The Fiero Ignition System

by Oliver Scholz

The following is a description of the Fiero's ignition system. It applies mainly to the V6's, but also to the 1984-1986 4 cylinder engines. The 87/88 4 cylinder engines are too different, but 87/88 L4 owners may still want to read on, since they'll see how their engine is superior to the prior years. I'll describe the basic operation, problem areas, and how to fix them.

Let me warn you that this may get a little technical...

Everything revolves around the crankshaft (literally). This is the base for all timing. When the crankshaft is a few degrees before Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke, you want the spark to ignite the air fuel mixture, at the precise timing as determined by the ECM. To achieve this, the timing chain connects the camshaft to the crankshaft. Now, the timing chain streches over time, resulting in a timing that can shift with engine load changes. The valve timing changes too, but a few degrees change in the valve timing are not as critical as a timing change in the ignition system. This is one area where timing gears are better: they don't stretch. 88's don't have the problem at all, since the DIS module picks up its timing directly via a pickup on the crank. There is no stretching or wear. If your t-chain is stretched, well, this is not an easy job and is best left to the professional. But let's continue.

The camshaft drives the distributor shaft. This is the next area where problems can arise. If the distributor shaft gear wears out there is a bit of play between the distributor shaft gear and the corresponding gear on the camshaft. So, if the engine load changes, the timing can jump a bit (depending on the wear). This can confuse the ECM and can lead to the dreaded "my idle jumps up and down".

Now, provided the shaft is rotating with the camshaft, there are 6 (or 4 on the L4) little magnetic "tangs" that rotate around the pickup coil. Each time the tangs of the magnetic pole piece pass by the tangs of the pickup coil, current is induced in the pickup coil. Now, if these tangs are bent, the timing is again incorrect. So make sure these are all in the proper position and don't stick! I've seen engines where mechanics have somehow bent those tangs that the pole piece touches the tangs while rotating...

If the mechanic really used too much force, he can also get the pole piece loose, so that it can be rotated without the shaft moving!

Anyway, this signal is picked up by the ignition module. That is, if the pickup coil is working correctly. I'd recommend changing the pickup coil every two years or so. If it looks rotten, it probably is. It's also cheap to replace, and since you have to remove the distributor, this is an excellent chance to reset the timing, clean everything up, clean the gunk off the shaft (there is usually quite a bit of gunked up oil on the shaft). You should also use this opportunity to remove any play in the shaft by inserting the proper washers.

There was an article on rebuilding the distributor in a recent FOCOA magazine. If the contacts are bad, the coil has internal shorts, if the wires are corroded, the signal coming from the pickup coil will be weak and this can lead to a variety of hard to diagnose engine problems. In short: replace it unless it's new. It's cheap.

Now to the ignition module. This is the prime suspect in Fiero ignition problems. Don't leave home without one. I'm serious. I can name a dozen people that have been stranded because this bugger suddenly quit working. Remember: The distributor (especially on the V6) is subjected to a lot of heat, and this tends to wear out electrical things quickly. Also, stay away from aftermarket modules. Granted, they are cheaper, but you get what you pay for. My aftermarket module lasted a whopping 3 months before quitting. And guess when those buggers quit? Not while you are on your driveway, that's for sure! Don't forget to apply the heat dissipative grease that comes with the module! If you do, run to your dealer and order another one, since you are going to need it.

Applying that grease is vital on the Fiero's engine. Now, the module has two connectors, with 6 contacts total. One of them is 12V. If there is a bad connection on this line, you get all kinds of weird problems. Engine runs, engine stops, engine misses, etc. Once the ECM has 12V, ground and a proper signal from the pickup coil, it will drive the ignition coil. This will generate spark. These two signals are on the 2 way connector on the distributor module.

Next culprit is the ignition coil. It can have shorts and opens, the procedure for checking them is simple and explained in the Helms, Haynes and Chilton manuals. If you get a new one, get one of the performance coils. The stock coil is okay, but a bit on the weak side at higher RPMs. An often overlooked point is the ignition filter. It is next to the distributor and feeds the ignition signal to the tach. If you disconnect it you won't get a tach reading, but it may cure your problems. Simple to check, simple to fix.

The secondary side of the ignition coil goes to the distributor again, this time the mechanical part on top. There can be a variety of things wrong with it, ranging from cracked to worn parts. Unless it's new, get a new cap and rotor, they're inexpensive.

Needless to say, your ignition wires and plugs need to be in good condition. You can measure the wires (see Helms, Haynes, etc.) and take a look at the plugs, and regap them.

Again, simple and described in the manuals.

