Engine swap problems

I have some problems that are bothering me...
these problems are not really hindering the engine and
how it runs but i want to check them out... i have a
couple
Its a 4.9 swap with stock computer with rockcrawl chip
and a cam and slightly bigger valve train. Engine sat for
7 years!

Problem 1: When the car has been rinning for about a
couple of mins the crank case breather starts smoking
(steaming?) and it is enough to worry me, i know what it
is, but should it be doing it a lot with an engine that
sat for a long time? Or are my rings bad?

Problem 2: There is a very small amount of black smoke
out the back, running rich is my though, but why?? Could
the chip be programed to increase air fuel ratio for the
cam? The smoke is barely enough to worry but still...

Problem 3: When the car has been running for a short
time, and i stand close to the engine (not really near
exhaust) my eyes burn severely. There is some smoke
(white) coming
from the engine compartment. I have tried to trace this
smoke but its like its coming out of no where. It comes
up the two sides of the engine (bank 1 and 2) but is not
under the exhaust manifolds and there is no type of fluid
anywhere near them. The manifolds were painted and had
new gaskets, is that whats burning?

Problem 4: May be a minor one but when i jump the car
with another one to start it, no mater what kind of car,
i have to let it charge for 5 mins before trying to
start. Do i just have a starter that takes a ton of
energy to turn? Or a loop in the circuit?

Problem 5: CLUTCH!! Ive bled the clutch 100 times and the
air doesnt want to leave. Or the clutch is stuck or
something? I know they can get stuck, my dads did... but
his is a liquid filled trany/bellhousing so the clutch is
in fluid. Could my be stuck, if so how the heck do i
unstick it?

Thanks for sticking with me! I am looking for short
simple answers mostly (unless it calls for a big one),
thats why i have so many questions in one posting. Any
help WILL HELP. Answer one or all... or none i dont care
just give me your input please.

I'm reading your list and I'm getting the impression you're running WAY too rich.  This will wash the cylinder walls and cause ring damage over time.  It could in severe cases push fuel fumes into the crank case and sting your eyes after leaving the breather.

I have seen this many times way back in the old days while playing around with jets in race engines.

You definitely have blow by issues.  Blow by is usually worse when the engine is cold.  After warm up things are tighter and less prone to leaking.

If my theory is true you need to get this dealt with.  You might have already contaminated your oil.

The Dawg

Problem #1...is the blowby white or dark. If it's rings, my experience has been that it will be black/oily. If it's white...could be condensed water (No problem, just takes time to clear) or coolant leaking internally somewhere (Longshot, but possible). Give it time and see if it changes.

 

Problem #2. Likely rich idle, I agree. If it does this when worm (worm? warm), you might look into it further. When cold, this is somewhat expected. Check your plugs for carbon build up at your first oil change. If none, forget about it.

 

P3: Sounds like paint. Not a great smell.

 

P4: Do you men that you need to leave two batteries connected for 5 minute before it will start? If so, this is indicitive of a very weak battery. What happens is that the weak one in your car will consume the available current from the jump battery, and the car will therefore not start due to lack of supply. After time the car battery will charge somewhat, allowing the charge battery to turn the engine over.

 

Do not continue this situation. The excessive chaerge current into the weak battery is similar to a short circuit and will cause a large buildup of heat, which could lead to explosion. Replace the battery, or just use your 'jump' battery by itself.

 

P5: Cluthes hydraulics are murder on these cars. Remove the slave. Pop off the rubber end plug, push in the plunger and look for corosion in the cylinder bore. If any, you need a new slave. There is a special bleed procedure as well. Park on an incline, crack the bleeder. Wait for pure fluid to run out. Then , with the bleeder open, vice grip the push rod and push it back into the cylinder. Fluid WILL squirt out. SLOWLY allow the push rod to slide back out. Maintain positive flow out of the bleeder. When the rod is fully out, close the bleeder. This will purge and air bubbles trapped in the cylinder.

On the master end, pull the rubber on the pushrod and look for fluid. If any, replace the master.

I didn't get a good clutch until I replaced the master and slave. Just the way it goes.

 

 

Thank you so much!! Ok ill address your comments and
questions now...

Problem 1: the blow by is white... and seems to only exit
the bank close to the trunk.

Problem 2: I am running a bosch o2 sensor so i will try a
delco one, also i retarded the timing (i think, i turned
it counterclock wise) and the black smoke almost completely went away.

Problem 3: I guess im settling that its paint burning off

Problem 4: Battery light in alternator circut... yes but
i need to confirm i did it right, where exactly does the
little red wire go?

Problem 5: My master is leaking slightly but it always
has, ever since i bought the car... maybe 3 drops from
all the bleeding. Im planning on upgrading the master
soon... should i just do that now?


Other comments to add...
-when the car has been on and warmed up (maybe 5 mins
after the blow by starts a lot) i turn off the car and it
just doesnt want to start right up again...
-Clutch- when bled the pedal feels light the first half
but completely normal the second half
-would you guys recommend just running it for a long time
like 30 mins?
-check engine light on but the cods wont flash... i jump
a and b but the light stays lit. someone told me, with a
chipped ecm the light wont go off, you just have to check
for codes... i dont really believed that

I want these problems cleaned up, and thank you so much
for the time! If you need any clarification i can just
shoot a video and post it really easy.

I have not done a compression test. And describing the
problem... when i turn it off and try to start it again
soon it will turn over and fire a lot but then stop just
before it would start and then i stopped trying and came
here. And for the timing, i did not time it with a light,
just by idle and what felt the best while reving, the
timming is way off from stock anyway because the cam.
right?

Ok i guess ill time it now and see where that gets me. And
yeah the check engine light thing i thought BS too, any
thoughts?

You said the expelled gasses are white, do they smell somewhat sweet? If so, check your coolant levels - you may have a coolant leak on top of everything else...

Ok buddy....first things first.  Pull ALL your spark plugs out and do a compression test.  If you have something funky going on this will show it.  Do each cylinder dry and then put 2 or 3 squirts of engine oil in the hole and test it again.  Mark all this down and get back to us.

I agree, sounds bad but lets try and figure out how bad.  Your oil could be so contaminated with fuel by now that it's too thin to do it's job.  Lifters could be malfunctioning and so on.

Compression values should tell us if you need to put her away for the winter.

The Dawg.

For the pcv system, i have a filter on one valve cover and
a pcv valve to a filter on the other... is this wrong?
My oil is not milky but looks a little lighter than the
usual dark brown used oil look and is feels thinner. And i
dont have a coolant line to the throttle body.

So i really dont know what to do at this point, Should i do
a compression test and then start tearing it down? or
should I just change the oil, o2 sensor, and see what
happens?
I have noticed a somewhat thick layer of pure black oily
feeling stuff under the throttle body blades that wasnt
there before. Also i did a burn test on a sample of the oil
thats in there and it did not really catch on fire, but it
did pop and crackle a bit with some flames, i did the test
to normal oil (thinking the dirt on the ground was
lighting) and no flames, and i did it sample of coolant and
it did not burn, so does that confirm gas in my oil?