Hey all...I am registering, who's in other than Colby?...

http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3719 - http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3719

http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3719#p26318 - Sunday August 7th PCA-CWR Autocross

Bassman wrote: Hey all...I am registering, who's in other than Colby?...

I'm registered.

I feel an obligation to participate as Colby's track times will continue to improve much more quickly with the Mighty Duke snapping at his heels. This is just my way of giving back to the community.

I just noticed the following over at the Porsche forum. Shall I give Rich a call?

http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3719#p26349 - Re: Sunday August 7th PCA-CWR Autocross

http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/viewtopic.php?p=26349#p26349"> by http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=108 - Rich_Sandor » Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:51 pm

Patrick wrote: I just noticed the following over at the Porsche forum. Shall I give Rich a call? http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3719#p26349 - Re: Sunday August 7th PCA-CWR Autocross http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/viewtopic.php?p=26349#p26349"> by http://porsche.jeffgrant.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=108 - Rich_Sandor » Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:51 pm Gary Watson / Ben Cheng / anyone with a fast car.. I could use a quick car to safety check the course tonight.. if anyone is available around 6pm or so, I would appreciate it if you call me at 604.908.7944 .. Thanks a ton! Rich

Long drive

Cheese wrote: Rich just added 5 more spots, so if anyone wanted to register but missed it, now's your chance. http://www.karelo.com/register.php?BID=374&BT=10#Ev11011 - http://www.karelo.com/register.php?BID=374&BT=10#Ev11011

Too late.    Yesterday was thinking of going to PCA autox on Sunday and watching my friend race today (2 days of racing at Mission), but autox was full.  Stuck with original plan of going to Mission on Sunday and went to IPSC competition (handgun shooting) today instead. A friend was competing and it's something I'll try next year.  Just what I need....more hobbies to compete with each other! 

Wakey wakey !!!

Oh, it's going to be warm today!

Colby, get out of bed!

Brian was there when I arrived. Colby eventually made it.

Brian had a problem. I'll let him post about it.

Colby won something. I'll let him post about it.

And I'm getting frustrated. I need at least two more cylinders and softer tires.

I'll post more later. I'm feeling stunned from one beer after baking in the sun...

Colby: how did the runs go?  I gather you embraced the gas pedal after reading Patrick's post.    What did you win? 

Nice Colby...well since SCAN won't work for you, great gift for someone who could

What a beautiful day today was...I felt the karma and think I did it to myself bitching about the course...well I did not even get out of the launch...lol

Colby...cudo's for not saying a work, amazed how quiet you kept

Here is a vid, I didn't notice until 14 minutes that vid was still on...WARNING on the "F" Bombs...very happy it is only the CV and not the engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH4OA4fwlfo&feature=youtube_gdata - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH4OA4fwlfo&feature=youtu be_gdata

Here are a couple of shots...could not get the car up and checked out, my jack's busted, go figure...I'll get to it this week.  I already picked up the CV, Gary suggested doing both which is not a bad idea...I know a few can help one day/night...I cook a mean steak & prawns and always a cold one, two, or three...after the first you help yourself

Here's a few pics...

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u243/Bassman68/Aug7thBlowOut007.jpg - http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u243/Bassman68/Aug7thBlow Out007.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u243/Bassman68/Aug7thBlowOut005.jpg - http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u243/Bassman68/Aug7thBlow Out005.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u243/Bassman68/Aug7thBlowOut003.jpg - http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u243/Bassman68/Aug7thBlow Out003.jpg

Not sure they could have a clue what to do with our car's...think your dad or uncle could use it, they have the German machines...thank you for the offer

Bassman wrote: Colby...cudo's for not saying a work, amazed how quiet you kept Here is a vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH4OA4fwlfo&feature=youtu be_gdata - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH4OA4fwlfo&feature=youtu be_gdata

Car: BANG !!!

Brian: Oh sh*t !!

Colby: Uh oh

...

