I need some advice
Printed From: West Coast Fieros
Category: Technical Topics Forum
Forum Name: Technical Questions and Discussions
Forum Description: Got a technical question about your fiero? ask it here.
URL: http://www.westcoastfieros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=492
Printed Date: 22 November 2024 at 11:18pm
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Topic: I need some advice
Posted By: Matt
Subject: I need some advice
Date Posted: 06 March 2008 at 8:21pm
I had to tow my car home today.  This is what happened / is happening 1. The engine bay got wet 2. The Service Engine light came on, shortly there after the car stalled. 3. I got the car running but it was running very rough. 4. The car stalled again and I turned it over probably flooding it 5. I left the car for 12 hours. 6. The car turns over and back fires 7. I pulled all the plugs and they were wet, but firing when grounded out. 8. I heated the plugs up and turned over the car with out any plugs in it and disconnected the tbi so that I wasn't dumping gas in, in hopes to dry it out a bit 9. The car now turns over and then back fires drawing alot of juice off the battery as it does 10. The back fire is a little pop every 4 rotations of the engine I tried to check the distributor, but the driver side screw is rusted and rounded, so I'm not sure how I'm going to get it off. Once I do, I was thinking of re-placing the rotor/cap and wires. The car also has a bad habit of running rough (for about 10km's) after a heavy rain if it hasn't been running for 2 days or more I'm also going to check the diagnostic sequence to see what the error code is. Any other suggestions? ------------- I wanna go fast. |
Replies:
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 06 March 2008 at 9:20pm
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Sounds like you got water under the cap, and it's shorting from cyl to cyl. Even high humidity can do that. Once it's mis-fired even once, the cap is pretty much toast, as it leaves a carbon trail which then makes it easier to do it again, ad naseum. |
Posted By: Matt
Date Posted: 06 March 2008 at 9:44pm
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That explains the back firing but does that explain the check engine light shortly after the engine bay got wet?
------------- I wanna go fast. |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 07 March 2008 at 5:36am
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Have to run a scan tool over it to pull the codes. |
Posted By: Matt
Date Posted: 07 March 2008 at 9:36am
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Really? My Haynes book said, "The CCC system has a built-in diagnostic feature which indicates a problem by flashing a Service Engine Soon light on the instrument panel. To retrieve this information from the ECM memory, you must use a short jumper wire to ground a diagnostic terminal." I have the red Haynes book 79008 (1232) this information is on pg. 158, chapter 6 Emissions control systems. ------------- I wanna go fast. |
Posted By: 88FieroGT
Date Posted: 07 March 2008 at 3:21pm
| http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes - http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes This might help with the codes and checking them with a jumper. I just used a coated paperclip and stripped the ends. |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 07 March 2008 at 5:51pm
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Heh, ok - yeah, you CAN paperclip it and get the stored code numbers - but you can't read the actual values of anything. It'll at least lead you in the right direction - so, pull the codes, and we'll go from there. |
Posted By: Matt
Date Posted: 07 March 2008 at 6:18pm
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I thought I had posted this already but.... I got the distributor cap off this afternoon only to uncover carbon hanging from the cap terminals and rust on everything else! Starting from the module and working up there is a coil. (which had rust on it) and then some other sort of spring loaded piece of metal (which was all rusted) and then the rotor (which looked scorned). I blew some compressed air at it all and then silicon lube'd it and then blew off the excess. I bought a new cap and rotor but I can't seem to get the old rotor off. Is there a trick to it? I put the new cap on just to see if it works and the car started right up. Although the Service light is still on. I havn't pulled the codes yet but I'll let you know what they are once I do. I have two questions 1. How does one get the rotor off? 2. Would it really be that beneficial to replace the wires if they're working? ------------- I wanna go fast. |
Posted By: Dr.Fiero
Date Posted: 07 March 2008 at 6:25pm
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From the horrid state of the rest of it all - I'd say replace the wires. They should be changed out every 4-5 years anyhow just as a PM type thing. Coolant every 2 years as well since we're on the subject. ;) Anyhow, as for getting the old one off - it's dead anyhow - KILL IT!! Just grab the thing with some vice grips and rip/smash it off. Usually by the time you grab it REALLY hard with the grips, the plastic will just shatter anyhow (wear goggles!). And when I say smash it... ummm.. no hitting the thing with a hammer - you need the shaft to survive! I'm betting you're on the track for a new pickup coil as well too BTW. Once things get that bad in there, it's just a matter of time before it packs it in as well. |
Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 11 March 2008 at 10:58am
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Sounds like you are on the right track with the dist, but if you continue to get hesitation/stumble when very wet, check your belt tensions. With a weak battery and belt slippage I'd get a loss of voltage due to the altenator losing input power. The engine would hesitate due to a loss in spark energy. Sometimes there was a coincident belt squeak, and if my ligts were on they would dim as well. Fix is obvious...new battery, correct tension on the belts.
Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: Capt Fiero
Date Posted: 17 March 2008 at 9:32am
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I am so tempted to start going through my cars with a can of contact cleaner and simply unplug every connector one by one, spray it out really well and snap it back together. As our cars age, I am wonder if the simple act of unplugging and plugging in a connector might solve a few problems.
Aside from WD-40 what are other good contact cleaners. CRC use to make a good one, any suggestions on other ones, and where to buy them, how much does a can cost. ------------- Capt Fiero 88 Fiero GT 5spd V6 Eight Fifty Seven GT V8 5spd. |
Posted By: Matt
Date Posted: 17 March 2008 at 11:11am
|
Well I busted apart the old rotor and put the new one on and the car is
running great! It used to be very lurchy at low rpm's. And there was no
chance that I'd ever be able to start in 2nd gear from a slow roll, but
now the car is MUCH more enjoyable to drive. I also picked up some
ignition wire coating from CT and I havn't had any problems with loss
of power in humidity or rain. Once I put it all back together and fired it up, the Check Engine light went out. Thanks for all the help.
I don't like WD-40 because it's VERY dry. I use liquid silicon because I find it lasts longer, does not attract as much dirt build up and I find it penetrates better. Walmart, Canadian Tire all stock it and it's about the same price as WD-40. ------------- I wanna go fast. |
Capt Fiero wrote:Posted By: CFoss
Date Posted: 17 March 2008 at 3:22pm
|
Do NOT use WD-40. It's about as good in the long term at electrical stuff as it is at lubricating.
If you're in Burnaby, go to Active Electronics, on Boundary (NW corner) and 1st...they have proper chemical stuff there. (Tech in a can!).
Chay ------------- 86 SE 3.4 |
Posted By: Borteep
Date Posted: 18 March 2008 at 5:46am
| I use DeOxit for cleaning up controls on my old stereo gear. It ought to work for car electrical as well. |