Ebrake wont disengage, help please!

10ft won't kill anything.
Only thing that will get killed is YOU if you lift it up on an incline.  ;)

When safe, pull the wheels off, then grab the ebrake arm on each caliper with a pair of vise grips - move them back towards the rear of the car - that should release them.

Now, you get to figure out if the cable(s) seized, or the caliper(s).

phew.... got those damned locknuts off finally, stragely one needed a 13/16th and the other a 20mm, just slightly off. Neither sockets were ruined thankfully :)

Bassman wrote: Good news:)...nice warm day to be working on your car...I am burnt from yesterday:(

Ya I am too, LOL. :)

Check out my rebuild thread to see my status. :)

As for your calipers, congrats on getting the wheels off.

Best bet for bleeding is get a buddy to help you.   You open the bleeder valve, have them push the pedal down slowly, then you close the bleeder valve and they lift up the brake pedal. Do this about 5 times per wheel and you should be good to go.

Edited by Capt Fiero

Pick up some line clamps if you dont have any - they're cheap (Can Tire, etc - the Lisle ones are good).  You slip one over each rubber brake line, then twist them down.  Saves you loosing all your brake fluid when you pull the line off.  You'll still loose some - but far less of a mess.

Yank Wheel.
Reef arm of ebrake over, and unhook the cable.
CAREFULLY remove the spring.
CLEAN the area around the banjo fitting.
Crack off the hydraulic line (the banjo).
Stuff it in a baggie, and zip tie or whatever it on.
Use a (T45? T50?) Torx bit, and undo the two bolts holding it onto the bracket.
Now...  if your rotors aren't rusty around the edge, you SHOULD just be able to  slide them off the rotor.  If not, you might need to get various weapons in there to pry them off.  Your pads might get sacrificed.

Install is pretty much the reverse.  If your pads aren't perfect, get new ones.  If your rotors are crappy...  you guessed it...  time to grab a new set.  This isn't a place to cheap out on!!!!!

Prefill the calipers through the hole after they're installed.  Pop the top off your master cylinder. Crack off the line clamp, and let the fluid dribble until you get like 5-10 tablespoons or so.  Quickly stuff the bolt into the banjo (use NEW copper washers! one on each side of the banjo!) and bolt the line down.  Don't strip the hole in the nice new caliper. Let it weep a bit more, then tighten the bolt down (don't go nuts), while wiggling the line/banjo.

Do that to both sides.  IF you're lucky (hey, it happens!) you won't even have to bleed them.

Apply the Ebrake about 20 times (full stroke on/off) to settle the pads.

Now gently apply the brake pedal on/off a few times.
The first few bleed off the vacuum reservoir.
The pedal SHOULD now be hard to press.  About 1.5" or so max movement.  Much more, or if it feels mushy....  oh well...  bleed 'em.

i just replaced the rear calipers on my 85GT and they were like $168 each with a $68 core and a 25% discount from NAPA i dont know if thats how much they cost everywhere but the guys are always helpful at NAPA so thats where i shop

ok thats more like it, ill go pick those up today.  Maybe ill paint them while im at it :)

If you've got both of the long torx bolts out - that's it.

You can stuff a strong screwdriver (etc) inbetween the rotor and the caliper, and pry up.  Alternate ends - sometimes helps.

I think you're stabbing in the wrong area...

These will be 2 (both the same) large round headed Torx bolts.  They'll use a T45 or 50 to get them out, and they're rather long.

The bolts are down in the middle of the rubber thingies.

arrg!  dont even have a friggen t-45 or t-50 lol  wouldn't you know it.  Screw it, im done for today. I need a beer  :(  Ill try to tackle it again tomorrow lol :P  Thanks for your help, ill keep you posted.