Heh heh, not laughing at the situation. Laughing at Colby's quiet little "Uh oh" after the CV snapped.

Brian, let me/us know when you want to replace the CV. We'll make an evening (or day) of it (depending on your schedule). Have beer on hand. Cold.

Well we can make it a few nights if required, just means two nice dinners...lol

Tha was funny...and thanks Patrick

Cheese wrote: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoRF7Gv8l7c - Here's my fastest run.

Pretty smooth, Colby. Nice!

Patrick wrote: And I'm getting frustrated. I need at least two more cylinders and softer tires.

What's happening is that because the duke has next to NO acceleration (compared to EVERY other car at these autocrosses) is that I'm now trying to manouver through pylons and go through sweeps without slowing down enough. I know it sounds stupid, but I don't want to slow down because I can't get going again. Compounding the problem (that's actually a pun) is that the tire compound I'm running (street tires) is way too hard for the track. The end result... I'm sliding all over the place and nailing pylons left and right.

I'm getting frustrated because I want to go faster, and surprise suprise, I'm going slower because I'm all over the freakin' place.

The car actually handles way better since the the front suspension was reworked and the rear sway bar was added, but I'm just not happy with not being able to step on the accelerator and... and... accelerating!

No, this isn't going to stop me (and yes, I still enjoy these events), but next summer I'll need to be autocrossing a different car.

Patrick wrote: Patrick wrote: And I'm getting frustrated. I need at least two more cylinders and softer tires. What's happening is that because the duke has next to NO acceleration (compared to EVERY other car at these auto crosses) is that I'm now trying to maneuver through pylons and go through sweeps without slowing down enough. I know it sounds stupid, but I don't want to slow down because I can't get going again. Compounding the problem (that's actually a pun) is that the tire compound I'm running (street tires) is way too hard for the track. The end result... I'm sliding all over the place and nailing pylons left and right. I'm getting frustrated because I want to go faster, and surprise surprise, I'm going slower because I'm all over the freaking' place. The car actually handles way better since the the front suspension was reworked and the rear sway bar was added, but I'm just not happy with not being able to step on the accelerator and... and... accelerating! No, this isn't going to stop me (and yes, I still enjoy these events), but next summer I'll need to be auto crossing a different car.

If you want I can loan you my Nitrous gear.  You just have to pay for the bottle fill up.  Its $100 for a full bottle and it should last 2 full track days assuming you just run a 50hp shot and not the 100hp shot that I usually run on the V6.  A 50hp shot won't give you much more high rpm power, but it will be like adding an extra 100ftlbs of torque in the 1000-4000rpm range.

Capt Fiero wrote: Patrick wrote: ... because the duke has next to NO acceleration (compared to EVERY other car at these auto crosses) If you want I can loan you my Nitrous gear.

Dave, I appreciate the offer, but I'm afraid I'd blow something on the duke.

Of course, there have been times when I've wanted to blow up the duke, but for now I'd like to keep 'er in one piece.

Cheese wrote: quick results in RAW format: http://members.shaw.ca/rsandor3/pcacwr2 ... g7fin.html

Okay, here's where Colby and I stood in relation to each other.

I wasn't last, but I'd still like to be doing a lot better!

Colby Johanson 1988 Pontiac Fiero Red ........ 58.476
Stephanie Lee 2007 Honda Fit Red ................. 58.646
Juan Solanoy 2010 Vw Gti Grey ..................... 59.937
Norm Hiller Porsche 964 Black ....................... 60.838
Wesley Arnold 2007 Mazda3 Plum .................. 60.870
Darrell Fung 1991 BMW 325i White ................ 61.645
Patrick Sheridan 1984 Pontiac Fiero Gold ...... 61.765
Ian Fung 2009 VW GTI White ....... (57.785+2) 61.785
Louis Law 1991 BMW 325i White ................... 62.042
Andrew Nguyen 2010 Acura TSX ... (62.753+1) 64.753

(Two second penalty added to timed run for each pylon hit.)

