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UBC Auto-X July 26th

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Romeo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2009 at 9:20pm
Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

Hey Brian now all we got to do is get you into some lightweight 14" wheels or go with something like 12" diameter by 10" wide full race wheels.  

 

Congrats to the both of you, you are making Fiero owners proud all over the world.  (well at least in our section of it)

 

 


Pfft, 12" is SO yesterday. This is what he needs.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/item.asp?cid=16&scid=25 7&pid=964

Those rims are sex in circular form.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2009 at 5:18am
lol...
Brian (Bassman)

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2009 at 8:31pm
Come on Brian, you were thinking it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2009 at 8:46pm

Na like I was telling Brian when he started this whole racing bug, smaller is better.   The smaller the outside diameter of the wheel, and the shorter the overall tire/wheel combo the quicker the car will accelerate due to the effective gear ratio change.   Going from say a 26" tall tire and wheel package down to a 23" tale tire and wheel package, the difference is amazing.  Acceleration is much faster coming out of a corner, braking is increased drastically, the only draw back is reduced top speed, however if you are never red-line at top gear, the point is null.      We really need to set up Lisa's old tires on a car, say a set of full size 17s or 18s and let people try the difference.  

These sizes will both fit on a stock or lowered Fiero.

Note the overall size is a whopping 4 inches difference, which would result in a 2" drop to your car going from one size to the other, or a 2" lift if you started with the smaller size and moved to the larger size.

Just a side note, on a Fiero that is dropped 2" the max you can go is a 26.88" tall rear tire.  Unless you have some serious back space on the wheels. 

     Also note that you know have a 15% change in gearing, which is a substantial change.   Go to the website and play with sizing.   I think we found one day, that you can go with a 22" wheel on a Fiero and with a low enough profile tire, not even make the speedo change.

 

This program has been used approximately times.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DML Tire and Wheel Calculator Results

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Dimensions

Dimension Tire A: 205/40 R 16
(22 x 8.07 x 16)
Tire B: 225/60 R 16
(27 x 8.86 x 16)
Difference
Width
Sidewall height
Overall height
Circumference
8.07" (205.00mm)
3.23" (82.00mm)
22.46" (570.40mm)
70.55" (1791.96mm)
8.86" (225.00mm)
5.31" (135.00mm)
26.63" (676.40mm)
83.66" (2124.97mm)
+0.79" (+20.00mm)
+2.09" (+53.00mm)
+4.17" (+106.00mm)
+13.11" (+333.01mm)


 

