Fiero spitting out COOLANT
Printed From: West Coast Fieros
Category: Technical Topics Forum
Forum Name: Technical Questions and Discussions
Forum Description: Got a technical question about your fiero? ask it here.
URL: http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2557
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Topic: Fiero spitting out COOLANT
Posted By: InfernoFiero
Subject: Fiero spitting out COOLANT
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 2:02pm
Hello,
I was driving my Fiero two days ago, and I actually dipped into the 4 rpm (fast acceleration) and my car is the 1986 4 cyl version. It was overheating, I pulled over and when I opened the hood of the car I could see the coolant spraying out of the coolant cap. I fortunately pulled over near a mechanic shop, and with just the visual inspection the mechanic concluded that nothing was damaged with the coolant, and all the coolant leak was from the coolant cap. When I opened the hood I observed the coolant was at maximum level, but by the time the mechanic came it was below low. Anyways, I topped off with the coolant I bought from the mechanic, and it was good to go.
Now, today, I was driving on the North Shore hill, stuck in traffic, and my car strangely was overheating AGAIN. I could hear sounds from the front of the car that sounded like "WHIR WHIR WHIR", and I could instantaneously feel it was coolant related. I pulled over once again and I noticed that the coolant was dripping from the cap, and the coolant level was at maximum, and by waiting 10 mins more the coolant was gone to below minimum.
Can anyone give me a rough or even a vague idea of why this is happening? I always check my engine oil and coolant level on a regular basis, and I know no coolant pipe has broke!
I am sorry if I am burden to this forum with such silly Fiero questions!!! Thanks in ADVANCE!
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Replies:
Posted By: Dawg
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 6:49pm
Hello.
On this Forum there are no silly Fiero questions.
It sounds like your fan is not working. Some cars have a heat switch on the motor and some fans are controlled by the computer. I would check to make sure the electric fan actually functions then if it's ok, then find why it's not getting power.
The Dawg
------------- You dream it up....I'll make it
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 7:16pm
I don't know what kind of fan I have.
If my fan has the heat switch I would best check it out by
turning on my car's A/C!
"http://www.calgaryfieros.com/OSGdocs/coolant-fan.html"
But how would I check my fan performance if it is the
electric one?
Thank you!
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Posted By: Colby
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 7:58pm
I had similar issues with my 86 Duke. If I sat in traffic for too long car would get really hot before the fan turned on and sometimes the coolant would boil out of the reservoir. I bought Rodney Dickman's lower temp http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=88 - fan switch and http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=87 - thermostat and haven't had any issues since. And of course you should verify that your fan is actually coming on when you reach temps that high.
------------- 88 Formula 5 speed
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 9:02pm
Hello,
Thanks for your responses! So, I turned on the air
condition for my car for maximum heat, and my fan was
working! So I can acknowledge the fan works!
Should I get this part then
(http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?
cPath=21&products_id=235)? It says its for 84-86 L4 Fiero
but I have no idea what L4 means...
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 9:20pm
InfernoFiero wrote:
I could hear sounds from the front of the car that sounded like "WHIR WHIR WHIR", and I could instantaneously feel it was coolant related. |
So you know your fan works.
I suspect the overheating is not a fan issue at all.
Do you know how to properly "burp" the Fiero's cooling system?
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Posted By: Dawg
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 9:37pm
What you need to do is let the car idle in the driveway with the front hood open. Watch the heat gauge as it goes up and up. Listen for the fan coming on or keep an eye out for it. Make note when it happens.
Make sure your air conditioning is off. We want it to come on because the car is getting too hot not because the air conditioning is on.
The Dickman lower temp switch usually ends up masking the real problem and making your car run way too cold. This will give you bad gas mileage and will eventually start overheating later once the real problem gets bad enough.
If your fan ends up coming on at the right time then you might just need to "burp" the coolant system.
The Dawg
------------- You dream it up....I'll make it
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 02 July 2011 at 9:50pm
Is this a good guide on burping the coolant system
(http://www.calgaryfieros.com/OSGdocs/cooling-
system.html)Patrick? Before I do that though, I will double
check the fan by doing what Dawg suggested!
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Posted By: Colby
Date Posted: 03 July 2011 at 2:22am
Dawg wrote:
The Dickman lower temp switch usually ends up masking the real problem and making your car run way too cold. This will give you bad gas mileage and will eventually start overheating later once the real problem gets bad enough. |
Yes, I agree, it's not necessarily the way to solve a problem with your cooling system. As for the downsides, in my duke at least, the car runs at the same temperature as always and my gas mileage is the same as far as I can tell (I check every tank). Do the V6's need to run warmer or is it possible my car has always run a bit too cold?
------------- 88 Formula 5 speed
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Posted By: Capt Fiero
Date Posted: 03 July 2011 at 11:21am
On the V6 I recommend running the stock fan switch and a 180 thermostat. Running temp on a V6 is usually a tic below the 105 mark (middle) of the gauge. In traffic long enough mine will creep up to about 108 then the fan comes on and drops it way down quickly.
------------- Capt Fiero
88 Fiero GT 5spd V6
Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd.
