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MOTIVE Brake & Clutch Bleeding System

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Bassman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: MOTIVE Brake & Clutch Bleeding System
    Posted: 11 August 2010 at 9:14am

Well, I gave in and ordered one...so if anyone in the club has a need for a brake and/or clutch bleeding unit, let me know...I picked up this one with the catch bottle, we can do a tech day:)...and since my Fiero is done except the clutch with the ATE Super Blue Dot 4, we can do my GA GT and get rid of the stock Dot 3 whioch I cannot remember when or if it has been changed...Cheers

http://store.motiveproducts.com/american-bleeder-kit--0252-p 15.aspx

Brian (Bassman)

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 August 2010 at 9:18am

Sweet!

Now we just need to source a bulk container of that neat blue stuff.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2010 at 7:28am
Time to steal brake fluid from work... Kidding! I wouldn't mind doing a flush some day. As anyone who's seen Gretchin's front end can attest, well... The fluids are black.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2010 at 6:20pm

Or see if you can get cost, I would want the Motul, that's my next upgrade.

I will say, after today being my second track event since my rebuild and Superblue fluid...my brakes felt great, stinky but great...pedal preassure was strong, started to fade around 3rd lap but eased off on brakes and more controlled throttle (taught how to save brakes today and had a chance to practise this), the Ate Superblue is a economical upgrade and safety upgrade

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2010 at 6:49pm
I don't suppose any makes seals for the Fiero capable of handling silicon, do they? DOT V isn't outrageously expensive (Although it would require replacing ALL the brake fluid, as it doesn't play well with 3/4/5.1) and is tied for highest boiling point (With 5.1, which is outrageously expensive) of all fluids. Seeing as how none of our cars have ABS, our only concern would be the silicon eating seals.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2010 at 6:58pm
Note sure what your reading, but did you not catch Austin's findings about Dot 5 breaking down in heat faster...I want to flush and get rid of it in my clutch line, brakes with Motul:)
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Romeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2010 at 10:24pm
No, I hadn't heard about that, but given that it's dry (Not infected with water vapour) is almost a full hundred-fifty degrees higher than DOT3, and around eighty more than DOT4, now you've piqued my curiousity. Wouldn't mind reading that myself, if you still happen to have a link, per chance.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2010 at 8:36am

Read up here...the main issue is compatrability, and would you EVER hit those temps to require Dot 5...from my experience, no.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

Brian (Bassman)

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 3:42pm

Brian kindly dropped off his brand new brake bleeder at my place yesterday so that I could pressure bleed my brake and hydraulic systems before the autocross on Sunday.

To make a long story short, I can't get it to work properly. There's a supplied plate/seal that sits on the top of the brake fluid reservoir that's supposed to be held down air tight by four wing nuts/bolts and two chains that wrap around the bottom of the master brake cylinder.

I've cranked them all down pretty good and as soon as I build up any pressure (3-4 lbs) with the supplied pump, it hisses in one place or another somewhere around the "seal". To use this bleeder, it's supposed to be pressurized up to around 12 lbs.

I'm hesitant to really crank down on the wing nuts as I don't wish to collapse my plastic reservoir!

I even tried to use a modified factory rubber seal along with this plate while it was on the reservoir, but the rubber seal won't sit properly unless the factory "cap" is also used. (The factory cap sort of sits in the seal and pushes it out towards the edge.)

Any advice from anyone who may have used one of these devices?

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 4:38pm
I've noticed with mine that you need to try and center the "cap" on the plastic reservoir or it tends to rock slightly.

My bleeder is a huge industrial one but it's rather old and the rubber is less soft then it was years ago.  So I have to be extra precise.

Try that and try to gauge the amount of pressure applied between each chain tightener.  Make them even.

Also, you can do a good bleed with very little pressure.  It just takes more time.  So push the pressure as high as you can and see if the fluid comes out at the other end.

This BTW is one of the BEST things you can do to your brakes.  That being flushing everything out every year or so.

DG
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 4:48pm
Hmm, hope it works out...otherwise back it goes, but everyone knows
how hard that is with US orders.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 5:00pm

Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

I've noticed with mine that you need to try and center the "cap" on the plastic reservoir or it tends to rock slightly.

Good advice Damien, but this particular supplied plate is just barely large enough to cover our Fiero brake fluid reservoirs. There is no room for side to side movement at all, and only about a quarter inch front to back.

Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

Try that and try to gauge the amount of pressure applied between each chain tightener.  Make them even.

That's the key right there.

It's difficult to explain, but the bolt/wing nut chain assemblies are rather poorly designed. When tightened up the bolts end up being on weird angles and sort of get jammed in the slots in the plastic lid/plate that's supposed to be tightened down. This no doubt results in uneven torque being applied to the four "corners", and this then results in a poor seal.

With that in mind, I might see if I can put something under the master cylinder (as wide as the plate) so that the chains would be coming straight up after wrapping under it. Like this... U ...more so than this... V ...if that makes any sense! 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 6:23pm

I cut out a piece of plywood basically the same size as the top of the reservoir to go under the master cylinder. This allows the chains/bolts to be sitting straight up and down. I've got the wing nuts cranked pretty tight, but the fricken thing will still only hold 4 lbs of pressure before it hisses and leaks. I'm starting to lose my patience as I've been baking in the open sun for hours fiddling with this thing.

I just don't think the rubber pad on the underside of the plate is soft/pliable enough to fit snugly/tightly enough on the top of the Fiero's plastic reservoir. 

I don't want to try tightening these wing nuts anymore. Something is bound to break if I do.

