Cheese wrote: This car is sold now.

Oh yeah, tell us more...

Patrick wrote: Cheese wrote: This car is sold now.  Oh yeah, tell us more...

I'm thinking Colby wants to place higher at autox. 

AllanJ wrote: Patrick wrote: Cheese wrote: This car is sold now.  Oh yeah, tell us more... I'm thinking Colby wants to place higher at autox.

I'm thinking Colby really wants to embarrass me at autox!

Cheese wrote: So for now at least the plan is to keep the car relatively stock, just replace as much worn out stuff as I can, etc.

Ya gotta take one coil off those front springs. Ya just gotta.

Cheese wrote: ...which means no cutting springs... I could change my mind on this though

I won't tell if you don't.

Cheese wrote: and I'll probably be in the STR class anyway until I can get some proper tires to mount on the 15" rims.

Just for the track, why couldn't you use the wheels and tires you currently have on the duke for now?

Unless a person really thinks they can win a particular "class" (and receives the million dollar bonus that goes with the distinction), what real difference does it make to a weekend warrior what class they're in?

Speaking for myself, all I'm concerned with is going around the course as fast as I can, how ever I can. I couldn't care less what class I was in.

I know, I have an attitude problem.

Patrick wrote: Unless a person really thinks they can win a particular "class" (and receives the million dollar bonus that goes with the distinction), what real difference does it make to a weekend warrior what class they're in? Speaking for myself, all I'm concerned with is going around the course as fast as I can, however I can. I couldn't care less what class I was in. I know, I have an attitude problem.

It's just the competitiveness in me. I can't simply ignore the indexed times if I know they exist, and I'm going to do everything I can to make sure it's as good as it can be.

Cheese wrote: It's just the competitiveness in me. I can't simply ignore the indexed times if I know they exist, and I'm going to do everything I can to make sure it's as good as it can be.

I can't ignore the raw times which certainly exist, and the competitiveness in me wants to do everything I can (modifications, whatever) to get around the track as quickly as possible.

I feel the same way about "bracket" racing at the drag strip. I can't stand the idea of drivers trying to pace themselves so as to get as close as possible to some predetermined quarter mile time. The heck with that nonsense. Pedal to the metal all the way!

Patrick wrote: Cheese wrote: It's just the competitiveness in me. I can't simply ignore the indexed times if I know they exist, and I'm going to do everything I can to make sure it's as good as it can be. I can't ignore the raw times which certainly exist, and the competitiveness in me wants to do everything I can (modifications, whatever) to get around the track as quickly as possible. I feel the same way about "bracket" racing at the drag strip. I can't stand the idea of drivers trying to pace themselves so as to get as close as possible to some predetermined quarter mile time. The heck with that nonsense. Pedal to the metal all the way!

Well, my goal is simply to get the best raw time I can without screwing up my indexed time in the process.

...oh yeah...don't cut coils or otherwise do destructive changes to the car.  This way you can put it back to stock in the future to retain its value.  If you want to do things like that, buy replacement parts to install or butcher.  You'll be happier down the road.

Take it from a guy who has all kinds of OEM parts for my car in my basement: shocks, springs, suspension links, seats, wing, interior bits.... 

AllanJ wrote: ...oh yeah...don't cut coils or otherwise to destructive changes to the car.  This way you can put it back to stock in the future to retain its value.  If you want to do things like that, buy replacement parts to install or butcher.

Wise words and I agree.

The point I was making was that the nose desperately needs to lowered. All the 88's look like this stock, and it's... it's... just not right!

Patrick wrote: Ya gotta take one coil off those front springs. Ya just gotta.

Patrick wrote: The point I was making was that the nose desperately needs to lowered. All the 88's look like this stock, and it's... it's... just not right!

I agree 100% (and that difference between front & rear really stood out to me when I saw the pic) 

Colby is kicking butt in another area right now and that's with trying to breathe a little life into the paint on his new baby.  Twenty-three years of neglect has resulted in a paint job that had definitely seen better times.  So he came by yesterday for some instruction and the use of my Porter Cable polisher to see what can be done about the paint on his car.

Sample of dull paint and this is after a wash and clay bar treatment to remove years of crud and grit from the paint:

Yeah, the pic sucks, but it'll get the point across.  The paint is starting to perk up (only the right side of the hood was done at this point so look just above the headlight to see the shine). 

Colby at work (and you can see his reflection in the headlight cover):

Colby is doing a great job.  Still a ton of work to do on the rest of the car, but there is a drastic improvement in the areas he has worked on so far.  Nice job! 

Allan

AllanJ wrote: Colby at work (and you can see his reflection in the headlight cover)...

Atta boy, Colby! Just gotta get that front end down a notch or two next.

AllanJ wrote: ...trying to breathe a little life into the paint ...neglect has resulted in a paint job that had definitely seen better times.