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 03 July 2011 at 12:19pm
Capt Fiero wrote:
On the V6 I recommend running the stock fan switch and a 180 thermostat. |
Funny, on my '86 GT (automatic), after many different combinations tried, I decided on the exact opposite. I settled for Dickman's 210° on and 200° off fan switch and the factory 195° thermostat. Overheating was never a problem with this thermostat/fan switch pairing. I now have the same combination with my '84 duke and it works great.
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 03 July 2011 at 12:24pm
InfernoFiero wrote:
Is http://www.calgaryfieros.com/OSGdocs/cooling-system.html - This a good guide on burping the coolant system, Patrick? |
I usually have the nose lower than the back a bit, but yes, these directions are fine.
Burping the cooling system
Here's what I do to purge air from the coolant system.
The trick is to take the thermostat out and leave it out until you are sure that all of the air is purged from the system.
Park on level ground.
- Remove both the radiator cap, the thermostat cap, and the thermostat.
- Slowly begin pouring your 50/50 mix of coolant into the thermostat opening, carefully watching the radiator opening.
- When coolant begins comming out the radiator opening, re-install and tighten the radiator cap, top off the coolant in the thermostat opening, re-install and tighten the thermostat cap.
- Start the engine for ~30 seconds then kill the engine.
- Remove the thermoststat cap and top the coolant off. Loosen the radiator cap and wiggle it until coolant begins to come out, retighten the cap, top off the coolant in the thermostat opening and re-install the thermostat cap.
- Repeat steps 4 & 5 until you are satisfied that all of the air is out of the system. You might want to make a short run to the beer store with the thermostat out, LET THE ENGINE COOL, then repeat steps 4 & 5 again.
- Re-install the thermostat.
NOTE: Fiero owners should bleed the coolant system anytime the coolant reservoir runs dry. i.e. system has sucked air into the radiator. |
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Posted By: ARTIC-1
Date Posted: 03 July 2011 at 4:31pm
I have the same problem with my 87/stock 2.8.could be a Vaccume leek or water pump isnt moveing coolant quickly vary fast,if i rev it up a bit,over 2000 it cools off real quick.the Eng temp moves to fast,up an down,poor flow,over volume.so i found this an thinking of giving it a try.
------------- SNOW MAN
87-GT/AUTO-2.8_ WHITE
88-TTop/ Duke-2.5. RED
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Posted By: Dawg
Date Posted: 04 July 2011 at 12:53am
Your water pump is buggered my friend. Loosen your alternator belt and try and wiggle the pump pulley. If it moves at all, it needs to be replaced.
ARTIC-1 wrote:
I have the same problem with my 87/stock 2.8.could be a Vaccume leek or water pump isnt moveing coolant quickly vary fast,if i rev it up a bit,over 2000 it cools off real quick.the Eng temp moves to fast,up an down,poor flow,over volume.so i found this an thinking of giving it a try.
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------------- You dream it up....I'll make it
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 7:31pm
Does a 1984 Fiero have a thermostat? I can't find it, and
it seems to me that online part store sells thermostats for
Fiero from 1985 and above.
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 7:42pm
InfernoFiero wrote:
Does a 1984 Fiero have a thermostat? I can't find it... |
If you can't find it, it probably doesn't have one installed.
It's (supposed to be) in the same place as with every '84-'88 Fiero... under the coolant fill cap on the engine.
Patrick wrote:
For anyone who's interested, the part number for a Stant SuperStatŪ 195°F thermostat for a Fiero is 45819
The current price at Lordco is $13.99 (with our club discount). |
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 7:54pm
Patrick, could my Fiero be spitting out coolant because I
don't have this part?
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 7:56pm
InfernoFiero wrote:
Patrick, could my Fiero be spitting out coolant because I don't have this part? |
I suspect it's the other way around. Someone probably removed the thermostat because it was spitting out coolant (overheating). However, that's not the solution.
Did you ever "burp" the system as we advised?
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 7:58pm
No, I haven't. I was about do it right now, until I
realized I didn't have a thermostat. Can I go on with the
procedure of burping the coolant system and just ignore the
directions in regards to the thermostat etc.
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 8:00pm
Sure, but don't keep driving it without a thermostat as your engine will never heat up properly (which will kill your gas mileage and it's hard on the engine).
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 9:51pm
I found the thermostat. I didn't know this was in the
back... I think I know where the thermostat cap is too
now... but I don't where the radiator opening IN the back
is. I don't have a Fiero Manual, and I know I couldn't hold
out without one for so long. My apologies, hopefully I will
find a manual soon!
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 10:09pm
As I said in my PM response to you, go to the http://www.captfiero.com/paperbased - Paper Based Archives , specifically http://www.captfiero.com/paperbased/Tech%20Sheets/ - Here and you should find all the info you need.
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 31 July 2011 at 7:53pm
Hello,
This post is from a while ago, but I did manage to
hopefully burp the coolant system.
My car overheated again though today while I was doing
some driving, I always check my temp gauge, and it slowly
creeped above 220, and I managed to pull over at around
230 to see if the fan is running, and to my surprise IT
wasn't. The temp was going higher and higher and nothing
happened with the fan.