Back to the part I left out. The ECM connection on the distributor module. The distributor sends a reference signal to the ECM. The ECM reads this signal ("Ref") and determines the current RPM from it (it can be verified with a Scantool and is independent from the tach reading on the instrument panel!). Below a certain RPM (as during cranking) the ECM stays out of the ignition module and lets the module do its thing. During this time the ignition module grounds the EST line. If it sees a voltage there if it doesn't expect it to, it will set a code 42.

Once the RPM rises high enough, the ECM sends a signal to the module informing it that it wishes to "take over". This is done by the "bypass" signal. It switches the ignition module from internal timing to ECM-controlled timing. With ECM-controlled timing, the ECM waits for a reference pulse, delays it and then sends a signal on the "EST" line to the ignition module to fire the spark. Clear as mud?

Again, if the RPM is too low, the distributor module works on its own and generates its own timing. No advance. Once the ECM takes over, it delays the signal it receives from the module and sends it back.

What's the fourth input for? Well, it is a ground connection that makes sure that the ECM and the distributor module have the same, good ground.

So, there are plenty of things that can go wrong with the Fiero ignition system, but the ECM is rarely one of them, and it's expensive to replace. Mechanics are afraid of electronics, so you often get the "if the engine isn't running right, replace the ECM"-attitude. If that's not it, well we don't know (but made a lot of money by replacing that ECM).

Troubleshooting the Fiero ignition system can be frustrating, but most of the things I described can be done by the shadetree mechanic.

You need a minimum of tools, including a timing light, and if you troubleshoot systematically, you will usually find the problem and even if you replace all the parts, it will be cheaper than what the shop will charge you for replacing the ECM...

Ok you mentioned that snow had covered that connector near the battery because you left the vent off.

I have a couple things to check

First, you need I believe a 1/4 socket.  Remove the mounting bolt in the middle of that connector, then pull the connector off.  Now put it back on. 

Try to start the car.  If no start, there are 2 nuts on a double lug stud below that connector, remove the nuts, pull off the wires on the studs, clean them with a wire brush and put them back on, now try to start the car.

If still no start.  Go into the cabin and check for a bad fuse anywhere. Even if you have to pull each fuse out one at a time, do it, make sure they are all good.

Ok if they are all good, and you have checked all the plugs and wires around the battery. 

Now this is one hell of a long shot.  Remove the coil wire, and test it to see if it is broken.  If you have an ohm meter, check the wire for continuity.  If you don't fine some way to get voltage to the wire, and use a test light. 

I would also check the fusible links around the battery.  (looks like a piece of wire with a black bulge about 2 inches from the stud on connector near the battery. 

                 Hopefully you can figure it out. 

There is one more way to go about this. It's kinda hillbilly, so I haven't mentioned it before now.

If you really don't have power to the coil connector (This is where it comes in btw, then it goes to the dist from there), then strip the insulation off the incoming wire from the harness or multipin firewall connector (IE, not the one that goes to the dist, the other one), and run a jumper directly from the battery + to it. It should be the white wire in your case as discused previously. This will definately heat up your ignition system. Then try to start it. If you get it to fire, the power to the coil is your problem. If not, the issue is in the power connector to the dist (Ig module), or the module etc.

But you already said you have power to one pin of the coil connector so ?? If the white between the coil and the dist is not heated up, try applying the jumper from the battery + to this wire. Try to start again. This way you can isolate the coil connector white side as the issue.

Another way is kinda like what the captain suggests. Remove the plug on the dist. Connect one leg of an ohmmeter to the white wire's pin.

Then remove the multi pin connectore at the firewall. Figure out which pin is supposed to feed the white wire. It's on some schematics. Put the other lead of the ohmmeter there. If you get a low reading, then the wiring from the multi pin connector all the way to the distrubutor is ok.

Man I wish I were there. I think we'd have you running in .5 hours.

Chay

1. Ignition Coil Plugs/Unplugged from Coil/Key off

2. Ignition Coil Plugs/Unplugged from Coil/Key on

3. Ignition Coil Terminal with Plugs Connected/Key on

4. Module Plugs/Key off

5. Module Plugs/Key on

All I can say is that you have really confused me. I don't blame you for this, testing electrical devices must be new to you. I'm going to rag on you a bit, all constructive I hope!

Telling me about volts on the ohms scale is a bit nuts. Sorry. Select the range, and report the readings on the right range.

I have no clue why you are telling me about current. Do you really mean voltage?

You didn't tell us how you tested the coil, but I bet it's fine. I've never seen one go bad. Ever.

