Dawg

Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

      P.S. the stock 15# injectors that are now 20+ years old, are probably performing like new 12# injectors, just a side note to think about. The stock 15# injectors when new and in perfect condition can only support 200hp, so the worn out ones will do maybe 160hp. (fine for a stock motor, however getting dangerous on a modded motor.)

Dawg, I have a spare Autometer Air Fuel Ratio gauge here if you want to hook it up and run around with it for a few days.  Very simple wire up.  Power / Ground, plus 1 wire that taps into the ECM / O2 sensor feed in the cabin.   Its no wide band, but it gets the job done to see if you are not staying full rich at WOT high rpms.

You dream it up....I'll make it
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2010 at 5:29pm
The beauty of all this is most of what you just mentioned involves bolt on goodies.  Goodies that can be moved to another block if need be.  So nothing is lost by doing the mods to this block, even if in the end it lets you down.

Well, I can help you with the ported exhaust manifolds, TB and intake.  If you were to do them all at once there would be a very noticeable difference.

PM me.

The Dawg


Originally posted by kharmata kharmata wrote:

I wanna do mine with manifolds, intake and injectors but
also likely need rings - then might as well do bearings, oh
and a clutch too. Who's up for some overhaulin?
(i can delete this after you've all heard my whining )
You dream it up....I'll make it
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2010 at 5:46pm
Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

Ideally, there would be a home grown way of simply cleaning/servicing the injectors we already have.

What kind of money is involved in buying new ones BTW?

As for the air/fuel gauge, I think it would be better to wait till I have a variable regulator to play with.  Where do you get this regulator locally?

For now though, can't I get any useful info from my OBD1 reader? 

The Dawg

Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

      P.S. the stock 15# injectors that are now 20+ years old, are probably performing like new 12# injectors, just a side note to think about. The stock 15# injectors when new and in perfect condition can only support 200hp, so the worn out ones will do maybe 160hp. (fine for a stock motor, however getting dangerous on a modded motor.)

Dawg, I have a spare Autometer Air Fuel Ratio gauge here if you want to hook it up and run around with it for a few days.  Very simple wire up.  Power / Ground, plus 1 wire that taps into the ECM / O2 sensor feed in the cabin.   Its no wide band, but it gets the job done to see if you are not staying full rich at WOT high rpms.

If you try to buy "NEW" GM Injectors, its about $2400 bucks.  Yes Twenty Four Hundred, however,

You can get replacement injectors from Ebay for less than a hundred bucks for a set of 8 from a Ford Mustang. Yes they are a direct bolt in.  Brian runs 19# Mustang Injectors on his 3.2 with a custom chip and adjustable regulator.    As for the regulator, Mopac should have them in stock as they are used on I believe LS1 Camaro's. 

Capt Fiero
88 Fiero GT 5spd V6
Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd.
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Dr.Fiero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 October 2010 at 7:28pm
If you want to get your existing ones serviced (assuming they're not fubared) it's about $300 taxes in.  I had mine done by a place in port kells.

All flow tested, cleaned, test report, bla bla.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2010 at 9:06pm
Ok....I'm driving home from Dave's place tonight on the freeway just cruising.  I step on the gas a bit to pass a guy and the motor backfires once or twice and gets sluggish.  I go back into my lane and roll along for a while thinking "don't leave me stranded on the freeway at night you dirty Bitch".  It goes along just fine as long as I'm just touching the pedal a tiny bit.  I get closer to home and decide to punch it again and it backfires a couple more times and then seems to run ok the rest of the way home......Huh?

We just did the timing and it was running perfect.

Most likely place to start?  Ignition I'm guessing.  Bad connection somewhere.  Loosing spark then way too rich so backfire.

Any ideas?

The Dawg
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2010 at 9:11pm
Sounds like somethings up with the map sensor or the tps. They'd
both do that.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2010 at 9:11pm
Double check the dist hold down bolt. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2010 at 10:08pm
Ok....I'll hook up my code reader tomorrow and do more driving.  There was no engine light so I'm assuming the sensors are still sending some sort of signal.  Is this ECM advanced enough to detect "out of range" errors.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2010 at 9:41pm
No progress on the car today other than a nice fresh oil change.

Tim's engine surgery took quite a while.

I'm going to try and advance the ignition a little bit to see what happens.

The Dawg
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CFoss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2010 at 9:51am

You gotta check the map and tps. More the map I would think, because the tps doesn't matter in steady state throttle(It's used for enrichment). In other words, it would kick up a fuss when you hit it due to lack of fuel, but would run right after a short time at that throttle setting.

 

Also, do you run a CAT? It could have self destructed (blocked).

 

Chay

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2010 at 10:18am

Originally posted by CFoss CFoss wrote:

Also, do you run a CAT? It could have self destructed (blocked).

Good point. That's what happened to my GT as reported Here.

Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

I also can't emphasize how gutless the GT is once the revs go up. It starts fine, runs smooth, and responds okay off the line, but there's no power if I rev it over, say 3000 RPM. When I kick it down into second gear on the freeway while doing 50-60 mph, all that happens basically is more intake noise.

Damien, while standing at the back of the car, rev the crap out of the engine (literally) and look for a fine white power to come shooting out of the tail pipes.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2010 at 11:11am
TPS seemed fine and I believe the MAP was within normal range when we put the scanner to it.  I was going to drive around today watching my scanner but it decided to stop working last night.  One more thing to try and fix....

As for the CAT being blocked I highly doubt it.  The engine is putting out so much power right now that it couldn't be blocked.  Besides, it's less than a year old.

Last night we had to drive to North Van to drop off the van Michelle was borrowing.  The car ran perfect till I decided to see how fast I could go up "the cut".  Well I jammed out at 150 but the motor could have done more.  Hey!  There were other motorists about.

Shortly after that it started hesitating.  By the time I got close to home on the freeway, it was getting really bad.  You would push on the gas pedal and it would buck and hesitate badly.  If you punched it it would go but not smoothly.  It never back fired last night but I bet if I would have continued driving it would have gotten worse.

So it looks like there's a heat related component to this.

There's no codes or anything obvious going on.

Will keep digging.

The Dawg

Originally posted by CFoss CFoss wrote:

You gotta check the map and tps. More the map I would think, because the tps doesn't matter in steady state throttle(It's used for enrichment). In other words, it would kick up a fuss when you hit it due to lack of fuel, but would run right after a short time at that throttle setting.

 Also, do you run a CAT? It could have self destructed (blocked).

 Chay

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