Does this narrow down to the fact that my fan sensor is
broken, and I can get a replacement sensor from the
Rodney Dickmans store to fix this once and for all?
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 31 July 2011 at 8:02pm
InfernoFiero wrote:
...can I get a replacement sensor from Rodney Dickmans store to fix this once and for all? |
Works for me.
Patrick wrote:
Dickman's 210° on and 200° off fan switch and the factory 195° thermostat. |
This is based on the assumption (rightly or wrongly) that there is nothing else wrong with your Fiero.
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Posted By: Dawg
Date Posted: 31 July 2011 at 9:21pm
Make sure the fan itself is ok before buying the fan switch. One way to do this is by taking the plug off the switch and shorting the contact to ground (engine). If you do that, the fan should turn on. Ignition switch has to be on.
Dawg
------------- You dream it up....I'll make it
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 31 July 2011 at 10:56pm
Dawg wrote:
Make sure the fan itself is ok before buying the fan switch. |
Damien, I believe he said the fan works, but I'm not 100% sure!
InfernoFiero wrote:
I could hear sounds from the front of the car that sounded like "WHIR WHIR WHIR", and I could instantaneously feel it was coolant related. |
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 2:19am
My fan works when I put the a/c on to full blast, is
that a good indication in itself?
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 9:37am
InfernoFiero wrote:
My fan works when I put the a/c on to full blast... |
I don't believe "full blast" is necessary.
So I'm curious... when your Fiero appears to be overheating, why don't you activate the rad fan by turning on the a/c then? That's not the solution to your engine cooling issues, but it should at least prevent coolant from puking out of the reservoir (unless there are additional problems).
InfernoFiero wrote:
My car overheated again though today while I was doing some driving, I always check my temp gauge, and it slowly creeped above 220, and I managed to pull over at around 230... |
As long as you're moving forward, no fan is required to maintain proper coolant temperatures. You still have the air deflector under the front of your Fiero, don't you?
If your Fiero is actually overheating (and it's not just a faulty gauge/sender), then either you haven't burped the cooling system properly, your water pump is faulty (loose impeller), or there's a restriction to the coolant flow (crushed pipes, plugged rad), etc.
One of our club members (who shall remain nameless) used to have a problem with his Fiero overheating worse when his fan came on, and only while he was driving. It would cool down fine when he stopped. Turns out he had wired the fan in backwards and the fan was trying to push air forward through the rad the same time as air was naturally trying to flow back through the rad. The end result was that there was no air flow through the rad (when the fan was running while the car was moving). Took him awhile to figure out the problem! True story.
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 12:33pm
My car was overheating shortly after exiting lions gate
bridge and while being stuck in downtown traffic (stop and
little go). I think it was the lack of movement that lead
to my car overheating. I just found more info on this air
deflector, and I'll check if my car has that though. I'll
burp the coolant system one more time too.
So as long as any Fiero is moving forward the fan doesn't
come on as there is no need, or are you just theorizing
that the fan is simply not needed when going forward?
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 12:37pm
InfernoFiero wrote:
..or are you just theorizing that the fan is simply not needed when going forward? |
It's not just a "theory".
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 4:13pm
On a seperate note, I can't open my thermostat cap. I am
trying very hard and it just won't budge. Any special
tricks?
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 6:16pm
How'd you get it off when you burped the coolant system?
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 6:22pm
I opened it without any hassle the first time, just simply
screwing it off!
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 6:26pm
Well, it's not corroded on then. Just use something like a wet rag to give your hands a bit more grip.
You could also use a large pipe wrench, but you gotta be careful. You don't want to deform the cap or especially the neck.
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Posted By: Dawg
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 9:03pm
Ummm, they don't just screw off. You have to push fairly hard while turning till you get the lid past the locking tabs.
The Dawg
------------- You dream it up....I'll make it
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 9:14pm
Dawg wrote:
Ummm, they don't just screw off. You have to push fairly hard while turning till you get the lid past the locking tabs. |
Do you actually push your thermostat cap down while turning? I never have. I'm aware of the locking tabs you're referring to, but I find if I just turn the cap without cocking it off to one side or another that it'll "click" past the tabs and continue to turn to come off.
Having said that, yes, I do push down on a rad cap when turning to remove it.
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Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 01 August 2011 at 11:13pm
InfernoFiero wrote:
I opened it without any hassle the first time, just simply screwing it off! |
It just dawned on me that perhaps the first time you took off the thermostat cap that possibly it wasn't turned all the way on and therefore had not clicked past the tabs that Damien (Dawg) was referring to. If that's the case, and if you twisted it all the way on when you replaced it, that might explain why it seems more difficult this time around to remove.
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Posted By: InfernoFiero
Date Posted: 06 August 2011 at 3:15pm
I believe I have burped the coolant system.
After repeating step 4 and 5 twice, I turn on the engine
for 30 seconds, and see that the coolant has gone down just
a tiny bit in the thermostat opening... Should I assume
that I have removed almost most of the air out of the
system because in the burping instructions it mentions that
after briefly turning on the car that I should top up the
thermostat opening.
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