Colby: I think you did pretty good and didn't leave too much time out there.  I was happy to hear the tires working. 

Brian: Sorry about the CV.  Yep, change both of them.  You'll have it all apart, just get 'er done.

Patrick: For the Sept PCA autox, I'd love to take your car for a drive at lunch.  I was usually able to get about 2 more seconds from Colby's Duke and am curious how you're doing out there.  Still, even with 2 seconds taken off your time you won't be mid-pack. 

AllanJ wrote: Patrick: For the Sept PCA autox, I'd love to take your car for a drive at lunch.

Allan, please be my guest. I'd love to see how you'd do with this car.

During the extra "fun" runs today at the end (after Colby and I took our own cars around the track with each other as passengers), I asked Colby if I could try his Fiero. Colby agreed and I eagerly jumped in and readjusted the seat and off we went. We got as far as the starting grid (next in line to go on the track) and Rich shut 'er down. I was quite disappointed.

Patrick wrote: Allan, please be my guest. I'd love to see how you'd do with this car.

No guarantees I'd beat your time since I'd only get one, or at most two runs in your car.  It would be interesting though. 

Bummer about missing out on driving Colby's car.

As far as the overdriving goes, yeah....you can't do that.  You will be slower.  Something to think about is throttle control and getting back on the gas ASAP when in a turn.

Check out my video and turn the sound way up so you can hear the engine:

http://tinyurl.com/3okuy4j - http://tinyurl.com/3okuy4j

Listen to the engine at the far end (esp 0:17 and 0:20-ish and 0:37-40-ish).  I've slowed down to make the turn but immediately got my foot back on the gas and I'm feeling the car and modulating the throttle to keep the speed up.  Horsepower and tire type is irrelevant here - the key is driving what you have the best it can be driven.

Yes, street tires will make things difficult for good overall results in the standings, but what we need to figure out is are you getting all you can from your car?  You probably aren't too far off.  Funny extreme example: There's a fella who comes to Mission Raceway for trackdays and he firmly believes he's driving his car the best it can be driven.  He has bought racing brakes, racing tires, fancy suspension, etc and he's FREAKING SLOW.  The right driver and a bone stock Mustang will be much faster than him in his souped up Mustang. 

You and Colby should keep an eye on the UBC forum for their Autox101 school.  Join the club and take the school (not sure when it will be offered - but a couple years ago it was in end of Sept).  It will be worth it.  VCMC has their Velocity driving school which is also good.  More $$$ for the same level of teaching at the introductory level as UBC though.  For more advanced driving instruction I recommend VCMC.  They have more skilled drivers than UBC. 

Cheers,

Allan

Parts Update...Lordco does not have the passenger side CV Shafts anymore, they have a few of the left side which I picked up yesterday and that's it...guess I can try NAPA, but this could become a challenging part.

Bassman wrote: Parts Update...Lordco does not have the passenger side CV Shafts anymore, they have a few of the left side which I picked up yesterday and that's it...guess I can try NAPA, but this could become a challenging part.

Bummer.  What's the deal with the outboard CV?

...oh yeah - are you looking for just the CV joint or the entire halfshaft assembly (CV "shaft" might have the parts places looking for an entire assembly)?  Not sure what the outboard end is like on your car.  On the 914 it's fairly simple.  Half shaft (axle) with an outboard CV joint that slides on the splined axle end and an inboard CV that also slides on the splined axle.  The CV joints then bolt up to the stub axles on the outboard end and the transaxle on the inboard end.

Parts places can sell either the CV joints by themselves, axles by themselves, or the entire "halfshaft/axle assembly" which is the halfshaft/axle with CV joints already attached.

AllanJ wrote: ...oh yeah - are you looking for just the CV joint or the entire halfshaft assembly (CV "shaft" might have the parts places looking for an entire assembly)?  Parts places can sell either the CV joints by themselves, axles by themselves, or the entire "halfshaft/axle assembly" which is the halfshaft/axle with CV joints already attached.

That's a good point, Allan.