I'll try bleeding with 4 lbs of pressure. It'll be better than gravity bleeding, but not by much.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dr.Fiero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 6:51pm
There's one of those damn caps included in MY brake bleeder as well.  I've never, ever gotten it to seal once in all these years (why I keep even trying is beyond me!).

I'm pretty sure they were for use on the old style oval master cylinder that was all cast (one piece).  You'd be able to crank THAT sum'bitch down so tight it'd never leak.

Maybe if you could get a sheet of flat rubber that's the same as an inner tube, and make a 'patch' over the whole existing rubber do-da.
Pond liner for example.  Comes in rolls, and it's totally flat.  I've got some here actually - was going to use it on the CNC machine.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 9:56pm
My bleeder has a good setup.  The "chain" goes from one end of a spreader bar, down under and to the other end of said bar.  The middle of the bar has a threaded rod that bears down in the middle of the cap.  So the pull is always straight up.  Works great as long as it's centered.

Brian, you might need to rig up thumb screws on both sides instead of one.  If the cap is leaking on one side, you simply loosen the screws on the good side just a bit and tighten the one on the leaky side a little more.  Eventually, it would seal perfectly.

I bet it would be easy to rig up too.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 10:17pm

Originally posted by Dr.Fiero Dr.Fiero wrote:

I'm pretty sure they were for use on the old style oval master cylinder that was all cast (one piece).  You'd be able to crank THAT sum'bitch down so tight it'd never leak.

Bingo, that's no doubt what it was designed for. Cranking that sucker down on a cast iron reservoir would probably be fine. On a plastic reservoir, not a chance.

Originally posted by Dawg Dawg wrote:

...you might need to rig up thumb screws on both sides instead of one. 

If you look at that image I posted earlier you'll see that there are four wing nuts/bolts - two on each side. It's no good. It leaks on the ends.

Brian came over so he could see what I was dealing with. There's no way that plate (as supplied) is ever going to seal properly on a plastic reservoir. John's idea of using another piece of softer rubber is actually something that Brian and I were discussing as an option while he was here.

However, it would be best to simply have a plate supplied that seals and works as advertised.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 10:41pm
Very impressed, I actually had a reply from my contact at Motive via iPhone when I got home...I sent him the content of this thread to read and see if we can come up with a solution...very impressed and hope this can be resolved...the clutch round adapter concerns me now also.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 10:55pm

Look what I found on the site:

 
 
10) It's hard to get the 1105 Rectangular Adapter to seal. Is there some other way to get it to seal than using
the chains?
We got the following tip from users that work on their classic Corvettes. We like the tip so much we're
passing it on to you. Instead of using the chains cut a piece of 2x4 or some metal bar stock in the same length as the
1105 adapter. Lay the 2x4 or bar stock onto the top of the adapter lengthwise and then use a c-clamp to hold the
adpater in place. It works great and is much faster to use than the chains.

Image and details located at bottom of this page:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/FAQ.html



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Post Options Post Options   Quote Patrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2010 at 11:21pm
Originally posted by Bassman Bassman wrote:

Look what I found on the site...

Brian, it's difficult to see it in that picture, but I suspect that's the old style one piece cast iron reservoir/master cylinder. Sure, clamping down on that would work fine, but we'd probably still have the same problem with our plastic reservoirs. By the time we cranked that C-clamp tight enough to seal that hard rubber pad on the plate against our reservoirs, I'm pretty sure we would have cracked or flattened the plastic reservoir.

I'm more convinced than ever that the main problem is with the hard rubber pad. It's just not pliable enough to effectively seal (without a whole lot of force) against a relatively fragile plastic reservoir. 

I'm glad to hear that your contact at Motive appears to be interested in helping to resolve this issue. 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Bassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 September 2010 at 9:34am

Very impressed again to receive a reply this morning...seems I need to arrange with Motive the correct adapters, here's the email content, and off to David's (see you shortly):

Hi Marco,

 

Yes the Fiero has a plastic reservoir, I triple checked based on your application guide to ensure I ordered the right parts/kit, it says bleeder 0105 and adapter 1105, hence why I bought American Bleeder Kit 0252 for our car club so all can use.

 

I also hoped that this kit would have been good for also my 1997 Pontiac Grand AM, so the universal round does not look like it will work on either car, GA seems to need a 1108, uncertain is 1101 will fit the clutch on the Fiero, but at this stage I do not want to open the bag it came in until we confirm details.

 

I don’t believe I should have to pay the upgrade for the 1115, I may not have read the fine print as I should be able to trust your application guide...maybe update this thenJ.   For my purpose Marco, I will take your suggestion on what we should do here especially if we have to ship and exchange items, I certainly has no issues in paying for correct products...please advise.

 

I do thank you for your prompt replies also...Cheers,

 

Brian

 

PS: The whole shipping issues, customs changed the tracking code which neither of us had, so I had to provide a idea of what the box would look like, and the “e” for my last name was missed, so this was not matching up

 

From: motivesupport@gmail.com [mailto:motivesupport@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Motive Products Support
Sent: September 4, 2010 8:54 AM
To: Brian Browne
Subject: Re: Follow up on Order

 

Brian,

 

please see the note here at the bottom of the descriptions.

 

http://store.motiveproducts.com/rectangular-universal-adapte r--1105-p58.aspx

 

http://store.motiveproducts.com/early-american-rectangular-b leeder--0105-p32.aspx

 

The Fiero has a plastic reservoir, correct?   No fix necessary to the 1105 - it's nearly impossible to get it to seal on a plastic reservoir- you just need to buy the correct part.   The issue with the plastic reservoir is reason we made the 1115.  We offer a $15 upgrade to the 1115 for those that have the 1105.

 

Marco

 

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