3.5L LX9 Swap into ’86 2M6 4 speed

Looks like it's in nice shape for $700. Good deal I think.

Welcome to the group.

Dawg

Minor update for today, I just took a wire wheel attachment
for my drill and cleaned up the aluminium parts a bit, then
moved the tensioner and swapped its pulley with the idler
below the water pump.

CFoss wrote: bcampbell, where are you at? On the island somewhere? I was going to help nfswift with his swap (Electronics side) but then he moved on to other things.If you're looking at the 88 flywheel for the neutral balance, keep in mind you can just get the wieght on a pre 88 flywheel machined off and it's just as good. I did this for my 3.4 swap.It's 1/2 hr of work and $50. (Actually the guy charged me $25 cash and I gave him $40 and said thanks for doing it, it was his day off).Chay

Ya I live in Victoria and the car/engine is in Cowichan
Bay. As for the flywheel, I can get a brand new one in
the US for $55 so it's not really much more than re-using
the imbalanced one. Plus I can get most of the other
parts I need new there and I'll most likely also buy new
motor/trans mounts ($10 ea, haven't priced them out
here).

Capt Fiero wrote: Please don't use stock mounts.......      Do yourself a HUGE favor and order a set of dickman trans mounts. It will save you a TON of grief later on.

Why would stock mounts be inadequate? Wouldn't the stock
G6 use rubber mounts anyways? As long as the mounts are
new, I didn't think it would be a huge deal. Obviously,
I'll need to fabricate a dog bone mount in addition to
the three stock mounts.

Edit: It looks like rodney's transmission mounts use a
standard polyurethane GM transmission mount. I happen to
have one of these leftover from my 89 Firebird project.
How much work would it be to make use of it?

Capt Fiero wrote: The Stock Rubber G6 would have been stronger.  If you can use G6 mounts great.  However the stock rubber Fiero trans mounts IMHO are Junk.  Granted my V8 makes 300+lbs of torque, but the fact that I could put a new set of stock rubber trans mounts in, take it out to the street pop the clutch ONCE, and bust a Lordco Anchor mount, I stopped using stock mounts.  If I could have used the Cadillac rubber mounts I would have been fine, but the Fiero mounts just can't handle the abuse of an engine swap.  Even if you don't drive it hard all the time, if you plan to take it to the road course occasional, a good set of aftermarket mounts will give you a great deal of piece of mind.

Ok thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I can't really afford to spend
$150+ on mounts right now so that will have to wait for the time being. I
won't drive the car hard just to be on the safe side until if get some
better mounts.

I have the stuff...prom burner/reader and ostrich ii for tuning, and tunerproRT of course. You'd need a G2 (I think) adapter from moates if you want to borrow it and do it yourself.

What code were you thinking of running in the 7730?

My wideband 02/logger got destroyed though. I have to get a new one!


As far as the reg goes, I've always wondered about the function of that beast. One way to look at it as the load increases it increases the psi to the injectors to help deliver more fuel. But hey, why not just deliver the fuel at a high pressure all the time and cut down the injector pulse width?

My hypothesis is that is has more to do with lowering pressure at idle to better deliver smaller quantities of fuel at low injector pulse widths for emissions.

My guess is that a solid 58 psi will be fine to tune with. You just have to make sure that psi won't overwhelm the injectors, but they are a new type so I'd guess them to be ok at that psi.

As you are creating a map anyway, the regulator can be taken into account with the map.

Other will hopefully chime in with more knowledge.


Chay

So today I got some basics done, pulled off the upper
plenum and throttle body, pulled out the fuel injectors,
took a look at the spark plugs, transferred the oil
filter adapter and pressure sender from the 2.8, and de-
loomed and labelled the 2.8 harness.

After pulling off the upper plenum and the fuel rail I
cleaned up the lower intake a bit as it had dirt and oil
on it. Taking a look at the injectors, they are in great
shape, and I'm having second thoughts about needing to
have them tested. I was expecting to find some dirty or
rusty injectors from sitting so long disconnected from a
fuel system, but appearance wise they are fine.





What do you guys think? Get them tested or not?

I removed the stock 3500 oil filter mount as I have read
it interferes with the Fiero cradle, and took the spin-on
adapter on the 2.8 and installed it on the 3500. I used
a 3/8 Allen socket to remove/install it; I don't think it
was exactly the right size but it's close enough and
that's the only allen socket I have that's nearly big
enough.



As for the oil pressure sender, I'm not exactly sure if I
put it where it's supposed to go, but I saw a plug near
where the oil filter mounts and found that the 2.8's oil
pressure sender threads right in in place of the plug.
Hopefully I got that right :).



I also modified the front engine mount to clear the new
oil pan and test-installed the CPS mount bolted over the
motor mount. So far so good.




I then took a peek into one of the valve covers through
the oil fill cap and checked out the spark plugs that
were in the engine (#1-#6 left to right in the picture).




And then on to wiring. I'm thinking I'll try to use the
whole 3500 injector harness instead of grafting the
individual plugs onto the 2.8 harness. The engine came
with a nearly complete harness so I have the other side
of the connector that plugs in. The harness also has a
plug for the new MAP sensor on it (in addition to the cam
position sensor and CTS). If going this route I will
change the pigtail for the CTS to a 3-wire sensor.

Question: If I switch to a 3 wire sensor, does that mean
I have no wire for the dash temp warning light? The
2.8's gauge sender is a 2-wire while some other early V6s
seem to have just a 1-wire sender. I'm thinking with the
2-wire sender, one wire is for the temp gauge and one is
for the warning light, am I correct? If that's true, I
can probably just wire in a 3-wire sensor and forget
about the warning light.

Finally I labelled and deloomed the 2.8 engine harness in
preparation to be run neatly on the new engine. In the
process I also discovered a problem area in the old
harness where I'm assuming the harness was rubbing on the
alternator belt and it completely cut through the fan
switch wire, cut through the insulation on an alt pigtail
wire, and cut through the insulation on a fuel injector
harness wire. I'll be splicing in new wires to replace
those three (fan switch will become knock sensor wire
anyway). Anyone know if I'll need a new pigtail for my
alternator (I'll probably be getting one off a 3400).

I don't think there is a Canadian business that sells them, but I don't really know. I've never seen it.

$33 is really excessive for a small super light part. What form of shipping did you choose? I use usps, and slow is good for me which usually makes it cheaper.  Maybe phone those guys and see what they have to say.

You can't use blm's exclusively. You can use them in closed loop if you want, but not in the power (fuel enrich) areas. In these areas the coorect a/f ratio is too low for the narrowband o2 to measure, and therefore blm's are not updated.

You can borrow my ostrich no problem. I have to tune my own ride what I finally get it ready, but it's a 3rd car so I'm pretty flexible.

One sugestion, you could use $59 (Sy/ty updated code) which is pretty easy to tune and has all the stuff for forced induction should you choose that route later. You would have to grab a 3bar map sensor. You are going DIS right? I suspect you have no choice with the intake. I'm pretty sure they have the settings available to do it.

Check out code59.org.

It's what I'm tuning with for the turbo, so I'm totally biased.


Chay

I cna't see any reason why it wouldn't work.You may have to add sensors though (cam and or crank).

It seems like the way to go for custom programming is efi live, or hp tuners.


Chay

I think it might be worth it if you can find an obdii code that runs lean burn/wideband 02 for the extra fuel economy. Also, I think the logging output is vastly improved with obdii.

SFI doesn't do you any good except for a cleaner idle. Big deal.

Chay