Your voltmeter has very poor ranges for working on cars. 0-10VDC is too low, and 250VDC is way too high for accurate readings. You can get by, but it's better to go to CDN tire and spend $20 for a digital with better ranges.

Which range did you use for the quoted ohms readings (Where was the selector knob?)? 

Anyway, I'm not sure if I said this before (My bad), but I believe the plug has to be connected to the coil for the in/out connector to work. I.E. the connection is in the coil, not the plug. They work together. If you remove the connector, don't expect the outgoing white to be +12.

Do this:

Connect the black lead of the voltmeter, range 0-250VDC to the battery - post.

Plug in all connectors.

Strip a bit of insulation from the incoming and outgoing white wires.

Now, check your voltmeter by connecting the red wire to the + battery post. Note the needle position. It should be around the 9 ohms mark (12.5 volts on the 250 V scale). This is what you will be looking for from now on.

Go key on and connect the red wire of the voltmeter to one of the stripped portions. Make sure the wire is clean. Sometimes there is a buildup of oxidation. Scrape it until you see shiny metal. You should see the needle move to about 12.5 volts or so, just like at the battery +.

If neither wire is showing voltage, then you feed from the fuse is bad for some reason. If one is showing voltage, but not the other, then the connector at the coil is bad. If they are both good, you have no problems with power.

If you find one or both missing, connect a wire directly from the battery + post to the wire(s) missing the voltage. Retest with the voltmeter as above to ensure a good connection. Now try to start.

Measuring the black connections with type of meter will tell you .....nothing.

It's obvious you put in a lot of effort to take and post the pictures. I am trying to help you 'cause I see the commitment.

Chay

CFoss wrote: All I can say is that you have really confused me. I don't blame you for this, testing electrical devices must be new to you. I'm going to rag on you a bit, all constructive I hope!

Never tested anything in my life.

CFoss wrote: Telling me about volts on the ohms scale is a bit nuts. Sorry. Select the range, and report the readings on the right range. I have no clue why you are telling me about current. Do you really mean voltage?

This is why I showed a picture of the volt meter. I had it on 9V Bat and was using the Green numbers at the top. Which I have NO idea what measurement they are.

For future reference, should I use "250 ACV" and post the top green numbers? Are the green numbers "Ohms"?

Because I'll go out and re-test everything. With those settings and measurements.

OR

Just tell me what setting to have it on, and what numbers you want me to use for the measurements.

CFoss wrote: You didn't tell us how you tested the coil, but I bet it's fine. I've never seen one go bad. Ever.

I tested it just like the http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p435/Amos830_photos/SL732507.jpg - book showed . The original coil that I pulled gave no measurements of any kind on any of the 3 tests. The other two I have, gave readings just like my book said they should.

CFoss wrote: Your voltmeter has very poor ranges for working on cars. 0-10VDC is too low, and 250VDC is way too high for accurate readings. You can get by, but it's better to go to CDN tire and spend $20 for a digital with better ranges.

Unfortunately for me, this is a $20 CDN Tire volt meter. The Digital ones with better readings were $40 in CDN Tire Abbotsford.

CFoss wrote: Which range did you use for the quoted ohms readings (Where was the selector knob?)?

9V Bat, as seen in http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p435/Amos830_photos/VoltMeter.jpg - Volt Meter picture.

CFoss wrote: It's obvious you put in a lot of effort to take and post the pictures. I am trying to help you 'cause I see the commitment.

Thanks I appreciate the help. I've been working on it every chance I get for the past 3 weeks. I'm not educated in mechanics or anything electrical. So I'm just learning as I go. Again I'm sorry for not specifying a measurement on the Volt Meter. As I really have no idea how to use one, or to read it. That's why I figured I'd just select a constant measurement "9V bat" and measure the volt, or lack thereof in an attempt to find a bad ground or broken wire.

However I can't find the information anywhere that tells me if "said" wire should be ground, or +12V, or anything between. So even though I know what my wires are doing, I'm not sure if it's correct. This is why I posted my test in hopes that someone on here would know the electric schematics of a 4cyl Fiero, ignition coil plugs and module plugs.

"I tested it just like the http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p435/Amos830_photos/SL732507.jpg - book showed . The original coil that I pulled gave no measurements of any kind on any of the 3 tests. The other two I have, gave readings just like my book said they should."

Well there's a first time for everything! It's unusual to find a bad one.

For schematics, visit autozone...they have the electrical schematics there. Look at the engine wiring, 4 cyl, 84-86. The colours ar enot right as previously mentioned, but the circuit is correct. They may not mean much to you but if we are looking at the same thing I can explain it to you.

Chay

Good work. Glad you found the culprit!

Chay