I'm not very familiar with exactly what we're dealing with here and just what is that "broke" on Brian's car.

I believe it was the inner CV joint that came apart. I suspect that's all we really need to fix/replace, but never having had one apart, I'm not sure how it connects to the outer CV joint.

I wonder what became of part #2 (and that larger "ring" to the left of it) in the diagram below of an inner CV joint?  I didn't notice either piece anywhere (unless they were "hiding" in the rubber boot).

AllanJ wrote: Patrick wrote: Allan, please be my guest. I'd love to see how you'd do with this car. No guarantees I'd beat your time since I'd only get one, or at most two runs in your car.  It would be interesting though.

Allan, you realize of course what would happen if you couldn't beat my time with my car, don't you? I'd become completely insufferable and cocky... something like Tristan.

Thanks for all your tips. I'll watch (and listen) to your video and observe what you're referring to.

Found an excellent thread at PFF showing the steps to replace the axle assembly http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/109708.html - Here . Lots of pictures.

Some worthwhile info http://home.comcast.net/~fierocave/axle.htm - Here as well at Ogre's Cave.

I'm looking to see if I can find a thread about changing just an inner CV (as opposed to the whole axle assembly). Same steps to get it out, but I want to see how the axle/inner/outer CVs are all connected.

Just off the phone with NAPA (called while on lunch), spoke to Murrey in Port Kells and he tried accross Canada, the left side (drivers) there are a few as Lordco, but right is not available anywhere...we may have problems and have to learn how to rebuild these things...

For the meantime the left is broken, let's fix this, and I may retire the car to a social driver, with no garage, etc. I can't maintain a car like this, and I promised Kerstin no money into the Fiero, well over $2k already this year

Bassman wrote: Just off the phone with NAPA (called while on lunch), spoke to Murrey in Port Kells and he tried accross Canada, the left side (drivers) there are a few as Lordco, but right is not available anywhere...we may have problems and have to learn how to rebuild these things...

Brian, as Allan asked, what was it exactly you were trying to track down? The inner CV joint or the entire halfshaft/axle assembly?

I already have the left side CV Half Shaft (whole unit as the diagram above), looking for the right side one as suggested and replace both...well this will be tough since there does not seem to be any in Canada.

David also mentioned I need the rear axle nut socket, I will borrow his more than likely...and I will speak with a buddy Ken who I could borrow his air system for this

84-88 REAR AXLE NUT SOCKET This socket is the proper 30mm size for removing the rear axle nut. Excellent item to have in any Fiero owner's tool box. Not Intended For Use With Impact Wrenches. Part # 51296 Price: $13.95

Maybe US stores...or factory direct...

This is what I am looking for: http://cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=60-1178 - http://cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands /imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=60-1178

Brian, it's fine and dandy to replace both sides (if both are available), but it's not necessary to get your car on the road.

We can replace your passenger side halfshaft if and when you get one.

If a new axle nut doesn't come with the driver's side halfshaft, pick up one of those as well.

I was taking to Gary Hawthorn ( http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/search.asp?KW=indy&SM=1&SI=AR&FM=0&OB=1 - Indy ), and he has volunteered to help as he has some experience changing these components AND he has a 3/4" drive socket for the axle nut! 

totally agree Patrick and thank you...since the news with David I really want to respect his space with his family and let's get this side done...then as David said "it's really easy if you have the right tools"...I can find and plan the right side later.

Would this Saturday morning work?...this will give me time to pick up the compressor and air set from Ken.

Thanks guys...and I'll plan lunch...lol 

PS...should we change the seal?, I can pick one up since I need to buy my 3rd round of Syncromesh...lol

I'll start to clean it up one night this week and get all that grease taken care of...lol

Bassman wrote: Would this Saturday morning work?...this will give me time to pick up the compressor and air set from Ken.

Personally, I don't think the compressor is necessary. I'll ask Gary H his opinion on that and I'll also ask him about Saturday morning.

Bassman wrote: PS...should we change the seal?