Speedometer Error

Actual Speed Indicated Speed with Tire B Speedometer Error
5 mph (8.04 kph) 4.22 mph (6.78 kph) -0.78 mph (-1.26 kph)
10 mph (16.09 kph) 8.43 mph (13.57 kph) -1.57 mph (-2.52 kph)
15 mph (24.13 kph) 12.65 mph (20.35 kph) -2.35 mph (-3.78 kph)
20 mph (32.18 kph) 16.87 mph (27.14 kph) -3.13 mph (-5.04 kph)
25 mph (40.23 kph) 21.08 mph (33.92 kph) -3.92 mph (-6.30 kph)
30 mph (48.27 kph) 25.30 mph (40.71 kph) -4.70 mph (-7.56 kph)
35 mph (56.31 kph) 29.52 mph (47.49 kph) -5.48 mph (-8.83 kph)
40 mph (64.36 kph) 33.73 mph (54.27 kph) -6.27 mph (-10.09 kph)
45 mph (72.41 kph) 37.95 mph (61.06 kph) -7.05 mph (-11.35 kph)
50 mph (80.45 kph) 42.16 mph (67.84 kph) -7.84 mph (-12.61 kph)
55 mph (88.50 kph) 46.38 mph (74.63 kph) -8.62 mph (-13.87 kph)
60 mph (96.54 kph) 50.60 mph (81.41 kph) -9.40 mph (-15.13 kph)
65 mph (104.58 kph) 54.81 mph (88.20 kph) -10.19 mph (-16.39 kph)
70 mph (112.63 kph) 59.03 mph (94.98 kph) -10.97 mph (-17.65 kph)
75 mph (120.67 kph) 63.25 mph (101.76 kph) -11.75 mph (-18.91 kph)
80 mph (128.72 kph) 67.46 mph (108.55 kph) -12.54 mph (-20.17 kph)
85 mph (136.76 kph) 71.68 mph (115.33 kph) -13.32 mph (-21.43 kph)
90 mph (144.81 kph) 75.90 mph (122.12 kph) -14.10 mph (-22.69 kph)
95 mph (152.85 kph) 80.11 mph (128.90 kph) -14.89 mph (-23.95 kph)
100 mph (160.90 kph) 84.33 mph (135.69 kph) -15.67 mph (-25.21 kph)
105 mph (168.94 kph) 88.55 mph (142.47 kph) -16.45 mph (-26.48 kph)
110 mph (176.99 kph) 92.76 mph (149.25 kph) -17.24 mph (-27.74 kph)
115 mph (185.03 kph) 96.98 mph (156.04 kph) -18.02 mph (-29.00 kph)
120 mph (193.08 kph) 101.19 mph (162.82 kph) -18.81 mph (-30.26 kph)
125 mph (201.12 kph) 105.41 mph (169.61 kph) -19.59 mph (-31.52 kph)
130 mph (209.17 kph) 109.63 mph (176.39 kph) -20.37 mph (-32.78 kph)
135 mph (217.22 kph) 113.84 mph (183.17 kph) -21.16 mph (-34.04 kph)
140 mph (225.26 kph) 118.06 mph (189.96 kph) -21.94 mph (-35.30 kph)
145 mph (233.31 kph) 122.28 mph (196.74 kph) -22.72 mph (-36.56 kph)
150 mph (241.35 kph) 126.49 mph (203.53 kph) -23.51 mph (-37.82 kph)
155 mph (249.40 kph) 130.71 mph (210.31 kph) -24.29 mph (-39.08 kph)
160 mph (257.44 kph) 134.93 mph (217.10 kph) -25.07 mph (-40.34 kph)
165 mph (265.49 kph) 139.14 mph (223.88 kph) -25.86 mph (-41.60 kph)
170 mph (273.53 kph) 143.36 mph (230.66 kph) -26.64 mph (-42.87 kph)
175 mph (281.57 kph) 147.58 mph (237.45 kph) -27.42 mph (-44.13 kph)
180 mph (289.62 kph) 151.79 mph (244.23 kph) -28.21 mph (-45.39 kph)
185 mph (297.67 kph) 156.01 mph (251.02 kph) -28.99 mph (-46.65 kph)
190 mph (305.71 kph) 160.22 mph (257.80 kph) -29.78 mph (-47.91 kph)
195 mph (313.75 kph) 164.44 mph (264.59 kph) -30.56 mph (-49.17 kph)
200 mph (321.80 kph) 168.66 mph (271.37 kph) -31.34 mph (-50.43 kph)


If your speedometer has been calibrated for 205/40 R 16 (22 x 8.07 x 16) tires, replacing them with 225/60 R 16's (23 x 8.86 x 16's) would result in the speedometer reading low by 15.67%.




 

Odometer Error

Actual Mileage Indicated Mileage with Tire B Odometer Error
1 mi (1.61 km) 0.84 mi (1.36 km) -0.16 mi (-0.25 km)
5 mi (8.04 km) 4.22 mi (6.78 km) -0.78 mi (-1.26 km)
10 mi (16.09 km) 8.43 mi (13.57 km) -1.57 mi (-2.52 km)
50 mi (80.45 km) 42.16 mi (67.84 km) -7.84 mi (-12.61 km)
100 mi (160.90 km) 84.33 mi (135.69 km) -15.67 mi (-25.21 km)
500 mi (804.50 km) 421.64 mi (678.43 km) -78.36 mi (-126.07 km)
1000 mi (1609.00 km) 843.29 mi (1356.85 km) -156.71 mi (-252.15 km)
5000 mi (8045.00 km) 4216.44 mi (6784.25 km) -783.56 mi (-1260.75 km)
10000 mi (16090.00 km) 8432.88 mi (13568.50 km) -1567.12 mi (-2521.50 km)
50000 mi (80450.00 km) 42164.40 mi (67842.52 km) -7835.60 mi (-12607.48 km)
100000 mi (160900.00 km) 84328.80 mi (135685.03 km) -15671.20 mi (-25214.97 km)


Same as with the speedometer, if your odometer has been calibrated for 205/40 R 16 (22 x 8.07 x 16) tires, replacing them with 225/60 R 16's (27 x 8.86 x 16's) would result in the odometer reading low by 15.67%.



