3.5L LX9 Swap into ’86 2M6 4 speed

CFoss wrote: I think it might be worth it if you can find an obdii code that runs lean burn/wideband 02 for the extra fuel economy. Also, I think the logging output is vastly improved with obdii.SFI doesn't do you any good except for a cleaner idle. Big deal.Chay

Doesn't the $A1 OBD1 code have a lean burn/highway mode
already?

Not that I'm aware of, but there's at least one hacked
version of it and it looks like it has wideband ability, in
addition to having MAP tables with smaller (and I'm
assuming more accurate) increments, and the ability to tune
for much higher revving. It's called nAst1.

These kind of questions...try to get a hold of a schematic for a car that used the '7730 instead of just a repin table. Then you will understand what you are doing.

Like this one: 1991 corsica 3.1:




It seems like what you are talking about is pin A4 (Also known as BA4) which feeds power to the map, and ac pressure sensor. If so, just omit the connection to the ac sensor and you will be fine. Likewise on the ground (B5, or BB5) which is the ground for the tps, iat and ac sensor.



Chay

Ok that's what I thought thanks

Re: Shipping costs...that's a bit more like it!

Re: 10 A fuse: Just make sure that the wire guage is up to it. 10A should be a #16 at the minimum, #14 prefered. If you splice as you've explained above, split 3 injector wires to the +12 harness, and 3 to the ecm switched ground wire that'd be optimal. Then you should have lots of current capability.

What's a CSI??


The guage and ecm coolant temp sensors are separate on the fiero. Don't mix the 2 circuits would be my advice.

The ecm is just a variable resistor which is between an ecm pin and ground. The ecm measures the current flow and determines a temp.

The guage circuit should be untouched??

It looks like this:




The ecm one looks like this:



Chay

Ah yes, the good old csi.

14 guage should be fine.

Cool on the CTS. I've not seen a 3 wire, but it sounds like you have it fingered out!

C

Oh and I also meant to ask: would the now unused INJ 2 wire be a
good power supply for a heated o2 sensor?

Just did some reading up on codemask $59 and it looks like
most people running it have boosted engines. For the
foreseeable future I plan on keeping this engine N/A so
I'll probably just stick with $A1. If I wanted more power
I would probably be more inclined to do a cam swap to
maintain some form of fuel economy.

Nice thing about the heated o2 sensors is that my engine
came with 3 of them. So if one doesn't work I should
still have one that does.

I'm probably going to make a trip to Port Angeles on
Monday or Tuesday to grab at the very least a flywheel
and a knock sensor. Those items are each $100 here and
about $100 combined there so I'll be saving plenty. I'll
also try to grab a 3 wire CTS, radiator hoses (using 3400
swap part numbers mentioned on 60degreev6.com) and a 2001
vette fuel filter. Maybe some fuel injection hose as
well.

Wiring is mostly finished now, I've changed the pigtails
for the TPS and IAC, wired in the knock sensor using the
fan switch pigtail, and connected the wires for the
computer fan control. I still have to do the DIS wiring
and crank sensor. Question about the crank sensor: does
the twisted pair of wires have to be twisted the whole
length of the wires? Cuz where the pigtails connect I'm
not sure it's gonna want to twist perfectly... I've
started routing the wires around the engine but want to
get it back in the car to get everything perfect. I'll
loom it up after I get the engine started.

I'm thinking to mount the coils I'll use the 3500
mounting bracket and drill holes for the 3400 coils and
ICM.

Ok so I went to Port Angeles and stayed overnight with
friends there. I spent almost $200 on parts and didn't
get charged any duty so that was nice. I ended up
getting a vette fuel filter, flywheel, oil cap, idler
pulley (one of mine was broken), oil filter (wix), crank
sensor, 3-wire CTS (for 97 Grand Prix, in case anyone is
wondering), and a new front engine mount. When I called
on Saturday they said they would hold a knock sensor for
me but it wasn't there when I arrived. Oh well, I'll
probably find a couple in a JY and hope one of them
works.

Today I installed my flywheel and clutch, I also bolted
up the 2.8 starter; it comes very close to touching the
oil pan but I don't see it being a problem, I just need
to get a shorter bolt because one of the 2.8's bolts is
too long for the new engine. I cleaned up the inside of
the 4 speed's bellhousing and installed the new engine
mount on the cradle. I'm about ready to mount the engine
to the cradle. I couldn't find a part number for a pilot
bearing and didn't see a bearing in the 2.8 so I'm
assuming that the 4 speed manual doesn't use one.

I also found out that a Canadian Tire pickle fork makes a
perfect clutch alignment tool:



Some pics of the old flywheel vs new and the friction
surfaces:

Thickness of the clutch:






I found out the 2.8 spark plug wires work fine where I
mounted the coils. They're a little on the short side for
one side but they're not being stretched so I think
they'll be fine (NGK). To mount the coils I drilled
holes in the 3.5 mounting bracket and used nuts to secure
the bolts. The original mounting bolts are still in-tact
in case I want to go back to the 3.5 coils in the future.

I did want to ask if anyone knows what this port in the
rear side valve cover is for:

I'm assuming it's for PCV, but the other side valve cover
already goes to just behind the throttle body so I'm
wondering if anyone knows where the other port goes.
Could I just put a breather on it or does it require
vacuum?

Edit: Found out it just needs filtered air. I'll
probably put a breather on it.