Wouldn't the shop have already replaced that seal in the last month? If so, it's fine. If not, sure, pick one up.

I have a 30mm socket too (1/2" drive).  Breaker bar and long pipe have always worked in the past. 

Ball joint removal is an unknown to me.

When I blew up my CV joint in the 914-6, the cage is what blew apart.  The ball bearings just rolled around inside the housing with all the busted cage bits.  I can't remember, but I think I just grabbed another used cage and picked a few undamaged ball bearings, assembled the CV joint, packed it with grease and installed it (my mechanic friend walked me through the procedure and supplied the parts).

Cheese wrote: During my rerun at the end of the morning, I attempted to stay on the throttle the whole way from one gate, through the crossover, then to the next gate and ended up spinning the car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzzN7P_Z5qg - I have it on video here .

Yee haw, that was fun!

Next time say "Watch this!" as you step on the throttle.

It's called "lift throttle oversteer". 

Coming through the crossover you had too much speed to make the turn into the gate, so you lifted off the throttle while turning.

You told the car you wanted more front grip (and less speed) by lifting and this made the weight transfer move to the front.  It gave you extra turning ability, but you lost the traction you needed at the rear of the car so it swung around on you.

Side note: if you were faster putting the clutch in then the car probably wouldn't have stalled.  It's also much safer for the car if you get that clutch in ASAP when you are about to spin.  You don't want to transmit any forces backwards into the engine from the tires when you spin.

I forgot that I had a beauty spin at 55mph (~90km/h) one time and it was caught on camera.  When it started to spin and was unrecoverable, I got two feet in right away.  The car didn't stall and I continued on my run right away. 

http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e254/allansouthsurrey/car%20pics/spin/?action=view&current=5520c4e4.pbw - http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e254/allansouthsurrey/car% 20pics/spin/?action=view&current=5520c4e4.pbw

Another side note: when you see the slide show, watch where I'm looking for the first three frames.  I'm following the golden rule: look where you want to go (as I was trying to steer my way out of the spin).  Then I gave up and went two feet in.

Live and learn....it's all part of the fun. 

Colby: check this video out.  What Tiff (British race car driver) says about the MR2 ~7min into this video directly applies to the Fiero. May as well watch the whole video though. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shwgNV36xFA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shwgNV36xFA

AllanJ wrote: Colby: check this video out.  What Tiff (British race car driver) says about the MR2 ~7min into this video directly applies to the Fiero. May as well watch the whole video though.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shwgNV36xFA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shwgNV36xFA

Great Vid

Guys

Fierosails has a good interchange "library" so I have attached the one for "axelshafts" in case someone is looking for a hobby. In part I have included this because both of the Fieros at PickaPart are AT, and the shafts will not fit a MT. According to my Hollander Interchange the R shaft from 86 - 88 Fiero are the same as well as the L ones from the same years but only for MT. 

http://www.fierosails.com/AxleShafts_CVBoots.html - http://www.fierosails.com/AxleShafts_CVBoots.html

The only difficulty that I had with axelshafts was in removing the inner hub from the tranny, for which I purchased a 4' long wrecking bar. Pat told me that someone had shown him a home made version that looked like a "tuning fork" that would apply equal presssure to both sides. Sounds like a good idea.

There are so few fasteners that need to be removed, that an air tool will not be of much use.

To replace a complete shaft should take less than 1 hour.

Gary @604-986-8199

AllanJ wrote: It's called "lift throttle oversteer".  Coming through the crossover you had too much speed to make the turn into the gate, so you lifted off the throttle while turning. You told the car you wanted more front grip (and less speed) by lifting and this made the weight transfer move to the front.  It gave you extra turning ability, but you lost the traction you needed at the rear of the car so it swung around on you. Side note: if you were faster putting the clutch in then the car probably wouldn't have stalled.  It's also much safer for the car if you get that clutch in ASAP when you are about to spin.  You don't want to transmit any forces backwards into the engine from the tires when you spin.

