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Headlights |
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CFoss ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 580 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 03 April 2010 at 5:57pm |
Hey there. I can find a wiring diagram on this but nothing that shows me the internals (Coils/contacts) of the isolation relay and individual headlight relays. I'm chasing a strange fault.
History: The 84 I bought had the motors disconnected, so now it's time to get the headlights working again. Symptoms, first problem: I found the car with both motors disconnected at the headlight relays. I plugged in the drivers side motor at the and the motor spun continuously. I changed that motor with a spare I have and that fixed this side. So the first problem is fixed. The other motor runs ok when plugged in. Symptoms, second problem: So, now the trick is that the headlights will go up, and will sometimes go down. Sometimes when I turn the switch off, the lights hang up, and the lights themselves dim, but do not extinguish. The voltage on the yellow wire (Main output to the headlights) dropped to 8V from 12V with the switch off. I checked the grounds and they are ok. It is definatley a +12 source issue. I suspected that the switch is faulty (Leaking +12V), so I changed it with another I have. The same fault happened, again intermittently. So, I figured I have two bad switches. I took one apart and it looked ok, and tested out fine with an ohm meter. The one wire which I'm not sure of the function of is the white wire. It is +12 from the switch when in the off position, and open circuit (0V) when the headlight switch is on. It goes to the isolation relay. If I jumper this wire to a solid +12, I can't make the headlights screw up. They work great. So what is the white wire for??? Its obviously switched for a reason, but I can't figure it out without more info. Any insight greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chay |
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86 SE 3.4
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CFoss ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 580 |
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Found it:
![]() The white wire is the headlights close hot lead. It supplies +12 to the motor in the opposite direction to close the doors. I think I'll eliminate the switch contact by jumpering the orange to the white. My rational is that when the switch is off the white wire is +12, and when the switch is on, the white wire is backfed to the switch by the yellow wire, so why did they switch it in the first place? I don't know. Chay |
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86 SE 3.4
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Dr.Fiero ![]() Senior Post God ![]() Joined: 12 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1726 |
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I'll try to find my 'good' diagram, but in the mean time...
There's a diode in the isolation relay. Seen it go bad many times. Looks like a 1N914 or similar. Pop the tops on all 3 of them, and file the points. They're pretty exposed to the weather. |
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CFoss ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 580 |
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If that diode failed short circuit then the relay would hang eh?
I think it's a failed switch though because if the diode failed short it would hang for sure when I jumpered the white to +12 If the diode failed open the doors would never open...so that can't be it. I'll check it out though. Chay |
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86 SE 3.4
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CFoss ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 580 |
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Thinking a little more, you may be onto something there.
The lights won't come up without the white being powered up. The lights go on and there is an audible click (The iso relay turning on) however. That would tend to implicate the diode as well, or the contact on the cathode side of the diode. Thanks again, Chay |
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86 SE 3.4
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CFoss ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 580 |
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Ok, I give up. I have the iso relay out, how do i get the top off without wrecking it? Does it just pry off?
Thanks, Chay |
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86 SE 3.4
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Dr.Fiero ![]() Senior Post God ![]() Joined: 12 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1726 |
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There's a couple of small tabs there. Just get two really thin screwdrivers under the edges and pry out a tiny bit. It'll drop right out sometimes. Sometimes you have to tug it out, if they used a lot of the black goop.
Here's a color version of your pic (for anyone else who finds it easier): ![]() |
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CFoss ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 580 |
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Yup, 1N4005 (1A general purpose rectifier) failed to short.
I replaced it and now I'm waiting for some epoxy to harden (I split the case a bit getting it off) and then I'll try it out. I'm cautiously optimistic. Chay |
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86 SE 3.4
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CFoss ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 580 |
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Works great! Saaawweeet.
Thanks again, Chay |
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86 SE 3.4
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Dr.Fiero ![]() Senior Post God ![]() Joined: 12 February 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1726 |
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Great! Glad it worked for you. Far from the first one I've seen die - won't be the last.
Had one die (shorted presumably) where the relay got so hot you could barely touch it. Would kill the persons battery after a day or so of being parked (go figure). |
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