 

Effective Gear Ratio Change

Rearend ratio with 205/40 R 16's Rearend ratio with 225/60 R 16's
3.55 2.99

As far as gearing goes, if you have a 3.55 rearend and 205/40 R 16 tires (22 x 8.07 x 16), changing to 225/60 R 16's (27 x 8.86 x 16's) would be the same as if you kept your current wheels and tires but changed your rearend gears to 2.99's


 

RPM Change

RPM with 205/40 R 16's RPM with 225/60 R 16's
6000 5059

Replacing your 205/40 R 16 (22 x 8.07 x 16) tires with 225/60 R 16's (27 x 8.86 x 16's) would lower your finish line RPM by 941 RPMs.


 


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Capt Fiero
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2009 at 9:01pm

 

     Ya a 225/20/22 tire will fit and not even throw the speedo off.

225mm wide

20 series profile

22" wheel

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2009 at 11:45pm

Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

20 series profile

Ugh, no thanks, not for street use anyway. I think you'd feel every pebble on the road with such low profile tires. I don't even like the 50 series tires I have on my GT. Next tires will be 60's.

I'm old school. I like to see some meat on my wheels, not thin little rubber bands.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2009 at 6:16am

You do know that the profile is not a given number, the profile or series is a measurement of the width, a 20 series 20 is simply 20% of the width.

Or a 215/50/15 has a sidewall that is 50% of 215mm, which is roughly 107mm tall sidewall.    

       OK everybody follow that, take the width of the tire, divide by the profile and you get the sidewall height.

So Patrick in your case, I would stay with the 50 series and move to a tire that is 20mm wider.  This will get you a nice meaty looking tire and increase your sidewall to make it a bit more mushy at the same time.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2009 at 6:19am
Originally posted by Patrick Patrick wrote:

Originally posted by Capt Fiero Capt Fiero wrote:

20 series profile

Ugh, no thanks, not for street use anyway. I think you'd feel every pebble on the road with such low profile tires. I don't even like the 50 series tires I have on my GT. Next tires will be 60's.

I'm old school. I like to see some meat on my wheels, not thin little rubber bands.

 


Ah, I grew up looking at Formula technology. You thin out the sidewalls and during cornering your car will tend not to "lean over" it's point of contact. As your aware, if you can keep your point of contact and point of load in parralel, you gain a significant amount of cornering ability, which is why manufacturers spend so long designing their steering knuckles and suspension (Due to SAI, Included Angle, Caster and Scrub Radius). David does have a legitamite point, but then again, it wouldn't be all good for example. A closer range transmission means more shifts, and in a racing type like autocross, that could get quite tiresome (This is overlooking the power loss during each shift). And Patrick, the style you like is good for drag racing, as it allows the car to spin the axles and inside portion of the tire slightly, before the outside finally tries to catch up and snaps forward like a rubber band, giving a touch more grunt to the sixty foot mark.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2009 at 12:17am

A tire size/speedometer reading calculator I've used a lot and liked is this one Here.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2009 at 12:26am

Originally posted by Romeo Romeo wrote:

And Patrick, the style you like is good for drag racing, as it allows the car to spin the axles and inside portion of the tire slightly, before the outside finally tries to catch up and snaps forward like a rubber band, giving a touch more grunt to the sixty foot mark.

Sounds like you're describing "wrinkle slicks".

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2009 at 1:12am
That's a drastic example of it, but the any time profile is increased, you'll get a minor spring sensation from when the tires hook up. Still, both your and David's tire ideas would have trouble keeping up to the 15" wide tire contact patch of the rims I linked. If you managed to somehow stuff them into Fiero wheel wells. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Capt Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2009 at 11:53am

Romeo sorry to burst your tire here, but in the grander scheme of things, and the reason no one runs much bigger than a 10" slick on a Fiero is, nothing else in a Fiero can handle that much traction.  Long before you break traction on a 10 slick in a Fiero, you'll shatter CV shafts, blow up even the most radical of trans axles, motor mounts would be turned into pretzels faster than you can think.   I use to run a 9.64 inch rear street tire (not a even a drag tire) on my back of my V8 car and I actually dropped it back to an 8.8" street tire because I got tired of breaking parts.  Its much cheaper to replace burnt tires than blown clutches or trans axles.   I still kill mounts, but not nearly as bad.     With the big tires, I could litterly at will, put new mounts in the car, take it out, rev the clutch dump it hard, and pull it back into the driveway to replace my now destroyed mounts.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 August 2009 at 12:26am
Not when I install my LS9 with the LS4 transmission, and custom built drive axles. Then will see who's laughing! Mua ha ha ha! Bubble un-burst! All I need to do now is win multiple lotteries.
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