Allan, can the techniques that Colby's using on his paint also be applied to situations where the clear coat is getting "cloudy"?

Burn that paint with a non-orbital buffer...Mr. Coach, train him to wrap the cord over his shoulder...I'll be next to visit, I'll do most of the pre-work at home

Patrick wrote: Allan, can the techniques that Colby's using on his paint also be applied to situations where the clear coat is getting "cloudy"?

Maybe....but usually not.  When the clear starts to break down you're doomed.  However, all it takes it some elbow grease and some of the stuff in my garage to give it a shot and see if your clear coat is just really, really dirty.  I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

Bassman wrote: Burn that paint with a non-orbital buffer...Mr. Coach, train him to wrap the cord over his shoulder...I'll be next to visit, I'll do most of the pre-work at home

Already told him about the power cord....but he forgot that one time only. 

I do have a rotary buffer so we can burn the paint on your car, Brian.  No charge either! 

I had to use the rotary when I wetsanded Gary's car.  I had to turn this:

...into that:

...and there was no way an orbital (like Colby's using) was going to get there in my lifetime.

Ok...so you have some talent Allan, when's that media room ready?...lol

And NO you will not burn my paint...Colby, really looking forward to when it's done, feels really good looking at a fresh looking car also

Nice feeling hey Graeme, knowing your car is being taken care of...by the time Allan is done with Colby, he may want to keep her stock and get plates

How's your other car Graeme...hope your having a good summer

Graeme wrote: That car can really use that clean up, good luck Colby. I suspect it'll clean up really nicely as I had meant to get around to it with confidence it would look about 2000% better than it does now. I'm quite sure it's the original paint on there.. Looks great so far

There are still quite a few deep scratches that won't come out with the compound, but the car will look good from a few feet away.    The passenger side front bumper looks like it was sprayed with some rattle-can paint so we might repaint that part one of these days.  I have a paint gun and respirator so we'd just need to set up a small spray booth and get some paint.

Remember that white mark on the leading edge driver's side of the rear spoiler?  That's about 90% gone now by using a clay bar.  Looks like it was some white paint that got on there somehow.  The polishing compound will get the rest off.

I just need Brian to buy that tiny machine polisher since I don't have one. 

Something like this would make for a great tech day. Everyone who wishes to participate could chip in for supplies and the end result would be a lot of fine looking cars.

Many of us (certainly myself) have absolutely no idea what it takes to properly shine up a car.

The paint on my '84 is probably beyond redemption, but I'd love to get my black '86 GT looking good again.

Patrick wrote: Something like this would make for a great tech day. Everyone who wishes to participate could chip in for supplies and the end result would be a lot of fine looking cars. Many of us (certainly myself) have absolutely no idea what it takes to properly shine up a car. The paint on my '84 is probably beyond redemption, but I'd love to get my black '86 GT looking good again.

Yes, a tech session on this would be a good thing for the members.  Here's a good source of info to start. 

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html - http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

Few random thoughts:

- Correcting the paint takes a very long time. Wetsanding Gary's 914 and bringing it to the pic shown above probably took me 40 hours.  If I was more experienced it would've been faster, but that's what it takes.

- Doing Colby's hood took a few hours including instruction and getting familiar with the process.  It required a lot of work and the orbital polisher is safe to use, but slow.  Paint that isn't as far gone would be faster.

- Once you have the paint in a state where you're happy with it, the single best thing you can do is to wash and wax your car regularly.  However, many people wash their cars in a way that scratches the paint.  Check out the link above and use wool wash mitts with two 5-gallon buckets.  One for wash water and the other for rinsing.  I wipe down a portion of a panel and then hose off the mitt to clean off much of the grit, and then rinse it in the rinse bucket, then go into the wash bucket for more soapy water.  This keeps the wash water (and mitt) clean and reduces the amount of grit I rub on the paint.

- If you have stubborn stains (dried on bird crap you didn't notice, road tar, bug guts, etc), don't scrub like crazy with the mitt.  You will probably scratch the paint.  Use an appropriate spot cleaner and then a clay bar if the surface appears to be blemished.

- Use a clay bar once a year (or maybe a little more if your car is outside a lot).  If you wash and dry the car and gently glide your fingertip along the paint, it should feel smooth.  If it feels gritty like fine sandpaper, then you should clay the car to clean the paint.  Then put a quality wax on the car because your wax was worn out (wax protects the paint and reduces the ability of stuff to contaminate it).

- If your paint is in good shape but could use some cleaning, I'd wash the car, clay the car, wash the car again, (optional - a glaze can fill tiny scratches), and then finally some wax.

- Once you start looking out there, you will see a million different products and an equal number of opinions on what process/products to use.  Find one that fits your energy level and budget and stick to a routine....and keep your car waxed!

- Check out the link above and look at all the steps to see what's involved for the entire process.  There is a ton of great info in there.

Cheers,

Allan