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2.5 l fuel injector problem

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Dr.Fiero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 March 2010 at 9:11pm
And...  the AKYN1234?  You missed where I said it would look LIKE.  I ws just giving an example of the format.

ACMH9544 IS the CORRECT PROM for an 87-88 5spd Fiero.

--------------------

Pull the dash.  Change the bulb.

There's no point in going on here with that not being done (assuming you have no real diagnostic scan tool....).

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Rob N. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob N. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2010 at 7:42pm

Hi again,

ok, I actually managed to remove the rear inst clusted housing! & yes, they are easy to get at.

checked all the bulbs & had 1 dud in the tac.

Grounded the brown wire /white stripe..nothing.

It seems like most of your meeting fall on an event day of my medieval club (SCA). So I've found it tough over the last 2 years to get to one.

Thanks , Rob

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Dr.Fiero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2010 at 9:43pm
I have to ask, but...  when you grounded the wire, the key WAS on, right?

Find the pink/black wire on the back of the dash.  It should have battery voltage (herein referred to as B+) at it when the key is on.

If you don't, and you really did replace the "Gages" fuse (whatever - that's how GM spelled it!!)...  I'll have you go to the C500 connector by the battery.  Look for the two lug terminal block.  Fairly firmly tug on each fusable link and see if any of them collapse.  They CAN look OK, and be faulted in the sleeve.  I stranded MYSELF getting fooled by that one (once...).

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Rob N. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob N. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2010 at 7:30pm

Hi I'm back..

OK I found a pink/black wire on the back of the dash and with the key in the on position it reads 12.85 v

Yes, when I grounded the wire the key was on.

I tugged on the fuseable links, but i had checked their continuity with the ohm meter and they were ok. Would it be better not to keep those fuseable links?

next?   

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob N. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 March 2010 at 7:53pm

Update!! after all that yanking on the fuseable links, I tried the key on , and this time i got an engine check light!  so I tried to turn the engine over and I think the injector is sort of working as it back fired a few times & I could see fuel in the throtle body, no fray mind you. 

Killed the battery again. seems slow turning over even with a charged bat.

Also, every wireing dirgram for the High voltage ignition has the #2 & # wires reversed? the diagram your site is reveresd too? The poles are numberd and I've matched the cyls with it.

Thanks...I'll try and be at your Apr meeting... so you can bat me about for a while.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2010 at 6:24am
Well, might be onto something with the links being bad.

You might as well pull the ground wire off, clean the lug, and bolt it goes to on the engine.  Even if it's not f'd now, it's just 'a good idea'.

If the battery voltage drops much below 10 volts, the ECM will shut down - so put a meter on it while you're cranking and make sure it's not dropping too low or all of this is for naught.  Probably want to jump it while cranking if your battery is 'suspect'.

What do you mean 'wires reversed'?  Do you mean the high tension leads?
If you're getting backfiring through the throttle body - you've probably got wires reversed!  You're trying to fire on an intake stroke.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob N. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2010 at 8:41am

ok, I'll pull the ground wire off, clean the lug, and bolt it goes to on the engine. 

should I replace the fuseable links or just get rid of them?

if the starter is drawing the voltage down below 10 volts , where would I measure it on this car? I would normaly measure the draw at the battery.

If you hace the chlton book p 2-9 4 cyl DIS it list from the top down on th coils 2 3 4 1

p 3-22, they are listed 3 2 4 1

My ciols have inkek marked as 3 2 4 1

so which is right?  i

I tried reversing 2 &3 and it back fires both ways  ?

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2010 at 8:55am
If the link(s) are bad - replace them with a new correctly sized one, or put an inline in it's place.  But don't delete them altogether.

Coils should be labeled 1&4, 2&3.  Water pump end is #1.
The wires on EACH coil pack can be flipped either way.  They both fire at the same time anyhow (it's just less confusing if you do them as marked).

If you are dropping too low, and the ECM is shutting down, you could still get weird mis-fires.  Measure voltage at the battery as you're cranking.  All voltages should be equal at any point in the circuit.  If there's ever any variation, you have a faulty connection somewhere inbetween the two measured points.

See those two studs near the battery?  10mm & 11mm nuts.  While you're there, you might want to pull 'em, clean 'em, replace 'em.  They can get wet and corroded since they're right under the louver.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob N. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2010 at 10:24am

Ok, I prefer inline ones that I can check. do you know what the apmerage should be?

Battery is on charge again it was new last year.

OK on the 2 & 3 I didn't know they worked either way.

I'll clean the grounds, and the two studs near the battery

Is there an easy way to get the old fuel out? It must be 1- 2 years old by now.

 

 

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 March 2010 at 1:22pm

Originally posted by Rob N. Rob N. wrote:

Is there an easy way to get the old fuel out? It must be 1- 2 years old by now.

I ran my '84 on gas which had been sitting in its tank for five years, although I did also add a full jerry can of gas to the tank.

Before I actually ran the engine, I disconnected both fuel lines at the TB and spliced them together with a short piece of clear hose clamped in place. Then I jumpered the fuel pump terminal in the ALDL connector on the console and watched the fuel circulate in the clear hose to make sure there wasn't weird looking stuff (chunks of rust, frogs, etc) being pumped through the system. Basically I was checking to make sure the fuel filter was doing its job. (I didn't want to replace the fuel filter with a new one until after the old filter had grabbed any/all particles of crud floating around in the tank.)

If you're concerned about using the fuel in your tank because of possible water contamination for example, jumper the fuel pump terminal and simply aim the disconnected fuel supply hose into a gas can. Disconnect the power to the terminal as soon as you see the supply of gas start to slow down. You don't wish to run the fuel pump dry.

If you do end up with a gas can of mixed water and gas, the gasoline will float on top of the water. If you're careful, you can pour the gas out into a second container and then add it back to your gas tank (or use it in your lawnmower).

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 March 2010 at 9:58am
Originally posted by Rob N. Rob N. wrote:

Ok, I prefer inline ones that I can check. do you know what the apmerage should be?


Bit of a loaded question, as they don't even list the ampacity in the manual - only the diameter of the wire.

That being said...  THIS chart shows the amperage of a given size wire.

The links are listed in sizes (metric) in the manual, and by color.
If you want to take a chance, you can go by this chart and replace them with fuses.  Or just get the correct color one, and solder them back in place.

Remember that they can LOOK like they're alive, but 1/2 the strands can be rotted away.  So what used to be able to pass 'x' current can now only pass 'x/2' current.







If you see "5" in the drawing...  it's probably "0.5" BTW.  There are no 5mm (that's almost 1/4"!) diameter wires in the main harness. 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob N. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 March 2010 at 9:09pm

tahank you good Doctor. I think I'll replace with correct fuseable links.. Dealer or lordco?

I'll check the bat voltage cranking it over, then I'll try cranking it over again with a battery booster and see what happens.

Thanks for the chart it looks much simpler then the one in the oh manual.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob N. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2010 at 8:08pm

Hi, I tried the battery booster and when cranking it over the volts dropped to 10.25.Could the starter be drawing the amps/volts and starving the ecm?

on your wireing diagram, there is a fuseable link between the starter and the cold start switch /injector/ecm why the thin dashed line? what does it mean?

Asso when you use a jumper wire between the A & B terminals on the ALDL connector to count the flashes on the engine check lite... are the shift light and the rad fan suppose to go on?

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2010 at 9:00pm
10.25V (cranking) is fine.

To the left is V6, to the right L4.

As for jumping the ALDL...  I'm not sure!  It's been too long since I've done anything with a duke.
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