OK, but if I find myself in that situation again where I'm carrying too much speed, what do I do differently? You can see I tried correcting with the steering, but wasn't nearly quick enough.

Cheese wrote: OK, but if I find myself in that situation again where I'm carrying too much speed, what do I do differently? You can see I tried correcting with the steering, but wasn't nearly quick enough.

Watch that video link I posted with Tiff driving the MR2 (about 7:00). See how fast he spins the wheel and when he spins the wheel. That's your only chance (besides letting the car run wide and missing the gate).  You reacted too late and not fast enough.  Tiff has been racing for years so he makes it look easy.

Hey guys, just a couple quick things.

   If need be, contact Dawg, he has keys to the locker.  There are at least 2 complete sets of Manual Trans CV Shafts.  The OEM ones are stronger than the aftermarket, so I always save them.

   2nd, the rear lower ball joint is NOT a tapered seat.  It is a crimp/clamp style with a grove in the ball joint shaft where the bolt slides through.  Its a 15mm nut and 15mm bolt head.  Once you remove the 15mm nut, tap the bolt out with a long screw driver.  Once the bolt is out, you should just about be able to separate the lower control from the spindle with your bare hands.  There is no hammering needed.  

       The reason I say air tools make it better is that CV nut is a sonofabitch to get off.  I can't remember what its called, but the top of the 30mm nut is ovaled to keep it from backing off.  Which means even once loose it is still as tight as hell.    

        Brian there is no need to replace the seal.  As for your syncromesh, just drain and save it.  Its not going to be bad.

      I did notice something odd in the pics that may have had something to do with the CV failure.  The trans does not seem to be sitting square with the cradle, this would put a HUGE load on the CV.  Its like the Trans/Motor mounts are not installed correctly or have broken away.    Please be sure to inspect all that before you install the new / reman CV shaft.

Cheese wrote: I see it now. He knew it would happen and reacts much sooner, but I didn't expect it and reacted much later.

Exactly.  Professionals like Tiff are amazing in that they've been through this type of thing enough that they know what's going to happen.  The pro driving coach I've hired is like this too.  He was out with a buddy going around the big sweeper at Mission and he told the driver to watch the throttle and the driver didn't heed his warning and the car spun.  A friend of mine (who has hired my coach a lot) was quoted in a magazine article about his coaching saying: "He knows what's going to happen before you do".

Colby: your goal is to be more "in tune" with your car and learn how to anticipate what's going to happen sooner.  Be like Tiff.

One other point to consider from the video: during the skidpad testing where they brought out the really old car and then the two newer cars (and pointed out their max cornering speed and lateral g's), did you hear the tires?    If you've forgotten, check out the video again.

Hi David,

Thanks for the the update and advise...Patrick & Gary (Indy) will be over on Saturday morning to help, the trans not sitting square is concerning, the mounts are poly so if they shortcut the install, I really don't want to go back to this shop...hope this is not the case and my picture was off...lol

Dawg, let's chat as if there are CV shafts as David says, then we can arrange to pick up.

I chatted with Patrick about the seals last night, they should be new as I advised I wanted done, the inside shaft seal I provided them, as for the fluid I'll see if I can drain and re-use...you know me, I'll pick up a few bottles in case:).

I saw a nice 350lb/ft 1/2" electric impact gun at Home Depot for $199, CT had one also...I may pick this up...

Cheers David and thank you...

Patrick & Gary,

I just finished meetings at work and I need to open this Saturday morning for my team, we have a big conference and not fair to have my team work 12 hours.

I can call and speak with you both tonight, can we consider Saturday 2pm or Sunday am instead?...Cheers, Brian

Brian, originally I didn't think I'd be available on Sunday, but it turns out I will be available. I'd prefer Sunday morning over Saturday afternoon (keeping in mind there's a club meeting later in the day on Saturday).

Check with Gary H and see what works.

Sunday at 9:00 is Ok

Gary

Thanks Gary...see you both Sunday

Brian