Problem #1...is the blowby white or dark. If it's rings, my experience has been that it will be black/oily. If it's white...could be condensed water (No problem, just takes time to clear) or coolant leaking internally somewhere (Longshot, but possible). Give it time and see if it changes.

Problem #2. Likely rich idle, I agree. If it does this when worm (worm? warm), you might look into it further. When cold, this is somewhat expected. Check your plugs for carbon build up at your first oil change. If none, forget about it.

P3: Sounds like paint. Not a great smell.

P4: Do you men that you need to leave two batteries connected for 5 minute before it will start? If so, this is indicitive of a very weak battery. What happens is that the weak one in your car will consume the available current from the jump battery, and the car will therefore not start due to lack of supply. After time the car battery will charge somewhat, allowing the charge battery to turn the engine over.

Do not continue this situation. The excessive chaerge current into the weak battery is similar to a short circuit and will cause a large buildup of heat, which could lead to explosion. Replace the battery, or just use your 'jump' battery by itself.

P5: Cluthes hydraulics are murder on these cars. Remove the slave. Pop off the rubber end plug, push in the plunger and look for corosion in the cylinder bore. If any, you need a new slave. There is a special bleed procedure as well. Park on an incline, crack the bleeder. Wait for pure fluid to run out. Then , with the bleeder open, vice grip the push rod and push it back into the cylinder. Fluid WILL squirt out. SLOWLY allow the push rod to slide back out. Maintain positive flow out of the bleeder. When the rod is fully out, close the bleeder. This will purge and air bubbles trapped in the cylinder.

On the master end, pull the rubber on the pushrod and look for fluid. If any, replace the master.

I didn't get a good clutch until I replaced the master and slave. Just the way it goes.

This is so weird. It does sound like head gasket to me, like the coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. This would account for the black exhaust. I had a intake manifold leak on a v6 chrysler which did a similar thing, only what it did was feed oil and coolant into one of the intake passages. My exhaust had a bit of a sweet smell, and brownish water coming out.

I'm trying to figure out how it could get into your pcv system though. Perhaps there are 2 things messing with you. 

On the pcv, to sort this out...most pcv systems have an air 'source' tapped off the clean side of the air cleaner which goes to one side of the engine, then the other side (With the pcv valve) goes to the manifold for vaccuum.

When you are seeing the fluid, are these lines disconnected (IE pressure from inside the crankcase) or is the fluid being drawn up by the engine vaccuum?

How does your oil look on your dipstick??? Is it a milkshake (White, showing water ingress)??

Do you have a coolant line which goes to your throttle body for heating?

Chay

If you don't want to spend money right away (O2 sensor) then pull the plugs and do a comp test. Look at the plugs as you remove them, 1 by one. Note the condition and the cylinder it came from. Now do the comp test.

If you find a funny looking plug, and the comp test backs it up you have 2 indicators as to what's going on.

Re: The pcv...if there are just breathers at either end the system won't work. There should be a connection from the pcv valve to vaccuum. The vaccuum 'pulls' air through the crankcase from the other breather. The other end is fine, it is a source of filtered air into the crankcase.

So, one or both of these lines were puking fluid??? It can only come from under the valve covers which indicates a LARGE quantity of fluid. Sounds like a cracked head where the coolant is coming into the rocker arm gallery under the valve cover.

What I would do is pull a rocker cover and run the engine. You should be able to see where the fluid is coming from. It could be from here the fluid in ingressing through the valve guides into the intake ports and is then being 'burned'.

Just a theroy.

Chay

A wet test is where you squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders which seals the rings. then you redo the results. If there is much of a difference with the numbers wet to dry it indicates ring problems. If not, and the numbers are low, it's likely valves.

With a computer controlled ignition advance, the computer is always controlling the timing. To remove the computers' influence, you go to 'bypass mode' which allows you to set the 'base' timing. This is a value (usually 10deg btdc) that the ecm knows. It controlls advance from this point on.

For example: 10deg base+20deg from computer = 30 deg total advance.

Re:pcv system....now I'm really confused. Post pictures of your system. How could there be fluid coming out of the pcv system without it being in the rocker covers (Where the pcv system connects to). Are you sure you are talking abot the pcv system (Positive crankcase ventilation)?

Chay

1 more thing on the compression test...to mean anything the following must be true:

1) All plugs removed

2) throttle wide open

3) Well charged battery/good starter

Otherwise the results are meaningless. If you can, use a partner and see how many 'pumps' it takes to get to 90% of the max reading (In other words, how fast does compression build)? The faster the better the sealing.

Chay